TampaSVT wrote:
You can buy shoes too small and cut out the toe area, too...

The closer you move that front tire to the tongue, the more weight distribution is going to be forward. We're only talking about a few inches, so probably not that big of a deal...

I error'd on the side of caution and just bought a 10' trailer that simply fits it properly.
Rich

I haul my bike on an 8' trailer, but it is a heavy-duty frame and 2 ton axle. The Roadstar just barely fits on it; if I were buying a economy utility trailer I would go with the 10' also, rather than increasing the tongue weight which can cause you to wobble. I agree that you shouldn't trailer your R* with it on a kickstand and in gear. A removable chock is only about $20.00 and is the most important tie-down for the whole deal. I put forged rings (through-bolted thru the 2" decking) at each corner of the trailer and secure the bike at 4 points with heavy-duty ratchet straps. There are a number of sites that give really good pointers on trailering your cruiser. The last thing you want is to have your bike come off the bed at highway speeds. Something else- I bought my trailer from a guy who used it to occasionally transport his HD Heritage Classic. He used a 2X6" lumber ramp with a proprietary cast-aluminum end bolted on. On my third use the casting snapped, leaving my Roadie hanging off the end of the trailer, engine still running, with me holding it up... I found out the castings were rated to 550# ea. Make sure your ramp is rated to at least 1000#. I found great American-made heavy-duty mc ramps at Dambach Ramps and their quality is exceptional, and they are cheap- I paid $100.00 for a 1000# capacity ramp welded up in aluminum. That included shipping. Their site is: https://www.dambachramps.com/
John Scribner

Note the cheesy lumber ramps. The 15 wheels really help on the highway, too.

I have the cheap 5x8 tailgate ramp lowes special.
it fits in a pinch to get her home but not to travel.
I would have a weldor, slice a piece dead center out
of the upper front frame to fit the tire and weld in a couple angle extensions with bracing OR cut & weld in a wheel chock. to buy 3-4" so the tail dont rub on the gate. load balance wouldn't be to bad either.

i was thinkin that or some 5-6" pin extensions so the gate hangs back a little. (instead of notching out the tailgate, my 3rd option)

I painted (3 coats) 2 cut 5x4' 3/8 plywood sheet's and layed them in fastening with 3 rows of carrage bolts and fender washers (each sheet) and used one of the cut's (cut in half again & painted ) underneath the center section with 1 1/4" bolts there (1" the other rows) 5 bolts across and total 6 rows. the expanded metal floor really will stretch out from a constant same place load.

i should upload a picture.

oh and the plywood sheething makes it pretty stable unloaded too. sometimes you have to travel half the trip empty!

TampaSVT wrote:
You can buy shoes too small and cut out the toe area, too...





Yes, that's what I was going for (just didn't state it as 'matter of fact' as you did).

jsawaya wrote:
I was thinking of getting a 4x8 trailer frame and extending the front tire over the triangle area of the tongue. A 6" inch channel of steel should easily be supported by the tongue in order to get the bike to fit. No?

This is a great post topic as I've been looking for a trailer in the last two weeks to do this. Keep sharing your thoughts.

Jim
that's basically what i plan on doing to my 5x8 trailer. cut the frame on the front and weld in a wheel chock into the front frame and let it over hang the tongue area.

greenpus wrote:
jsawaya wrote:
I was thinking of getting a 4x8 trailer frame and extending the front tire over the triangle area of the tongue. A 6" inch channel of steel should easily be supported by the tongue in order to get the bike to fit. No?

This is a great post topic as I've been looking for a trailer in the last two weeks to do this. Keep sharing your thoughts.

Jim
that's basically what i plan on doing to my 5x8 trailer. cut the frame on the front and weld in a wheel chock into the front frame and let it over hang the tongue area.

That will give you a lot of tongue weight which could give you a wobble, and probably will... Bike should be in the center of gravity on the trailer, alittle tongue weight but not much . Why not just go with the 10 footer, and no problems or mods needed? You can find them on craigs list new for about $650 here in Ok. And they will have the ramp and 15 inche wheels. ....

Thanks for all the input. Since this would be for long travel - NY - FL - I'm thinking a used Stinger on CL local may be best bet. It's in great shapre and I can get it for $750. Still a lot of money though.

I'm telling you. Cost means nothing when you are trailing your baby down the highway all the way to FL. I did it in February. You will run into heat, potholes, traffic jams, and high-speed driving with crazy drivers. If your tow-vehicle is solid, and your bike is solid on the trailer, you will have a trouble-free ride. Don't skimp. Be safe. You want to enjoy Florida when you get down there! Ride safe...
John Scribner

You may want to consider this: Tractor Supply 5x10 trailer . Check the tech specs and reviews. And, it's on SALE!

BillD in Michigan

I have a 5x10 and mine fits great. Even hauled mine and a Fat Boy side by side without problems.

No way I would put that kind of investment on a cheap trailer. I have a friend who bought a HF trailer a few years back and the bearings went out not long after. They were ball bearings. He couldn't find replacements and had to swap the axle. I have a 5x10 tilt bed with a heavy axle and full size tires and works fine. You can't touch the ground when loading though, and unloading on gravel is tricky. If you have a place to store it, get a quality trailer. You will find many more uses for it too. I think Agpilot has the perfect trailer for my uses.