It started today, I road to the store, about 20 min ride, shut it off and turned off the gas at the tank like I always do. When I came out 15 min later it smelled like gas a little. I turn on the gas at the tank and when I turned on the key the electric pump ticked very fast and longer than usual.
Normally it only ticks about 3 or 4 ticks then stops, this time it was like 100 ticks. I went to start it and it took alot of cranking but finally started. I rode it home and shut it down then left it for 15 min. took off the air cleaner so I could see. when I started it, I cranked for longer than normal and it started, ran it for a couple of minutes. When I shut it down, it immediately ran gas out the carb overflow tube on the bottom of the bowl.
I pulled the carb and checked all the lines jets, float and float setting. I cleaned it all up and and reset the float height. I started it and it ran fine, I shut it down after 4 min and saw no leak.
I will take it out tomorrow and get it good and warm and try it again to see if it is fixed. Then I'll post the results, I'm hoping it was the float out of adjustment.

Your float probably just got stuck.

Steven

Tusler,if you find it's not a float issue i bet it the heat soak post shutdown causing the carb puke that many R*'s seems to have an issue with and it doesn't have to be hot out either or fuel pumpon either to puke fuel.

The fuel pump doesnt cause the fuel overflow but it makes things worse when you turn ign on and fuel is already starting to boil increasing fuel pressure in fuel line/flaot bowl & be pushed past needle & seat and goes all over the place when ign is turned on.

Remember,you said you smelled fuel before you went to start the bike which is because the fuel was already boiling in the fuel system starting to overflow then when you turned on ign avtivating the fuel pump it makes it worse forcing out more fuel/faster under a little more fuel pressure from the elec fuel pump at that point.

On 1 of the tests in did when my i shut dowm my bike hot with winter blend fuel in it that boils at lower temps was to listen for the fuel to boil a few mins post shutdown and when i heard he fuel start to boil(before i insualted the fuel system) and fuel just started to come out the overflow i squirted some cool water on float bowl & metal fuel line inbetween cyls which quickly stopped the fuel from boiling thus stopped fuel from comming out the overflow which confirmed it was the fuel line/float bowl being overhetaed causing the problem in the 1st place.

BTW,Mine bike carb started to puke only after they switched to the winter fuel blend that has more ethenol that boils at 35 deg f approx lower temp then summer grade fuel does. But i only got my 06 R* approx 2-2.5 months ago so havent ridden it in 80-90 deg f heat yet either.

Even in 50-55 deg temps when a R* still has lrg stock airbox and fuel pump in stock location there's not much airflow between cyls and the metal fuel line inbetwwen the cyls and metal carb/float bowl stuffed inbetween the cyls get very hot.

When my bikes carb puked when the winter grade fuel 1st hit the area it was only 50-55 deg and as soon as it happended i had the aircleaner assembly off in approx 2 mins and the carb/float bowl was so hot it burned my finger holding it there for like 2 seconds,same for metal fuel line inbetween cyls,burning hot.

But i am sure it would have done the same thing once in a while on a hot summer day with summer grade fuel too.

I could actually hear the fuel boiling in the carb when it was puking fuel and mine pucked without the ignition and or fuel pump on too.

When the fuel boils in the fuel line/float bowl the gas state it turns into increases fuel pressure within the fuel system and the needle & seat if is the weakest link when that happens & the fuel simply overflows out of carb at that time all over the hot motors making nice hissing sounds smoking looking like its goig to ignite anysecond,kinda scary.

The 1st thing you should do to reduce the safety/fire hazard of the fuel hitting hot motor in case it happens again is to extend the overflow hose to exit under the bike so fuel wont hit the hot motor again.

Also,since i realized the fuel line and carb were getting too hot boilng the winter grade fuel that boils at lower temp i got some special fuel line insulating tape approx 1.5" wide good to 2k deg f temps & is used for hi perf automotive race apps.

I then insualted the metal fuel line inbetween cyls,fuel lines on fuel pump & fuel filter,the fuel pump itself sinces its metal which also get's overheated from cyl heat,and was also able to insulate the float bowl and few sides of carb for most part too .

You can't see the insulating tape on the carb with the lrg stock airbox & can't see it on the fuel line inbetween the cyls either. But you can see it on the fue lines on fuel pump side but it doesnt look bad to me.

Now keep in mind i did some testing and could get it to consistantly puke the winter grade fuel approx 5 mins pst shutdown 4 of 5 times i tried running in high traffic stop/go traffic then comming home with it heated up & shutting it down and puking approx 5 mins later without the fuel pump on.

Then after insulating the fuel system with that same tank of lower boiling pont winter blend fuel that alreadey puked a few times ina row pos hot shutdown it would not puke at all or smell of fuel either like it used to do 5 min post hot shutdown prior to insulating fuel system.

When that tank of fuel was gone i refilled in same station at same pump & same Grade fuel and ran thru that compelete tank too without 1 carb puke .

Now summer grade fuel boils at approx 35 deg hotter so since i got it to not puke boiling fuel out in 50-55 deg f temps add 35 deg f to that temp and your at 85-90deg f temps so i am hoping it will not puke then either which ia am pretty confident will work out ok.

The unsulating tape i used is good up to 2k deg f so i think its up to the task at hand hope i have fixded my bike carb puke without having to bother with the fuel pump delete process likely having to realibrate the carb too .

I will definately report on if my bike pukes fuel or not in 90+ deg F HHH heat like we get here in NY when i ride this comming summer.

BTW,my bike has roadburner pipes with jet kit & runs great with no running lean issues or carb spitting/backfiring comming off idle. or motor backfiring when decellorating /down shifitng comming to a stop either ,plugs look good too.

Scott

I took it out and ran it till it got good and hot shut it oof and restarted it on 4 different occasions and do not have any more leaking going on.
I guess it was either resetting the float height or like he said the float was sticking.
It was acting just like it was pucking but that was not the problem this time.
But it is running good now... I have been very fortunate in that I have 21K miles on it now and this is the first trouble I have had from it and it was easy to fix, just took some time.
You all Ride safe while your riding easy.

Tusler,glad to see you seem to have it squared away.

Scott

TUSLER,JUST WONDERING ,HAVE YOU HAD ANYMORE CARB PUKE NOW THAT YOU HAVE MORE MILES UNDER YOUR BELT POST THE FLOAT LVL ADJ YOU MADE ON YOUR R*?

SCOTT