When I helped Willy with his, we had to use a gasket scraper (razor blade on a holder) to get all the old gasket off. We also noticed that the Barnett spring plate has to be on the correct notch, we were counter clockwise by one the first time and the spring did not sit flush up on the basket as it should.

Also an old "Navy" trick for the stem, put some grease from a grease gun on it, it will hold it still while you align the cover. This was my second replacement so far. Mine and now Willy's. BTW.. Thanks EMU for the help on mine!

No problem anytime I can help.

I used a gasket scraper, razor type, and it worked well. Careful to keep all the old gasket material out as this area is oiled with the crank case and pieces of gasket are not friendly in the engine. Getting it all lined up and back together took about 5 trys for me and finally it slipped into place. Been working great for about a year now.

Thanks guys for posting this. I'm doing mine at the next oil change and now know what to expect.

Before you reinstall the cover, brush on a very thin layer of grease on gasket side going against he motor. It'll prevent the gasket from sticking & will make it easier to remove in the future....its easier to scrape the gasket off the cover than the aluminum block!!

Thanks for the tip about grease on the motor side, but I don't plan on doing this again...EVER!

Not because it was a pain, it really wasn't, but it was a learning experience. I don't plan on doing it again because these bikes are tanks and I figure now that I've got a much stronger pressure plate I'll be happy as a pig in slop for at least the next 100K miles.

-M7

Glad ya got it goin..............

Final Update (I hope!)

No parts left over and the bike still starts and runs.

No obvious leaks after a short hop and I can still shift gears!! There is a more noticeable lockup between the motor and the rear wheel with the new pressure plate. I should have done this long ago. I am going to have to adjust the clutch slack at the handlebar though. Still, all in all I'm happy with the results.

I think it could have been done in just a couple of hours if I had not decided to monkey with the fiber plates and simply replaced the pressure plate. Having the Roadhouse Duals did add about 20 min. to the total time needed for the job since I had to remove the left hand heat-shield chrome to get to one of the bolts needed to remove the cover.

Here's a tip for all you thinking of adding both the Barnett parts and duals. Do the Barnett first so you won't have to fool with any exhaust getting in the way.

Thanks to all who added advice and such. Once again it was RSC to the rescue.

-M7

Mark did you use the stock springs that came with the Barnett SR-2?

I used the springs that came in the box with the SR-2 (now 511-90-10002). I didn't know there was another option? Not that I'm gonna crack that puppy back open, but are there other springs that I should have used?

-M7