I am getting ready to do an oil change on an 04 Road Star. The manual calls for 20w-40. As I am heading west for a week long road trip I was thinking of using a 20w-50 because of the long days and hot temps. What are your thoughts on changing the weight of the oil? I saw the article on changing oil and it seems like the road star can handle and do well on a wide variety of oils. I am tempted to try the 20w-50 year round. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks
Hat

I use 15W50 synthetic and ride from 32 to 90 F.

Doc

I'm currently running Mobile 1 V-Twin 20-50 in my 03 after 2 different oil-type changes so far this year. Tried 15-50 synthetic, 20-40 non-synthetic (came with bike at purchase in March). R* runs great regardless but the knock is still there. Yet to try WOT test, "steam cleaning" method, additives to gas and whatever come's down the pike next. Some prefer Castrol, Mobile 1 synthetic, Royal Purple, etc. but it's a personal choice. It runs so strong I'm beginning to think I could add Coca Cola without any damage (but I'll save that for my Jack'n'coke). Maybe someone else has more R* saddle time and could help you more. Keep it safe.

Besides Yamalube 20W-40, there are only a few choices for a 20W-40 motor oil and none of them are good ones.

Most Roadies use either a 20W-50 or a 15W-50 automotive or motorcycle-specific motor oil.

Since the second number of an oil's weight signifies its viscosity at operating temperature, I belive it's important to stay as close to that number as possible when choosing an oil.

Personally, I use diesel/gasoline 15W-40 (and soon, 5W-40 synthetic) motor oils because they have commercial certifications. The commercial certification CI-4 Plus includes extra protection for high-temp, high-rev motors. Diesel oils typically contain more detergents, dispersants and a much more robust VII (viscosity index improver) package than S-type oils.

Good luck.

Welcome to the clinic Hat, I use amsoil 20/50 year round with no problem.
Just be sure it has no friction modefiers as would auto oil. Mobil 1 , royalpurple
Or what Doc said .

Hat,
I know most people seem to prefer and are switching to synthetic oils, but I'm running regular Castrol 20W50 in my '05 without any adverse affects. Recently completed a 3,300 mile trip to Yellowstone where temps got as high as 104 coming across Wyoming and didn't have any problems.
I've been using nothing but Castrol in my bikes now for over 20 years and have never had any type of oil related engine problems, so I don't see the need to pay the extra money for the synthetics, but that's just me. And even though Yamaha says to change the oil every 4,000 miles, I still feel better about changing it and the filter every 3,000 miles.
As far as using the 20W50 year-round, I've never had a problem there either, and I'll coutinue to ride 'til temps drop to about 36.
That's my .02 cents worth, so welcome to the clinic and ride safe!!


In The Wind,
Aaron

I switched to the Amsoil 20w/50 at 4,000 oil change and valve tapping noise dissapeared, it was never loud by an means but it just went away... engine doesn't seem to get as hot either... I ride every day and love synthetic oil in everything I own, just my opinion, for a little extra money I feel I have seen benefits all the way around, Cooler engine, quieter, cleaner oil at change interval...
I know I will miss some but Amsoil, Mobil 1, Royal Purple and several others all make a v-twin wet clutch compliant synthetic (usually 20w/50) choice is yours.

Paul

K&N, V&H Powershots, 190DJ/DJ Pilot/2.5PMS

Hat

I have used several different syn.oils from shell rotella 5w40, Mobil 1 15w50 Vavoline 20w50 and now Lucas Racing 20w50. Lucas seems to be the best for my bike here in Florida by far the quietest that I have used. I heard and maybe someone can verify you can use any 20w50 syn none have the friction modifiers in it.

Try different ones until the bike is happy.
Steve

Just stay away from oil with friction modifiers ....Coug

20w50 Mobil1 V-Twin works good for me. (It cranks a little slower on the starter at around 25*F ...but who in their right mind except me rides in that bloody-cold temperature?)
As for these knocks people are talking about, I am convinced that it is "piston slap." Caused by not letting the engine warm right up before riding. A motor's cylinders will never heat up as fast as the pistons upon startup.
If you take off right away after a cold startup, you will be working the engine with extra fire in them there cylinders, which will expand the piston and cause it to wear the cylinders more since they haven't yet expanded as much as the pistons. Aluminum pistons expand like crazy! Sometimes you get a "collapsed" piston condition, where the hot piston has become scuffed due to being 'squeezed' in the colder cylinder and and will never again be the same size it should be, as the skirts are worn and causing the piston to rock in the cylinder causing a "knocking" sound.
Many new car owners complain to dealers of knocking and ticking sounds, and a good deal of the time it is because the manufactueres build these new engines to such tight tolerances, that the engines will not tolerate being driven hard when still cold.
I have NEVER riden my Roadie with warming it up, even on warmer days. And it has never had any type of knock or tick in the engine yet, no matter whatt oil I have used in it.
I agree with the fellow rider who is using Castrol Dino oil, there's nothing wrong with most any type of oil if it works fine for you, and you are comfortable with using it. (Quaker State sucks, in my opinion.)
Most importantly, keep your oil and filter changed and, Let her warm right up before riding, everytime.
Now lets' see what kind of feedback we get on this one afer "rattling the cage."