Roadies:

I installed a set of Roadhouse Classics 2-1 pipes on my Road* earlier this spring, piggy-backing the Roadhouse gasket over the OEM gasket.

No leaks. So far, so good.

Well, it's been 100 miles since I installed the pipes and I now have to go back and re-torque the exhaust header bolts, as per the Roadhouse instructions.

Here's the rub:

The instructions never mentioned applying anti-seize lubricant to the exhaust header bolts when re-installing the head pipes, so I didn't use any. I didn't know any better.

Should I leave well enough alone and simply re-torque the bolts, or should I remove the bolts and apply anti-seize lubricant first, then re-torque the bolts?

If you recommend that I use the anti-seize, how do you recommend that I do it? Can I safely loosen one nut at a time, apply the anti-seize, re-torque, then move to the next nut?

Thanks for your help.

Your probably fine just the way you are. If you wanted to use anti-seize, you could remove the studs/nuts one at a time and apply alittle A/S and and re-install. Alittle goes a long way.BB

Not necessary ... I didnt.. but you can...

Loosen both nuts slightly...then remove and replace one at a time....then tighten alternately again...

if you ride all year round, a bit of anti-sieze is a good idea.

i always put it on the exhaust studs of my customers bikes because it makes things easier for me the next time

Never really thought about this myself and I just tighten up the nuts on my exhaust header without thinking of using a torque wrench. Tightened them fairly tight, not too tight that I thought I was going to strip the bolt. Would there be a problem with this...not using a torgue wrench and what would be the proper torgue setting if I need to reset?

Just put the pipes on about a week ago and no problems so far.

Thanky!

Michael

Dabuckman:

The torque value on the M8 header nuts is 14 foot pounds.

If you have a good "feel" for it, you can tighten your nuts and bolts by hand. I prefer the torque wrench because: a) it takes the guess work out of it, and b) I don't have a good "feel" for it.

You're probably okay, since you're not having issues. It's just a matter of personal preference - there's no right or wrong about it.

Thanks.

Big Bear:

Did you use anti-seize when you installed your pipes?

If I wouldn't cause any harm, I was thinking of letting it be. If, for some reason, I had to remove the pipes, or if I developed a leak, then I'd do the anti-seize thing on the studs. Does that sound right?

Pop:

If it's not necessary, then I'll probably leave it alone. I just don't want to do any harm and cause myself issues down the road.

If I ever do it, however, I'll use your method: one nut at a time.

Thanks.

erizo:

if you ride all year round, a bit of anti-sieze is a good idea.

Since I live in NJ (AND I'm a fair weather rider), I only ride from April through November. The Road* winters in my shed.

I'm curious, though. Why would it make a difference if I rode all year around?


i always put it on the exhaust studs of my customers bikes because it makes things easier for me the next time

How does it make things easier for you?

Thanks.