Anyone have the Dunlop D404, and how does it stack up against the ME880. I can save $100 on a set of

D404's versus the Metzelers but wonder if it's just a matter of you get what you pay for.

ratl, I didn't balance them. There is dots on the sidewall of the tires, you just put the valvestem between them and you're pretty much good to go. I had mine up to 95 mph the other day and it felt real good to me. A friend of mine used to work a the local dealer and he said that they should be fairly good that way.




D J

D404's last about 6,000 miles for the rear in Texas. I won't buy another one.

Home balancing that I do is to get 2 of my folding chairs face to face, and install brake rotors, pulleys, cush drives, and whatever eles rotates on the axle. Support the axle on each end by a chair seat. I usually let the tire fall to the heavy spot, mark it on top dead center (this will be where you add the counterweight). I usually add an ounce at a time (tape-a-weight) until I can orient the heavy spot at 90 degrees (straight sideways) and the tire will no longer rotate. If you do this, you will achieve a high state of static balance. That being said, after your tire grows a bit (100-300 miles), this balance may not be perfect, but it will be as close as any other to start. Spin balance is no better than static balance on a tire that is not broken in. If you do not wish to use the pulley/cush drive, you can leave it off, but the best balance is achieved by doing all of the rotating mass together. Don't forget to make some kind of orientation mark on the cush drive and pulley, so you don't clock them differently when you re-assemble.

On tape weights, I've never lost one, but some people I know will do the balance work with them, then go to the shop and get the crimp-on weights for the spokes, or rim weights. My SV650 uses a bead at the inboard center of the wheel for balance weights.

Good luck. Only takes about 2 beers per tire (one, if they are home-brewed, in a liter bottle!)