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TOPIC: Re:Rotella T6
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
I run the Mobil one in my Roadstar because I believe it is the proper oil for the Air cooled pushrod motor.. I ran castrol 15-50 for over a hundred thousand miles in a Goldwing, but different engine designs. I was flying for a man once, won't mention any names, That was using auto oil that he was buying from the local supplier in 50 gallon drums, because it was about 1/3 the price of Aviation oil. I had a catastropic engine failure due to the camshaft failure causing a forced landing.. The Faa was not to happy...It was a Pratt&Whitney R1340 engine, a air cooled pushrod motor..Which calls for Aero Shell 15-50. Not trying to tell anyone what to run, but I guess an enging failure on the Roadie is not quite as exciting as an Aircraft!!Might never have any problems running the cheapest oil you can buy. But not with my luck... Butch
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
 
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Last Edit: 2011/02/28 21:20 By scottw. Reason: update
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
ever since i had to rebuild the top-end due to the rear cyclinder getting damaged while using castrol v-twin oil all i have used is t6 and it is great, even in the summer time here in phx. when it is 118
 
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Last Edit: 2011/02/28 09:46 By mkayx.
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
Guys, guys... Shell says T-6 is recommended for bikes. It does not have the friction modifiers. It says right on the bottle that it meets two of the specific JASO requirements, though I don't know if those matter to our *s.

The R* owners manual for my '01s is very lenient for these things, they say to avoid oils with friction modifiers, and to use a 10w-30 or 20w-40. This isn't complicated.

We have low-stress, pushrod motors, like an old, unmodified, American V-8.

It's plenty good stuff, for a very decent price. I've been using it for quite some time, and it works just as it should.

I bought my 2nd '01 * last September, with 14k miles, and asked the guy what he'd used for oil in it... Quaker State 10w-40! I "recoiled in horror" at first, but it was obvious that no harm had been done, and it was within the Yamaha specs, as per their own manual. I bought it, and I'm sure glad I did.

Rotella T-6, on sale, is a great way to go!
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
I was not trying to tell you guys to run any particulsr type of oil. What I am saying is the Roadstar engine is not your typical late model bike engine... Most are overhead cammed, water cooled engines. Which is bascically like an auto engine. I still run castrol 15-50 in my Venture. Harleys and Roadies are different bikes than most. Therefore they are oil specific... Just keep oil in them, and buy the cheap stuff if you want. I prefer to go with the good stuff. I put a lot of miles on a bike in all conditions, and like to make sure it has the proper oil in it..expensive or not! Butch
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
tommyt wrote:
No.. NOT another oil post....tt

There's no such thing as a post that mentions oil, that doesn't turn into an 'oil' post.
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
Oreilly's has the Rotella this whole month for $10.99 I believe. Used it my Vmax, good stuff.
I use Mobil as the previous owner only used it.
 
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
Questcap wrote:
Guys, guys... Shell says T-6 is recommended for bikes. It does not have the friction modifiers. It says right on the bottle that it meets two of the specific JASO requirements, though I don't know if those matter to our *s.

The R* owners manual for my '01s is very lenient for these things, they say to avoid oils with friction modifiers, and to use a 10w-30 or 20w-40. This isn't complicated.

We have low-stress, pushrod motors, like an old, unmodified, American V-8.

It's plenty good stuff, for a very decent price. I've been using it for quite some time, and it works just as it should.

I bought my 2nd '01 * last September, with 14k miles, and asked the guy what he'd used for oil in it... Quaker State 10w-40! I "recoiled in horror" at first, but it was obvious that no harm had been done, and it was within the Yamaha specs, as per their own manual. I bought it, and I'm sure glad I did.

Rotella T-6, on sale, is a great way to go!

====================================================================

The onwers manual for my 06 silverados rec's lowest grade of 20w-40 not 10w-30 and no mention of it anywhere.

Thats too thin for the lrg air cooled v-trwin that runs hot in summer that had clearances built for 20-40 or 20-50 oil ,thats why yami doesnt rec 10-30 in the 06 owners manual .

You can get away with running 10-30 in cool temps buy why unless your riding daily in 20deg f temps.

Too bad they didnt test the T6 oil when the amsoil tested mobil 1 and other bike oils against their(amsoil) bike because i dont think i/T6 would fair as well as the other 2 oils. But dont know that for a fact because the T6 was never tested against those oils at same time in same test conditions ,its not a motorcycle specific oil anyway (though it did pass JASSO certification) and thats maybe why it wasn't tested,who knows./LOL!!!.

Scott
 
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Last Edit: 2011/02/28 21:57 By scottw.
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#350249
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Re:Rotella T6 3 Years, 4 Months ago  
Guys,heres what i got from the horse's mouth /Shell oil mfg on thier T6 oil which i posted here in RSC a couple months back when i asked them in refference to using it in our R*'s lrg air cooled v-twin motors with wet clutch along with as alway's (not that anyone gives a hoot!!) my take on it too/LOL!!!!!

Scott

==============================================================

UPDATE ON THE SHELL T6 OIL.

I got a responce back from the Shell oil tech on the T6 oil so heres the scoop 1st hand from the mfg.

1) I asked what the zddp(anti wear/anti friction) lvl was and its approx 1200ppm which is the bear minimum i would run with a stock ft cam'd R* motor with stock mild valve spring rates.

But i would not trust the 1200ppm zddp lvl for worked/beefed up R* with a hotter more agressive cams running considerably higher spring rates,for that you should have a min of 1350-1400ppm zddp or more but again for a stock R* 1200ppm should be ok.

Just for compairison sake i had seen oil testing where many bike oils had a minimum 1400ppm zddp or more ,amsoil had 1400ppm zddp and mobil 1 had 1700ppm zddp both syn oils for v-twins . So you can see the 1200ppm zddp the T6 has is considerbly lower then bike specific oils have that are meant for air cooled v-twins with ft cams. (Remember ZDDP reduces friction/sets up a protective boundry layer at a molecular lvl inbetween moving parts like cam lobes & lifters,rockers & pushrods,rings to cyl walls,etc (as required)when thing heat up enough to activate the zddp in the oil into action.

So the high quality bike oils like mobil 1 v-twin and Amsoils mcv syn oil with 1400-1700ppm zddp have considerably more antiwear protection then the T6 at the marginal 1200ppm lvl not to metion the fact the mobile/amsoil are proven top quaility/top performing syn oils too.

Just an FYI,shells rotella 15w-40 conventional oil in newer CJ rating since 1/2007 that many of you are running here only has approx 1050-1100ppm zddp & is really no longer good for the R*'s FT cams motor either. Is it better then most car oilks with 700-800ppm zddp yes but its still not good enough to ensure we alwyas get the proper long srv'c life we look for in our bikes and it does have frictions mods that arent that wet clutch freindly either.

2) I asked if the T6 had friction mods in it and the Shell oil engineer didnt answer that question so i would say it may have a small amount being a multi grade oil. Shell did say the T6 passed JASO clutch testing but didn't say anything else so i'd say in that case it's ok for the R* wet clutch since it passed the JASO wet clutch test.

But what i can also tell you is in the 4+yrs oil testing/oil research i did for team chevelle that any multi visc oil i asked mfg if had friction mods and it was yes every time .

So with my past 4+yrs of 1st hand experience with every multi visc oil i ask about (including conventional shell rotella 15w-40) having friction mods per oil mfg responce i expect the same for shells multi grade T6 too. I dont know that for a fact because the Shell oil engineer i dealt with this time would not ans that question on the T6 oil. Maybe that was because he knew i was asking in ref to wet clutches in bikes and didn't want me to know they in fact used fric mods in the T6 oil when it's JASO certified. But again i dont know for sure so don't mis quote me on that,thats just comming from my past exp saying more chance of yes then no.

3) I asked would they/Shell rec the T6 oil for a ft cam'd motorcycle and they said only if the motorcycle mfg rec 40wt/geade oil for the particular bike it was being run in.

Yamaha rec's the follwoing multi grade oils (in owners & factory srv'c manuals)depeding on yr from the ones i looked at which is 15w-40/20w-40/20w-50 so why run a multi visc oil that has a 3x lower grade base stock oil at 5w in the T6's 5w-40 oil when you dont have to and its also not rec by yami to run 5w base wt oil in a multi visc oil either,i wouldn't.

Remember,multi visc oil thats rated at 5w-40 starts out as a 5w oil then when it reaches proper operating temp for a truck motor (not an ait cooled v-twin motor)it then transitions to a 40w oil . So thats a 5w base stock oil 3x thinned to start out with when yamaha recs a 3x thicker base multi visc oil thats 15w or 20w for mult visc oil that end up 40 or 50 wt/grade whern they reach proper op temp for an air cooled v-twin bike motor and not a truck motor that operates at a much more stable likely lower temp on avg tyhen an air cooled bike motor does.

The R* motor is designed /built with bearing clearances setup for oil that starts out with 15w-20w and not 3x thinner at a 5w oil which is another concern. And the 5w base stock oil will shear/breakdown visc wise when the going gets tough before a 15w or 20w base stock oil will of approx = quality lvl.

And to also add it takes more chemical additives to get 5w-oil to 40wt when hot then when starting from a 15w 0r 20w base oil to get 40wt or 50wt oil when hot with a multi visc oil. And testing i have rvu'd over the yr's has shown/proven multi visc oils that have a larger spread bewteen base /cold wt to hot wt like shells T6 5w-40 has is a littlre more suseptable to thermal breakdown when all else meaning base stock oil and oil adidtive pkg's are = in quality etc.

Also,the couple times i tried to run a 5-40 oil vs 15-40 or 20-40 in a pass car motor with an oil presure guage the 5-40 oil always results in lower oil pressure when hot(esp in 90 deg heat) when at idle or when at cruise speed then oils starting out with 15w or 20w base oils even though they are all supposed to be the same 40wt when hot .

Its the thin 5w base oil and additional additives rqeuired to get a 5-40 oil up to 40 wt when hot that causes it to run s slightly lower oil pressure when hot then a 15w-40 or 20w-40 oil does.

So in summary from the info i just recieved from the shell oil tech i'd say the T6 oil is marganlly ok for a " STOCK R* ONLY that has mild valve spring rates due to the lower 1200ppm zddp lvl the T6 5w-40 oil has.

But for approx same money or couple bucks more you can get motorcycle specific (also JASO certified) oil that's better suited for the R* with a higher zddp lvl thats better for safe ft cam protection and also will better protect it from excessive heat too with no fric mods for sure that have been proven to be good quality oils thru extesive testing and being on the bike oil market for yrs now too.

That's why i prefer to run mobil 1 v-twin or amsoil MCV syn oil in 20w-50 in my R* so i know my $6K investment is properly protected at all times by a high quality lubricant that's meant for the application it's being run in vs a truck specific oil like Shell's T6 thats not the best choice for a R*,thats the main point i am trying to make here.

Just like the Fram OIL FILTER commercial used to say:

" YOU CAN PAY NOW OR YOU PAY LATER "

LOL!!!!

Just my $.02

Scott

Afterthought /suggestion for all you guys on a tight budget wanting to spend less but want a good high quality oil for your R*. Mobil 1's nascar endorsed hi perf 15w-50 full syn race oil thats approx $7.99 qt vs mobil 1 v twin syn 20w-50 oil at $9.99 qt is a decent alt oil to go vs the T6 that save's you $8 on an oil change vs the v-twin syn oil.

It has more zddp at 1300ppm thats rec for flat tappet cam'd applications but it does also have fric mods ,i got that right from the mobil oil engineer along with zddp lvl too.

But if you doint have many perf/power adding items ,dont ride 2 up much(or don't weigh as much as 2 avg peopledo/LOL!!!!),dont have bags loaded heavy often,dont ride in mountains -hilly areas a lot,and dont abuse-run the bike riding agressively often it's cases like that fic mods seem to be less likely to cause clutch slippage issues.
 
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Last Edit: 2011/02/28 22:51 By scottw.
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