I took care of the fuel sensor problem last Tuesday night and then on Friday my battery was dead. I put it on the tender and it has been fine until this morning.

Dead or very weak battery, I jumped it, rode it to work and at the final stop light while sitting in neutral I noticed that my tach was all over the place. It's an electrical tach by Barons.

When I pulled up at work and coasted to a stop in neutral the tach was once again freakin' out. I pulled in the clutch lever and put the bike in first and it died. The instrument panel reset and then went out. Now if I turn the key I get nothing. I brought my Battery Tender with me and the bike is hooked up to it right now. I'm hopin' at lunch that maybe I'll get something out of it but after a 30 mile ride I would assume that there would be some sort of charge on it and as I mentioned I am getting nothing when I turn the key, not even a weak headlight.

Any takers?

Sounds like you need to charge the battery and have it load tested. If it don't pass a load test then you will need a new battery. If it passes a battery load test you will need to check all your battery connections and your charging system.

You can perform a field load test by hitting start to the point just prior to turning over while measuring voltage before and during start. Ideally, you'd disconnect ignition and turn over for 15 secs, but the prior method works for me. Shouldn't find any more than 1.5V drop. GOOD LUCK!

PS-make sure you fully charge your battery prior to performing this test for accuracy

these batteries are touchy..i replaced both of mine and have had no more problems ...

Sorry if you mentioned this but did you make sure your + & - connections are tight to the battery? If so, is the ground tight to the bike? My similar issues was a loose - connection to the battery...gave intermittent performance. Not knowing this I put it on the tender a few days and the - connection arced to the battery post, which causes a lot of heat, and melted 1/2 of the battery post and scorched the tender wire.

Otherwise I agree that if the battery was good it should last 30 miles even if it was not recharging from the rec/reg. Battery health would be the next test.

Well checked all connections while battery was on a charger. Replaced battery and it showed 13.2 volts. Turn the key and it dropped to .2volts.

While it was at .2 I went and pulled each fuse to see if the voltage would jump back up and at least tell me where to start looking and got nothing.

Pulled the car over and attached cables to the battery and the bike lit right up. Just replaced the battery and am waiting for it to settle before I install it. The last battery was one year old. here in AZ I guess that's pretty good. Of course it was one month past warranty too, "so I got that going for me. Which is...which is nice!!!"

DROPPED TO .2V??? I think based on the 13V voltage drop, it's safe to assume it's new battery time! What part of AZ are you in? I'm in Tucson

Yeah, sounds like a toasted battery. I am on my 4th in the last 4 years...had a string of duds and have tried diff brands each time.

This last one finally seems as if it will make it...warranty is up next month so I am hoping not to have a Dec surprise.

When I lived in MA, I VERY rarely replaced batteries. Here in AZ, not quite so lucky! Luckily probs have occurred during warranty.