rsmith wrote:
2000 Roadstar 1600: My salesman sold me the wrong battery, the terminals were switched. I didn't notice at first. After tightening the neg cable (to the pos term) I proceded to install the other cable (to the neg term) That is when it became evident by the sparking when I tried to connect it. I took the battery out and went back to town, got the correct battery, charged it up, and installed it properly this time. When I turn the ignition switch to start, nothing happens, it seems dead. I pulled the 30amp main fuse and checked it with a meter, it was okay. Then I opened the fuse box and checked the 15amp ignition fuse, it was okay too. Still no power when I switch ignition switch to start. help please,
rsmith

You may have fried the ECU hooking it up backwards. I had a Yamaha Wolverine ATV that a wired grounded out on the exhaust and it would not do a thing. I spent hours running down all the connections and what I figured happened is when one of the kids was getting on the bike their little foot must have been small enough to get on top of the wiring harness and push down just enough to touch the hot exhaust and kill it. The hard part was obviously the wire was no longer on the exhaust b/c the kid wasn't still standing on the harness so it was a MISSION to hunt down. I wasn't home when it happened so all I got was "The fourwheeler won't start anymore". Once I found the wire then the ECU tested bad on the multimeter, installed a new one and bam it started right back. Needless to say the harness got a few extra zip ties!
Electrical is a funny creature...when the wire was shorted and you hit the starter button the reverse light would illuminate and the headlight would go out.

I don't think the 2000 Model has this module. This weekend I will be off and plan to start with the battery, even though it's new, cleaning the posts & connections good, then check for voltage across, if all good will reconnect, rechecking the fuses. I have a hard time believing that it did some real damage, thats what fuses are for. Thanks for your repy. RSmith

Yeah you have one...some call it a CDI, or Ignitor Unit, or ECU. I looked it up on Bike Bandit and it shows one under Electrical. They call it an ignitor unit. Hopefully you didn't mess it up b/c they want over $400 for it.

If it happens to be your ignitor module I have one laying around..

Scott sastebbins@netzero.com

Sorry guys, but I haven't been around for a few days to reply.

Evidently, it turned out to be that my battery committed suicide. I've never had one go from running everything and starting just fine to not even being able to turn on gauges or lights at all. She tested at 12v on the meter, but when I turned on the switch, 2v - 3v. Wierd!

When I hooked up jumper cables to my *, nothing, I mean nothing happened. The battery must have had something go wrong internally as it would not pass on any power from the cables. I was only able to confirm this by removing the positive cable completely from the battery and hooking that up directly to a car battery to test the rest of the systems. Everything else worked fine then.

Anyhow, got a new 310cca battery and now everything is normal again. Like I said though, never had one go from working fine one minute to being totally dead the next. Usually a gradual death that you can expect. Oh, well.

Thanks for all the input guys and especially to Curt for the informational PM's.

Ratl.

Weather changes can do that. At the beginning of last winter I had my truck and my work truck both crap out in a matter of days.

Ratl wrote:
Like I said though, never had one go from working fine one minute to being totally dead the next. Usually a gradual death that you can expect. Oh, well.


I have a fellow who works for me part time, who has a Kawasaki Vulcan VN750. He left the shop a few days ago and went to the kindergarten to pick up his son. Then he went to a gas station for fillup; when he went to leave there was a click and the lights went out when he pushed the starter button. A little 3/4 amp battery tender shows full charge in about 15 minutes. One touch of the starter button kills it instantly. Another battery hooked up with jumpers in place of the other starts it up with no problem.

Clifford

Clifford wrote:
Ratl wrote:
Like I said though, never had one go from working fine one minute to being totally dead the next. Usually a gradual death that you can expect. Oh, well.


I have a fellow who works for me part time, who has a Kawasaki Vulcan VN750. He left the shop a few days ago and went to the kindergarten to pick up his son. Then he went to a gas station for fillup; when he went to leave there was a click and the lights went out when he pushed the starter button. A little 3/4 amp battery tender shows full charge in about 15 minutes. One touch of the starter button kills it instantly. Another battery hooked up with jumpers in place of the other starts it up with no problem.

Clifford

Exactly the same thing! Can't plan for it, just the way it is.

Thanks to all who were trying to help me with the problem. I tell you, it was really quite simple after all, it burned out the main fuse. The reason I missed it at first is that I looked at my Haynes Manual first. It showed a picture with an arrow pointing to the left fuse, stating it was the 30amp main fuse & the one on the right was a spare. So I took it literally and checked only the one on the left. Since it was good, it confused me. Later I pulled up the Yamaha Service Manual and it showed the fuse on the right to be the 30amp fuse, so today I has time and nice weather, so I pulled the fuse on the right and sure enough, it was burned out. Bike is running again and I'm a happy rider. Again,BIG THANKS, Rob Smith ardy1958@sbcglobal.net

and even if you didn't get it going--which you did--still put it outside of the garage and in the driveway---it looks great there!!!! Now go charge that batt----VROOM VROOM Ronnie in MD