Curious ......

On the top right hand side of the carb there is a large 90 metal elbow with a black 'filter' on the end. Right below is another tube that comes straight out of the carb ... to which most folks have a tube attached. In both cases these 'tubes' vent to the air ... they are not connected to anything.

Correct ???

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
Curious ......

On the top right hand side of the carb there is a large 90 metal elbow with a black 'filter' on the end. Right below is another tube that comes straight out of the carb ... to which most folks have a tube attached. In both cases these 'tubes' vent to the air ... they are not connected to anything.

Correct ???

Doc

On the top left of the carb is an elbow with a short hose and filter that hooks up to nothing. I can't remember if the other vent coming out of the side had a hose that hooked up to the air box or not. My memory (Always shaky) says it did.

It was a question for him not from me.

I guess I should clarify .... MS1700 ... on your bike are both hoses hooked up to anything?

Both hoses should not hook up to anything but vent to the air.

Doc

MS1700, since your bike pukes when you turn on the petcock after start up, I would definatly follow up on Docs suggestion regarding the float bowl needle valve and valve seat.

The fuel pump should not be able to push fuel through the float valve once it's full. Check to make sure they aren't damaged or dirty and that the float is set properly.

Hope it works out. Ratl.

I'm not sure but I believe we may have two unrelated problems that have the same result which may be why it's not appear under consistent situations.

One may be due to the valve and the other due to the pump.

Doc

On some bikes the hole for the float pivot pin is at minimum tolerance, or the pin is at maximum tolerance, and when it gets hot the plastic expands just enough to prevent the float from moving on the pin and shutting off the flow.

Well. No one else has brought it up.

Well while they have the line off to check fuel pressure, they are going to install this heat insulating shielding.

Then, (Now don't get envious) I have like 3 70 degree test days, let ya know if It passes.
Here is a pic of the heat shield for the bowl, this failed the test immediately! (At about 60 degrees, so it was a bad failure)

To answer your question, See pic below. This is my Puke capture MOD where I came out of where it pukes and did an elbow with a EGR hose and into a Filter to capture the puke and up the downtube a 180 at the Key and down the downtube and behind the sidecovers and to the ground, This did not work, it just held the fuel and made it flood next start. Read below pic.

This fuel filter is connected to the hole that pukes, this comes factory connected to the "Dead end pipe" on a stock air box from the factory, the other line goes to PCV? also to air box. So that's two lines connected to a stock air box. The line that pukes, stock as explained above goes into that little pipe on stock airbox and dead ends onto the back of air box. So it really goes nowhere.

MC

MS1700 wrote:
Ok Now I shut fuel off rode 300 yards to a stop, shut down, I wait 3 minutes and get back on to leave, I feel smart I am going to start this thing with the little fuel left in the bowl, So I do, Then, when I turn the fuel on and get maybe 10 feet LOADS of fuel POURS out all over the place and it floods out! Only way to stop the fuel is shut fuel off and wait for it to run out.

What perplexes me, is why some and not others?
Members of our Star club have RS's 40K miles on em bone stock no puke. Why me?

and we talked about some sort of insulation for around fuel line between jugs, like maybe something they use on a car AC line. Something fireproof and really insulated.

MS1700,
First of all I'm no expert by any means but reading through all of your posts, I gotta lean towards Docs theory that your case may have 2 different issues going on. Let me ask you this, did your bike always puke the same both with shutdown and startup, or did it start only with shutdown and progressively get worst to the point it is right now? The reason I ask is 2 fold.
It sounds like the normal everyday run of the mill puking problem is caused by excessive heat buildup. I'm thinking that this problem in itself is aggrevated by where the rider lives. I live in the country and ride 8-10 miles at 60-70 miles an hour til I turn into my garage. My bike has never puked in my own garage because the engine is cooler when I shut down. But if I am out putsing around at the parks or in town and stop somewhere, that's where the puke happens. I would bet that our members that have a regular problem live in town or somwhere else where they ride at slower speeds just before shutdown causing a higher engine temp at shutdown.
The other thing is if your situation has gotten progresively worse, Maybe your float, float pin, needle valve, etc. has had fuel push past it so often that it has damaged or worn the seat out thus causing the really bad puking at start up for you. It won't seat right any longer and when you kick on the fuel pump, your pumping fuel right past the seat.
Its gonna be interesting to see what the heat shielding does for you. I would guess that if you do a low speed ride, depending on the length, the fuel line will heat up eventually and the shielding may only serve to hold the heat in longer thus making it even worse than it is now.

Well it started as a normal puke and went to the all out puke all over at start up. It's got a new needle and seat in it now.

Did I mention I got an AC compressor mounted up to pump AC through the heat shielding to keep it cool inside? JKing but I am about that desperate.

A is the vacuum chamber outlet

B is the float bowl vent

C is the fuel inlet

D is the float bowl drain

A, B and C vent to the air. A has the elbow with filter attached. B may have a short 2-3" hose on the end (I run as pictured - without). C has no hoses attached.

Is this identical to your setup?

Doc

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