That makes sense, Doc. Thank you.

I have a 1600 with about the same light bar, no problem with keeping a charge. I don't use a tender. For what it's worth.

I've had the same problem. I recently posted for help and got several good ideas. Since I don't know how to copy the link here for you to simply click, do a search on Difficulty removing the seat and see what ya come up with.

Yeah... I should have used the search function. I'm off to try removing this silly thing, one last time this evening. Such a stupid little thing, but it's driving me nuts.

I almost always have a prob getting my seat loose. I have to switch the key back and forth SEVERAL times while pulling the front of the seat up at the same time. It's VERY tough not to say 'choice' words at that point! I think there's a problem with the cable from the key to the seat locking mech.....
I have the stock seat and a corbin...both have the same problems....
Good luck.

Thanks... I tried again, and no luck. I think I'll call the service dept tomorrow and see if I can bring it in. I'd like the voltage system looked at, too. (Also, it'll give me a chance to browse around the apparel and accessories shop, too!)

Frank,

Once you get your seat to release, you might want to do this (add secondary release.) I haven't had a problem with mine yet, but did it anyway. I can't say where I found this information to be able to attribute it, however:


The seat release that won't. And it's not going to cure itself, by the way. With the seat off, unscrew the two bolts that hold the seat catch and pull it out to where you can see the mechanism and play with it. Notice where the cable runs through the latch. What you're going to do is add another release/pull, either something like picture wire like I did or a wire tie. Attach it to the lever the stock cable pulls on (attachment depends on what you use), run it through the latch parallel to the existing cable and out the left side, where it will stick out from under the seat a little. I used picture hanging cable and tied a loop around the frame, now I just reach down with one finger and pop it. Put the two bolts back in and test to make sure the spring-loaded part moves when you pull on your new release then reinstall the seat. This whole job will take less time than you've probably already spent fighting with it and you'll never have to do that again.

Thanks! I'm definitely going to do this. How silly is it that there must be power to the ignition in order to get the seat catch to release, so that the battery and fuses can be accessed?

You don't need power to release the seat, it's cable operated.

I see... Well, I still think it's a bad design. It shouldn't be this dang hard to get to the battery.