I just recieved my Cobra Fatty Bars and guess what,
no instructions. As near as I can tell, I need to
remove the floorboard mounts ( 06 Road* WHITE Silverado )
and would like to know what I need to take the Allen head
Button bolts off that mount it to the frame. A Allen wrench
wont do the trick. Should I use a impact wrench?
Also the mounting bolts that came with the bars are not the
button head style. Can I find Chrome ones this size? Stainless
perhaps? Also where do the spacer washers go? A note in with
the bolts says to be sure to follow the instructions! Is this
some kind of Humor that I'm not quite grasping?
I'm not a total IDIOT, I'll get them on sooner or later, I just dont
want to strip the mounting bolts out. also any Idea what I should
torque the new bolts at? Any help will be great.
Thanks
Denny

Denny--

Here's the link to the instructions...it's not so bad. Let me know how you like the bars...I almost got those, but went with Yami Big Bars again.

http://www.cobrausa.com/pdf/01-2250.pdf

RK

It didn't take me long to mount my fattys by myself. Don't think you will have any trouble getting the bolts out if you have a good tight set of wrenchs. I did lossen the shift brakets (and maybe the brake too) so I had a straight shot at the bolts. I also loosely bolted the top braket inplace to hold the bars up so I could aline the bottom brakets. I use blue locktight on the bolts and just tighen them down as much as I could. The bigger bars look just right on the big Star. Remember. You can't be an "Idiot" You bought a Road Star!

I went out to Harbor Freight Tools and found a small
set of allen sockets that go on a ratchet and the
floorboard bolts popped right out. I put the spacers
between the frame and the floorboard bracket on the rear
bolts. Took my sweatshirt and put it on the front fender between
the forks to protect my fender. Stuck the Fatty Bars in place and
put the front bolts in through the bracket, the bar and into frame.
Then I bolted the top two brackets in place. I found that the looser
you leave the bolts the easier they are to align the rest. After getting
everything started I snugged them all down. They look great, massive
just like the bike. As soon as I can find out the Torque for the
Floorboard brackets I'll take the bolts out one at a time, loctite them
and torque them down. After I got the sockets total install time was about
20 minutes. It would have been easier if I had a jack to raise the bike up
a foot or so, and a extra set of hands. Just called the stealer and he
wouldn't give me torque setting I need to finish, but he offered to sell
me a Yamaha manual. I need one, but sure wont buy it from him.
Will post PIX when I can.
Thanks
Denny

Hey denny

Don't pay your dealer for the manual. Go here.

http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/handbuch.htm

Thanks Musky and everyone
I never knew that web site existed
http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/handbuch.htm
I'll have to write that down for future use.
It's all done and they look great. I plan on posting
pictures, but not until I get The Beast washed, I've had
it covered in the garage since the end of November, but
it still looks nasty. About a foot of snow out there, and
talk of another storm coming through next week. So I can't
wash it now. I sure hope I don't forget how to ride. I've
Got the Road Star Jones!!!

Thanks Again
Denny

PS Whats your thought on 3" Hard Krome drag pipes?

dennyo2 wrote:
Whats your thought on 3" Hard Krome drag pipes?

You mean the 3" Big Straights? I love mine...

RK

RK, I thought those were the 3" HK's in your picture, I need to read
some more on jetting before I tackle the pipes and BAK, but I'm
learning a lot by lurking in the background of this site. These people
are full of information. About how long does it take to rejet a carb?
Denny

dennyo2 wrote:
About how long does it take to rejet a carb?
Denny



First time, about 4 hours...but that includes:
1)Checking the directions 412 times, then ignoring them and just going with the Tech Tip you'll print out from the Clinic.
2) Running to Lowe's and getting the 4 Allen bolts to replace the Play Doh (brass) screws that hold the float bowl on and invariably WILL strip when you take them out.
3) Beer.
4) Checking everything 26 times before and after you put it all back together.



After that first time, though, I can redo the main, needle and be cranking her up in about 20 minutes. It really is very easy, it's just the "little part/big hands" thing for me.

Helpful hints: Do it while the car is still on the bike...don't disconnect the TPS. Pull the choke cable through from the other side (you'll have to loosen the fuel pump to do that) and take the idle adjustment cable out of it's bracket. The carb will just hang there, but it's OK. (see below)




RK