No, But I just didn't know I had to have a major degree in writing to post here. I just posted it worked, if you have nothing to lose as in my case I was ready to buy a new clutch, Try it. If it works you saved money like I did. I didn't expect to cause such an uproar posting a cure. I think I miss used the word no. I got crucified and I deserved it. Makcap and I went to a very cool factory that machines clutches. At least him and I know a lot more about how they work and he showed us some secrets. If I had $600 I'd buy the EFM clutch, I'm unemployed at the time so, Not.

If the additives are designed for M/C they should be fine, but I don't see how they could help with friction, which is what they are designed for. We used the slick 50 in our airplanes, and you could tell the difference each morning as you would pull the big Radial engine through by hand, to clear cylinders before starting... Our Mechanic tried some in his Classic ole Norton. OOPS! had to replace his clutch. The teflon in the stuff got into his metal plates. He tried every thing to clean them, and nothing worked had to buy new...(Expertise, come on now, an ex is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure) ... Butch

MR S.
I think that this is a good method of cleaning the clutch plates. If you like dino or synthetic who cares. I agree the way you ride will effect the clutch. Synthetics tend to cling better and it was a recommendation for dino. There is a lot of technical info out there. OIl has changed drastically and not all for the good of our scoots.
I think the weather of your region even plays into all of this. I think clutch slipping is more common than people realize. Ever drive a stick for a while and hop into an automatic and attempt to shift. Whats my point increasing the hp on these bikes with add ons effects the clutch. The plate spring is a weak point and the bolts stretch in my opinion. Some people are just use to it. If you try this it might seem more obvious. Just saying. Anyway oil doesn't bathe your clutch plates but synthetics do cling better, thus the easier startups with less damage. So why wouldn't you want to help degrease for lack of a better. Never hurts to purge the system ever now and then. I do know also the oil is a coolant and barrier to metal more than a lubricant even though it holds some of those properties as well.
Just another thought would be if you use seafoam in the tank or for fogging do you think it doesn't end up in the oil anyhow to some degree.
I know you are just messing around felt wordy today so there you have my ramblings and incomplete thoughts.

PS It is almost St. pats day better get those green beers out to everyone asap!

Just an FYI,many oils thicker then 10-30 mfg these days do in fact have fiction modifiers in them.

I know this from oil research i have been doing over past 3 yrs for another forum/team chevelle.

For example,recently i found from contacting oil engineers @ mobil & chevron that mobil 1 15w-50 syn hi perf race oil & chevrons delo 15-40 dino both had friction mods in them and they dont rec them for wet clutch apps.

The oil engineers at both those companies told me oils mfg'd today that are thicker then 10w-30 often do have friction modifiers in them so the statement oils without the star on the label dont have friction modfiers isnt correct anymore.

Scott

Mr_Shamrock wrote:
Did I miss something MS I didn't take it as anyone "crucifying" you. Just a few opinions on the ever so beat to death synthetic oil debate. I say just like whatever bike you choose to ride, if you want to use synthetic oil then use it. I think the majority of people "read somewhere" that synthetic will make your clutch slip and have never actually went through the process to try it out. Alot of that is to blame on these powersports stores and them hiring uneducated parts and service guys that speak out of their ass to customers and now that customer is misinformed and repeats that misinformation to others.
I am not sure if you were referring to my comment here or not, but I was just stating personal experience which really had nothing to do with synthetic vs dino but more of running motor oil in a trans like alot of HD guys do. I personally felt better with the heavier gear lube in the trans vs. engine oil.
I appreciate the tip on the seafoam that is something I never thought about putting in the transfer case. Thanks!

P.S. Just cause you haven't figured out how to use a clutch yet you don't have to be embarrassed.

WOW! I don't know how to use a clutch huh? I can prove by documentation I have millions of miles using a clutch Shamrock I have more miles backing up than you do going forward. Thanks for the info. And I didn't say Transfer case I said the oil, this isn't a Hardley.

MS1700 wrote:
Mr_Shamrock wrote:
Did I miss something MS I didn't take it as anyone "crucifying" you. Just a few opinions on the ever so beat to death synthetic oil debate. I say just like whatever bike you choose to ride, if you want to use synthetic oil then use it. I think the majority of people "read somewhere" that synthetic will make your clutch slip and have never actually went through the process to try it out. Alot of that is to blame on these powersports stores and them hiring uneducated parts and service guys that speak out of their ass to customers and now that customer is misinformed and repeats that misinformation to others.
I am not sure if you were referring to my comment here or not, but I was just stating personal experience which really had nothing to do with synthetic vs dino but more of running motor oil in a trans like alot of HD guys do. I personally felt better with the heavier gear lube in the trans vs. engine oil.
I appreciate the tip on the seafoam that is something I never thought about putting in the transfer case. Thanks!

P.S. Just cause you haven't figured out how to use a clutch yet you don't have to be embarrassed.

WOW! I don't know how to use a clutch huh? I can prove by documentation I have millions of miles using a clutch Shamrock I have more miles backing up than you do going forward. Thanks for the info. And I didn't say Transfer case I said the oil, this isn't a Hardley.

Wow man take a freakin joke will ya! I was just messing with you b/c you were getting a little peeved over the other posts. I will definitely keep it 100% serious with you from now on trust me. I really don't care how many miles you have ridden or backed your bike. I never have claimed to have ridden the most miles, but I know I have logged my share over the last 20 years. Incredible!

Ok boys, Play nice
Thanks MS1700 for the tip. My 99 R* hadn't experianced clutch slip until now. It has only 17,000 miles on it and I have had it almost a year now. Changed the oil out to AmsOil 20/50 soon after purchased. All was good. Had the trans recall done late last summer and oil was replased w/Yamilube by dealer at that time and still in there. All was still good. Over the winter I did the poormans BAK w/K&N, rejetted carb, stage 2 stock pipes and Dyna 3000 set at 32 advance, Runs awesome but I now have clutch slippage under hard accell in 2nd 3rd & 4th gear. Not a lot but a noticeable slipping. I will try the seafoam as I am about to change the oil back to the AmsOil synth. Worth a shot.

Exactly what I was getting, The better I get it to run the weaker the clutch seemed to be. Mine is 99% cured of slip, Like new. I just ran the Seafoam 2 days and it was fine so I changed the oil and all is still fine. Very fine. 6 oz's ride until it's good, change oil.
I'll be putting it in before each oil change from now on.

MS1700 wrote:
Exactly what I was getting, The better I get it to run the weaker the clutch seemed to be. Mine is 99% cured of slip, Like new. I just ran the Seafoam 2 days and it was fine so I changed the oil and all is still fine. Very fine. 6 oz's ride until it's good, change oil.
I'll be putting it in before each oil change from now on.

MS When you say you ran it for 2 days before the oil change how much riding were you able to get in? Just asking to get a better idea.... I guess milage wise instead of days, sounds like a good idea prior to oil changes, thanks in advance.

I put it in late pm and was going to change oil, it was doing so well i decided to leave it in overnight, seemed like leaving it in overnight did well as it really showed a lot of improvement next Am, so much so I changed the oil that day. So it was only in there for about 30 to 45 miles. If it's just a maintenance thing, I would just go 10 miles and change the oil. If your trying to cure the slip run it until it gets better and change.