Hey fellas,
I have an 05 RS with about 8000 miles. I haven't any problems with it so far, and was wondering what I could do to prevent SVS and what some of the signs might be. Also, what are the best spark plugs for the RS, I figure its about time to change them(first time) and wanted you alls opinion. Thanks for yall's time
JM

If you have it jetted correctly, you shouldn't have any problems. Running rich is the main reason you carbon up valves. I use Autolite 4164 sparkplugs. They're cheap ($6 for 4) so you can change them often if you like. I do it a couple times a year.

There's also a thought on the amount of oil in the Bike.
Put 4qts in at oil change,any more may cause svs. that's with filter change. Not going to hawk any certain brand but I do think the synthetic works best.

Its not a bad idea to take your crankcase vent tube off the back of the airbox, and route it out under the bike. Even at 3.75 qts of oil like I run... I still had a little oil pooling up in the bottom of the airbox. Give it a treatment of seafoam or MMO every few tanks. A capful or two every few tanks wont hurt it any.

Don't use the choke anymore than you have to. Don't lug the motor. run it out in each gear. Try and hit the rev limiter at least once a day. Regular gas only.

If you put a dollar bill over the end of the pipe and it sucks in you have SVS.

You can read up on Sticky valve syndrome on the web search SVS or sticky valves .If your bike suffers from it you can tell easily by holding a kleenex to the pipe that goes bap bap bap ...."the rear cylinder pipe"useually and it will suck it in and spit it out obviously it should only blow it away from the pipe ....symptoms are and probably a few more ...* Runs fine when you first fire it up.
Within a block or two the engine starts to miss.
The rear jug starts cutting out going bap bap bap instead of boom boom boom.
The rear pipe sucks in, in addition to blowing out.
Engine has no power under any load.
Once the engine gets up to operating temp, it starts running 'much' better.
It's much worse in cold/winter conditions.
Flames shoot out the exhaust at night.
There are other symptoms, but these generally are due to the exhaust valves getting gummed up with goo. The goo grabs the valve stems and with the tight clearances, causes them to stick. When the engine is cold, the tolerances are pretty consistent and the valves can close. After a few minutes the valves heat up and begin to expand. The goo gets tacky and the valves stick. After the engine heats up fully (and you can finally ride the dam bike), the goo likely gets more viscous in addition to the stems expanding. This releases the valves and the engine runs on both jugs again. ......there are 2 approaches you can take .....you can run seafoam through her and she will run for a period of time....and that will depend on how you ride her and keep changing carb settings oil amounts etc.....you will see all this in your research and you can do as a few have done and take it to the dealer when it runs bad and he will run ringfree through it several times and when it locks up as his did they wil call the "Gods" at Yami and they will send down a tech bearing gifts"A rebuild kit In my opinion and some probably think its not worth anything..... go to the NHTSA web site and report your incident as it is a safety hazard...and you may want to let the dealer know you did this.Sorry if I got long winded but I think anyone who frequents this site will tell you I am not a Yami corporate fan....Coug

Buy a Honda! BB


(Just kidding, get your panties out of a wad!)

.... ...Coug

Is svs a recurring problem in the older 1600's, or primarily newer 1700's?

randlk wrote:
Is svs a recurring problem in the older 1600's, or primarily newer 1700's?

It's rare on the 1600's but it has happened.