Here's a question.

People change the oil before putting it away for the winter. Supposedly because of all the nasties in the oil that will eat the motor over the winter. Alright. Makes sense. BUT. 5. whatever qts in there. Drain maybe 4. something out. Still got a qt give or take of the killer oil in there over the winter. I'm not completely convinced it's really that critical to change it before storage. Anybody have any proof that it really prevents anything besides having to change it in the spring before you ride?

Thanks

I've also heard that oil contains water and acids, and it is not good to leave dirty oil in the bike for a long time. The general consensus is to drain the old oil and replace with new.

Being the lazy * that I am, I tend to leave the oil overwinter. I also start the bike periodically. Yes, I know that's not a good thing but it's another thing that cheers me up on a cold winter night.

OK, here's one for you .....

If you decide to drain the oil 'cause it's full of nasties but you aren't going to start the bike until spring, would you put fresh oil in?

Why?

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
If you decide to drain the oil 'cause it's full of nasties but you aren't going to start the bike until spring, would you put fresh oil in?

Why?

Doc

If I'm reading this right you are asking why put oil in after you drain it if you aren't going to start it. Right? Um...... I...... It's...... Well...... Geeze! I was confused enough before




Never left a motor sitting without oil in it. Is that good for it? <br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2006/11/23 08:34

The water &amp; nasties &amp; acids...is that pertaining to just dino oil, or synthetic as well? If I remember correctly, both Doc &amp; Musky run synth...hell, I think everyone on here runs synth. I just hate to drain $25 or so worth of Mobil 1 synth oil out that has 300 miles on it...pffft...

Guess I'll just have to ride it all winter! (except snow days)

RK

From what I've read (again no proof) dino and syn both suffer from this. So I guess we can throw this question in to the asking for proof mix. I've been running synthetic in my bikes for quite a while and I've never changed oil before winter. I haven't noticed any damage resulting from it. I change my oil when the miles say to change it.

I'd put fresh oil in because sure as shit I'll be wanting to hear the rumble and start the beast up. That's when I'd realize that there wasn't any oil in there. Yeah thats right a major attack of &quot;dumb ass&quot; would be inevitable. Why tempt fate?

Brutha wrote:
I'd put fresh oil in because sure as shit I'll be wanting to hear the rumble and start the beast up. That's when I'd realize that there wasn't any oil in there. Yeah thats right a major attack of &quot;dumb ass&quot; would be inevitable. Why tempt fate?

Yeah. I've visited dumb ass on numerous occasions. If you are going to be starting it over the winter then I would think just leave the old oil in there. What am I missing?

I change oil in all my motors as well as adding sta-bil in the fall and run them for 15 minutes every 2 weeks if they are idle otherwise.....but I ride my bike till it hits 26 degrees... boat and jet ski ???? 26 naaaaaa ....Coug

I don't think you're missing a thing, Musky, I think you've got the right idea, IMHO.

And I've taken the turnoff to Dumbassville more times than I care to admit myself... But that's how we learn, right? That and with the checkbook.

RK

I never really thought that changing the oil before storage was too big a deal as long as the oil was nice and clean yet. The idea of changing to fresh oil before winter storage means that you'd want to run the engine long enough to circulate the fresh oil through the bearings. BUT.... The way I see it, you can cause just as much harm storing for long periods with fresh oil in the engine as having old oil left in it. The OIL is not of great concern here. The biggest and singlemost cause of damage in cold stored engines is CONDENSATION, which is one of the byproducts of combustion. Any engine should be worked moderately and run up to operating temperature long enough to evaporate the moisture:
#1 from the oil and crankcase (moisture left in the oil -even if new oil- combines with naturally occurring sulphur compounds to create sulphuric acids which can eat bearing metals),
#2 from the exhaust system and valve ports,
#3 from the cylinders, (moisture trapped inside the combustion chambers can condense on cold cylider walls and rust leading to serious pitting the walls).
So before you store it for the winter, take her out for a good run, get everything including the transmission and mufflers up to operating temperature,
park it, put a trickle charger on the battery, fill the gas tank and cover the bike. DO NOT start the bike until spring when you can take her out for a good run. Starting the engine for breif periods during cold winter months does nothing but fill everything full of CORROSIVE CONDENSATION due to cold operating temperatures.
&quot;If ya can't ride her, let her sleep!&quot; -StarMyram