bjoe wrote:
I want to try this but went to NAPA and they had know idea of foil insulating tape. Where did you get it and what do you recommend. Thought about going to home depot but will ask you first

I think he's talking about the aluminum tape HVAC guys use to seal air duct joints, and it's not duct tape.

Yep about 2" wide and long as you want to pay for, has aluminum on outside and then foam with adheasive on it. i found at a hardware store in the heating and cooling dept.

MS1700,
Was just thinking about the "rescue tape" that you put on your carb out in the Ozarks. What did you find out? Did it do the trick or are you still having the puking issue?

Musky wrote:
On some bikes the hole for the float pivot pin is at minimum tolerance, or the pin is at maximum tolerance, and when it gets hot the plastic expands just enough to prevent the float from moving on the pin and shutting off the flow.

Well. No one else has brought it up.
i was thinking the float itself may be at fault, if the valve is ok.

on the puking problem my service guy told me to turn off the cockpit and do not turn it on till after I start the bike dosent puke any more . he said it was do to heat

Cheif, No that didn't do the trick, Well I'm not sure it lasted until i took it off again to adjust the PMS and then I didn't put it back on. But It's puking real nice now that the heat is up and shutting it off makes no difference. It even pukes on startup, no matter if you turn the fuel on or not. OR as soon as you turn the fuel on. So, I am still on the drawing board. I give up on the stock airbox, It's holding too much heat in with Ben Herr manifold so I stole this idea and I am going to work on it for a while. Jetting today. Then if it pukes, goodbye fuel pump!

And since i am winter warrior, I even melted a hole for the breather to go into the filter.

But I can assure you rescue tape is used in this install. I used one length of 1/2 aluminum rod smashed after proper bending it goes above carb inlet, rear bolt tightens it and rescue tape is wrapped around the center to put pressure on the carb to hold it to the Ben Herr. So my filter goes on with no screws into the filter. (Anyone doing the Mr' C's Filter may want to note this as filter can be removed with just the clamp now)

WOW!! Came here about two hours ago to ask a question about what I now know is referred to as PUKING. Like some of you, I feel better that I'm not alone. Like others, sad that we are left to fix this on our own.

I'm 10 days from the end of warranty on my '07 1700 Midnight. Looks like going to the dealer isn't going to fix much.

My first, and only instance so far was a couple weeks ago. 90 degrees, 2 up, tooting sedately on some rural roads. After an hour of riding, stopped for coffee for 15-20 minutes, came back out to a bike that reaked of gas and would not start.

My question is: what is the best way to get the bike restarted so you and the lovely wife can get back home before the children do??

GregRidesAgain wrote:
WOW!! Came here about two hours ago to ask a question about what I now know is referred to as PUKING. Like some of you, I feel better that I'm not alone. Like others, sad that we are left to fix this on our own.

I'm 10 days from the end of warranty on my '07 1700 Midnight. Looks like going to the dealer isn't going to fix much.

My first, and only instance so far was a couple weeks ago. 90 degrees, 2 up, tooting sedately on some rural roads. After an hour of riding, stopped for coffee for 15-20 minutes, came back out to a bike that reaked of gas and would not start.

My question is: what is the best way to get the bike restarted so you and the lovely wife can get back home before the children do??

Maybe somewhere here you can find pictures of the tube I put on vent on carb. Do that. To re start you give it like 1/4 throttle and crank away and it will start, when it does keep the rev on until it runs clear. (3 seconds) Turning the gas OFF does help but on mine I found OFF to be slightly towards on as total OFF on mine still allows fuel by.

If I were you I would go right into the K&N filter like I just put on. The factory one holds in too much heat. Yami knows it's a problem. Dealer is still working with me on mine getting a free re jet today. (To match new air filter) It's their call but explain that it's an ongoing problem and if they jack with you turn it in to NTSB No vehicle should puke raw fuel like these do. Especially an 07 with all the EPA crap they supposedly had to comply with. It's heat heat heat held in the Bowl area. I think if we cool the bowl we get rid of the puke.

The more insulation I put on bowl the less puke I got and the longer it took to puke.

Thanks MS1700. Think I'll take a Monday ride to the dealer for kicks and giggles and let everyone know how I made out. I'm sure they will have a magic answer for me. I agree that heat seems to be the enemy.

GregRidesAgain wrote:
Thanks MS1700. Think I'll take a Monday ride to the dealer for kicks and giggles and let everyone know how I made out. I'm sure they will have a magic answer for me. I agree that heat seems to be the enemy.
My dealer got award for like top 6? in country, they are a lot of help but they don't have the answer although they are on an active no cost to me search. I've talked to every dealer I have passed they all say Idoenoe and they suggest something a 7th grader in a lawnmower repair class can come up with. A few will even say Yami knows about it, some hide that fact, ALL are required to attend the Yami convention once a year where this is an unsolved topic.

it's not going to be a big deal until someone tosses a cig under a bike after it pukes and it blows up a school or the White House.

If you have the vented gas cap Mod. The explosion will be slightly less thundering than one without.

Yamaha stuck me with the problem, not my dealer.