I have a dilemma…
I put a Mikuni HSR on my 04 R*, good thing.
Patrick Racing, where I bought my carb and air cleaner instructed me to leave the TPS installed on the bike to avoid messing with the check engine light, which I did.:
I’ve been reading about the V.O.E.S. and was going to put one on.

Now I’ve bought a Dyna 3000 the instructions for it say “If an aftermarket carburetor without a TPS is used, disconnect the stock TPS. The ignition will select the WOT curve with the TPS disconnected.”

So back to my dilemma. I’m sure someone out there in Road Star land has used an HSR and a Dyna 3000, is it necessary to use a V.O.E.S. with the Dyna 3000?

Thanks
KB

P.S. This is an old picture before the Patrick Racing BAK and HSR.

Hey KB,
I just went through the exact same senario,
04 R*
42mm Mikuni Carb
Barons BAK
Ported maifold
Removed fuel pump
Dyna 3000

The TPS mod (throttle position sensor) works hand in hand with the ignition module and when the spark is fired. The ignition box has 2 curves, closed throttle and wot (wide open throttle). when you go to the 42hsr there is no TPS, so by default the ignition timing is set at WOT even with the Dyna3k. The VOES works as an on/off switch controlled by vacuum (vacuum operated electrical switch) without engine mods, no HC pistons, a 3" voes will do. At idle and low throttle the voes is a short (high vacuum) as throttle increases, vacuum decreases, voes opens, timing goes to wot. The ignition box is looking for a voltage to determine timing. The TPS allows a change in timing aprox every .2 milivolt, so there is a lot of interloping chnages that the tps allows that the voes does not. You will need the TPS from the stock carb, and a brkt and some mods to get it to fit the 42hsr. You can do it yourself as a lot of us have, or you can send the 42 and tps to Ken (Mucker) for 100 bucks he will do the mod, and now I hear Maxair engineering is doing it too. When I went from a VOES to the TPS mod there was a big improvement, going from where you are to a TPS would be a huge difference. Very noticable difference on the low end to aprox mid-throttle.
it will run much better with the TPS mod. I have run the 42hsr in all 3 configurations...VOES, no Voes, and TPS. There is a big difference from Voes to TPS mod, a seat of the pants difference, and will also help with mpg's on the low end. This is some of the info I got Hope it helps it did for me.


Bruzer

Hey Bruzer, glad to hear you got things goin..I have a voes that I put on some months back, seems to work fine, but being the curious type that I am, how did you link up the tps to the carb..I have seen some use gears, but I think a simple linkage would be easier and more adjustable..

Hey Flashback, I should have mentioned you for all your help thanks again, here is a link perfect pictures and lay out for TPS conversion to 42mm carb.
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562849257IwUXNQ?vhost=good-times&start=0 it is clear as water in these pics! alittle work but well worth the effort! curiousity killed the VOES lol Thanks again things running great WoW waiting for #50 pump nozzle to help hesitation but have booked dyno, to have them dial it in for me, hope this info spurs some ideas, and thanks again i am so pumped about the way it rides now.

Ps when you get to the epoxy of tab, I like others used a dremal to cut slot in shaft seemed more logical little stronger

That's some good stuff Bruzer, I think I have found another winter project..Thanks...
BTW, did you try and adjust the start time for your pump? you may not need a new nozzle..

Dont laugh remember Im the Guy that just learned more about carbs in four days... I went back to the link you gave me and I am not sure if I understood it? I adjusted the pump screw in the front of the cables (sping loaded screw?) didnt seem to do anything do you have a start point?
or more direction

Thanks much

from lack of better words, the pump shaft is that long skinny shaft that sticks up verticly out of the carb, there is a plastic nylon cam sort of thingy on the linkage shaft that actuates it. you'll see a screw with a spring on it. that's the start screw. if you watch that mechanism while you twist the trottle, you will see how it works. you want that pump shaft to start being depressed as soon as the linkage shaft starts to move from twisting the throttle. also there is a stop screw on top that is smaller and no spring, it stops the pump actuator, Ive not found it as touchy tho, but I guess if it were adjusted to stop too soon you wouldn't get a good squirt..I wish I had a pic cause I'm not doing to good with the written word..

Being as fimilar as I am with the 42mm perhaps even intamint after all the dirty talk I gave it over the past days, It makes perfect sence. I think I messed with the stop screw thinking what the hell is this here for as i turned it in and out, doesnt seem to do much better take a closer look I guess @%$# I could just Burst out Laughing at myself right now. thanks again I am going to check this again, you Know my head was so full of things I just never put the two together

THATS IT!!! went and checked the boot is binding the rod, throtle pushes it down and it stays down or better yet does not return all the way up, looks like I have some more tinkering (ACC. pump 101) now completed thanks! I guess all I can do is stick around and pass on what was freely given to me

That's great you found it..should be doing real good now..

SMSgt, hope the info here that Bruzer and I worked out can help you, back to your original question. is it necessary to use a V.O.E.S. with the Dyna 3000?
nope, it isn't, but I would disconnect the tps, and leave it on your stock carb until you decide which path to take, voes or tps..with it disconnected, the ignition module will see that it is not there and set the timeing at WOT always, if you leave it hooked up, then be sure it is in the WoT position and cannot be changed by chance. if it get's changed to the idle curve and you don't know it, you could damage the motor...pre ignition or knocking...