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#439015
Questcap (User)
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
You mean to post comments with the builder's article? No, I didn't. I'm not a registered user at that site.
 
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#439040
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
Questcap wrote:
You mean to post comments with the builder's article? No, I didn't. I'm not a registered user at that site.

Well,

Not really. I don't consider the site worth registering to. I am registered by default as a member of one of my professional groups. However, some of the hyperlinks are worth looking at. Additionally, tHere are comments at the end that are also worth a gander. For the record, my comments eluding to do what works for you were simply my attempt to let folks know that I will nots judge someone on what or why they use what a product. For instance, because of this ,forum, I started using sea foam in my tank every oil change. Witin six months I had to have my bike towed to my mechanic because I could not,reach speeds over 20mph at full throttle.. They had to rebuild my mcarb because of gianthe builds up of a whites substance that 8had clogged virtually all intakes. They said it was my use of sea foam, WHICH THEY SOLD!!! So go figure, I am back to using Regian andad when they rejected the bike a month ago, the card was as a clean as when they had finished rebuilding it earlier. Oh s~}t, I put my foot in it again
 
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Last Edit: 2011/11/24 12:04 By Dragoon.
 
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#439124
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
Hahaha, that's a good one! FWIW, I've never yet put a drop of SeaFoam in my tank... until it exhibits some kind of symptom that it might cure, I'm not going to bother.

Okay, now that Dragoon has been sufficiently flogged for creating a new thread on oil... it's time to beat him over the head for dissin' SeaFoam!

Now, what's that other product you're usin' in the tank... Rogane?!?!?!
 
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#439161
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
Questcap wrote:
Hahaha, that's a good one! FWIW, I've never yet put a drop of SeaFoam in my tank... until it exhibits some kind of symptom that it might cure, I'm not going to bother.

Okay, now that Dragoon has been sufficiently flogged for creating a new thread on oil... it's time to beat him over the head for dissin' SeaFoam!
Now, what's that other product you're usin' in the tank... Rogane?!?!?!


Agreed that I deserve yet another. Flogging. One for the double disses and one for trying to type on this damn iPad keyboard . So, I change my oil every 3500 miles, about one a month or a little more often. I did as instructed an put two cap fills in the tank (I don't have the kahunas todo add it to mya oil like many do). If ride upwards of 60,000 mile a year when I am not pre op for back surgery,. This means my machine got a lot off Sea Foam. So I admit I may have been using bit wrong . What I do use at every oil change is gunout with REGIAN because it not only cleans the fuel system but ALSO lubdricates the Rubber,. Hence I have made my point again because I am sure there are folks who never hit above 60K in an average year.

So, I will admit it....ME BAD-ME BAD (ASS)
 
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Last Edit: 2011/11/25 09:47 By DocShadow.
 
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#439162
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Re:Sorry, its "THAT" topic agian 6 Months ago  
The only thing I have ever added to my bike is Stabil and only if it is going to sit for awhile.. I ride a lot in the winter so I only add if weathere is going to be bad for a while... Putting seafoam constantly in your tank is like taking Nyquil evernite before you go to bed... If you are not sick you don't need it!!!
 
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#439164
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Re:Sorry, its "THAT" topic agian 6 Months ago  
Yeh, Sta-Bil in the gas for the 3 months it's not ridden. The batteries are on tenders.

This year, if they fit through the basement slider, I'm bringing them both right in the house. I've got 2 jacks, and I'm going raise them and go through both of them very closely. Each need a little attention before next Spring.

But for the weekend, we're going to 60 or better... so, it's ridin' time! Whoohoo!!!
 
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#439171
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
Dragoon wrote:
http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=85dF_&m=1kaSYN884U0Ojn&b=oO_qFeDsTZJ8Xk3lBQWR8g

As few of you know, i am a life member of the National Street Machine Association. I am also a member of the Master Bike Builders Association and am about to go through all of their grueling tests to get my full credentials. I have been building bikes and tuning VAG cars for 15 years now and have had two of the Audi's i did featured in Audizine. What you may know is that I am firmly in the Mobile1 fully synthetic oil believers and have been since the mid 80's. So i thought i would post this article that came to me today from the Custom Choppers news letter i get each day. I hope you read it and can make up you mind once and for all which oil works best for you, and I am not advocating synthetics nor is the article.

Let the verbal rape begin

===========================

DRAGOON,if you haven't already seen this PLEASE take some time to read this very extensive oil testing done on mult oil mfgs motorcycle oils in 10w-40 & 20w-50 grades with a few being std dino/some semi blend & more full syn.

It was a very well thought out and documented test that seemed to have many if not all bases covered ,since your interested in oil you should enjoy reading it.

Heres the link to it.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhitePaper.aspx

When the lnk opens click on " While paper " in upper center part of page to get the full test with all result data,if you dont click on that tab the test data shown on the lower part of that front page as link window opens is only partial info leaving lots of good datat out on how each test was done along with its importance and result data too.

And your prefered oil Mobil 1 full syn motorcycle oil was tested so you can see how it did in tha test.

The top performoing oils weren't a big surprise to me but some of the middle of the road to poor perf oils did surprise me,was an intersting read.

Let us know what you think of this oil test.

Scott
 
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#439183
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I discard any study of any product by a manufacturer of that product because predictably their product come out as number1. I don't discount the great quality of Amzoil but this thread was NOT about brands If your look at this independent report, Amzoil does really well in most categories. However in the viscosity that I use being 15W50 Amzoil doesn't show and Mobile 1 is tops. AGAIN this thread was never intended to be about brands and, as usuall, the discussion has been diluted by resorting to those tactics.

I Have made my choice in oils as I am sure most have. And I respect that. I DID ENJOY THE READ AND HAVE ADDED THE DOc to my technicle library. Thanks.

Cheers
 
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Last Edit: 2011/11/25 09:55 By Dragoon.
 
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#439184
scottw (User)
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
Dragoon wrote:
http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=85dF_&m=1kaSYN884U0Ojn&b=oO_qFeDsTZJ8Xk3lBQWR8g

As few of you know, i am a life member of the National Street Machine Association. I am also a member of the Master Bike Builders Association and am about to go through all of their grueling tests to get my full credentials. I have been building bikes and tuning VAG cars for 15 years now and have had two of the Audi's i did featured in Audizine. What you may know is that I am firmly in the Mobile1 fully synthetic oil believers and have been since the mid 80's. So i thought i would post this article that came to me today from the Custom Choppers news letter i get each day. I hope you read it and can make up you mind once and for all which oil works best for you, and I am not advocating synthetics nor is the article.

Let the verbal rape begin

============================

Dragoon,i have been involved in oil research/testing for another forum (Classic muscle cars) over the past 5+ yrs so have been in the thick it not counting my 40+ yrs exp wrecning bikes/muscle car motors too and see 1 thing they completely overlooked thats very imporant along with a 2nd not as important issue that also needs to be expanded on.

1) The big diff between pass car oil mfg'd today/2011 and bike oil is the pass car & most truck &7 many diesel oil too have greatly reduced zddp lvls in that are critiacl to protecting motorcycle motors from excessive heat(esp lrg air cooled v-twin like R*) which isnt for obviuos reasons.

Also,even more important if the fact that old school flat tappet cam'd motors like R* & HD hasve need the ZDDP protection to avoid premature excessive wear between lifter/cam lobe contact area which is a real issues.

That was a real problem for the FT cam'd muslce car motors and i have also seen at least 6-7 R* /RSC memebrs th at had lifter/cams wear out prematurly too over past 1.5-2 yrs too,it can & does happen!.

A good/safe zddp lvl for proter protection in air cooled R* motors is approx 1250-1300ppm as a safe minimum,amsoil MCV & Mobil 1 v -twin both full syn bike oil in 20-50 showed 1400ppm & 1700ppm zddp respectively in oil testing i rvu'd.

Most pass car oils mfg today have approx 700-800ppm zddp vs amsoil/mobil-1 bike oil @ 1400 & 1700zddp respectively so pass car oil has too little zddp for lrg air cooled ft cam'd motors.

Truck /diesel oil is a diff issue,not all have had the zddp reduced to unsafe lvlv for ft cams,Chevrons delo 15-40 std dino diesel oil has 1300ppm zddp verified thru my oil testing and also from the mfg too. Shells 5-40 full syn rotella also has 1300ppm zddp but both these oils have fric mods not being wet clutch friendly.

But not shells rotella 15-40 std dino that had zddp redu ced below safe lvl for ft cams.
And 2nd point is when it comes to friction modificers & wet clutches.

2) It used to be only the lighter fuel conserving oils with the star on front label that had fric mods in them ,well thats not the case anymore.

I contacted mult oil mfgs on that issue too and they all said most all of thier pass car/truck oils mfg'd today even in heavier grades like 10-40/15-40/20-50 also have friction mods in them too.

So its not just the lighter fuel conserving oils that the fric mods in them anymore per oil mfg's which was not addressed either.

But will someone running pass car oil with fric mods & low zddp alwyas have clutch slippage or prematur Ft cam lifter wear ,no not always!

If you rid 1 up on flat road,no bag loaded,no widnscreen,no per/power increasing mods you may be just fine.

But install pipes/BAK/Jet carb/ported intake/dyna ign/maing for more power &trq,ride 2 up,bags fully loaded,run tall windscreen,often ride 2 up in hills/mountains / with bike fully loaded that thats when the fric mods can get ya in trouble even in bikes that are not known for have a weak clutch spring like we all know R* has from factory.

Also,as for FT cams/lifter running low zddp lvl ,if your bike/motor see's mostly over road driving with motor always at full oil pressure (70-80psi at speed vs 8-10psi @ idle) with little to no idle time & not overheating motor & oil often stopped in traffic /stop lights/stop & go traffic so no excessive heat then you can get by in some of those cases with minimal ft cam/lifter wear and have relatively no problems at all.

But ride often in high temps in traffic at times for more idling time at much lower oil pressure for greatly reduced oilig of FT cams/lifters or run perf cams with more lift & more agressive lobe design with higher valve spring rates creating a lot more friction between moving parts that are temporaarily getting less oil at idle while also being heated up more then normal and thats where have bike oil with the proper ZDDP for FT cams and air cooled motor is extreemly important to get the most yrs of problem free srvc.

The zddp sets up a temporary protective boundry layer between excessily heated up parts like lifter to cam lobe interface & rest of valvetrain parts,piston rings to cyl walls,wristpins to small end on conecting rods & where they seat in pistons,rod & main bearings etc protecting them from scuffing/gailing/scratching /premature wear in that situation and thats where pass car/truck oil with low zddp lvl's can cause premature wear for ft cam'd /air cooled motors.

Scott
 
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#439187
Dragoon (User)
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Re:Sorry, its 6 Months ago  
scottw wrote:
Dragoon wrote:
http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=85dF_&m=1kaSYN884U0Ojn&b=oO_qFeDsTZJ8Xk3lBQWR8g

As few of you know, i am a life member of the National Street Machine Association. I am also a member of the Master Bike Builders Association and am about to go through all of their grueling tests to get my full credentials. I have been building bikes and tuning VAG cars for 15 years now and have had two of the Audi's i did featured in Audizine. What you may know is that I am firmly in the Mobile1 fully synthetic oil believers and have been since the mid 80's. So i thought i would post this article that came to me today from the Custom Choppers news letter i get each day. I hope you read it and can make up you mind once and for all which oil works best for you, and I am not advocating synthetics nor is the article.

Let the verbal rape begin

============================

Dragoon,i have been involved in oil research/testing for another forum (Classic muscle cars) over the past 5+ yrs so have been in the thick it not counting my 40+ yrs exp wrecning bikes/muscle car motors too and see 1 thing they completely overlooked thats very imporant along with a 2nd not as important issue that also needs to be expanded on.

1) The big diff between pass car oil mfg'd today/2011 and bike oil is the pass car & most truck &7 many diesel oil too have greatly reduced zddp lvls in that are critiacl to protecting motorcycle motors from excessive heat(esp lrg air cooled v-twin like R*) which isnt for obviuos reasons.

Also,even more important if the fact that old school flat tappet cam'd motors like R* & HD hasve need the ZDDP protection to avoid premature excessive wear between lifter/cam lobe contact area which is a real issues.

That was a real problem for the FT cam'd muslce car motors and i have also seen at least 6-7 R* /RSC memebrs th at had lifter/cams wear out prematurly too over past 1.5-2 yrs too,it can & does happen!.

A good/safe zddp lvl for proter protection in air cooled R* motors is approx 1250-1300ppm as a safe minimum,amsoil MCV & Mobil 1 v -twin both full syn bike oil in 20-50 showed 1400ppm & 1700ppm zddp respectively in oil testing i rvu'd.

Most pass car oils mfg today have approx 700-800ppm zddp vs amsoil/mobil-1 bike oil @ 1400 & 1700zddp respectively so pass car oil has too little zddp for lrg air cooled ft cam'd motors.

Truck /diesel oil is a diff issue,not all have had the zddp reduced to unsafe lvlv for ft cams,Chevrons delo 15-40 std dino diesel oil has 1300ppm zddp verified thru my oil testing and also from the mfg too. Shells 5-40 full syn rotella also has 1300ppm zddp but both these oils have fric mods not being wet clutch friendly.

But not shells rotella 15-40 std dino that had zddp redu ced below safe lvl for ft cams.
And 2nd point is when it comes to friction modificers & wet clutches.

2) It used to be only the lighter fuel conserving oils with the star on front label that had fric mods in them ,well thats not the case anymore.

I contacted mult oil mfgs on that issue too and they all said most all of thier pass car/truck oils mfg'd today even in heavier grades like 10-40/15-40/20-50 also have friction mods in them too.

So its not just the lighter fuel conserving oils that the fric mods in them anymore per oil mfg's which was not addressed either.

But will someone running pass car oil with fric mods & low zddp alwyas have clutch slippage or prematur Ft cam lifter wear ,no not always!

If you rid 1 up on flat road,no bag loaded,no widnscreen,no per/power increasing mods you may be just fine.

But install pipes/BAK/Jet carb/ported intake/dyna ign/maing for more power &trq,ride 2 up,bags fully loaded,run tall windscreen,often ride 2 up in hills/mountains / with bike fully loaded that thats when the fric mods can get ya in trouble even in bikes that are not known for have a weak clutch spring like we all know R* has from factory.

Also,as for FT cams/lifter running low zddp lvl ,if your bike/motor see's mostly over road driving with motor always at full oil pressure (70-80psi at speed vs 8-10psi @ idle) with little to no idle time & not overheating motor & oil often stopped in traffic /stop lights/stop & go traffic so no excessive heat then you can get by in some of those cases with minimal ft cam/lifter wear and have relatively no problems at all.

But ride often in high temps in traffic at times for more idling time at much lower oil pressure for greatly reduced oilig of FT cams/lifters or run perf cams with more lift & more agressive lobe design with higher valve spring rates creating a lot more friction between moving parts that are temporaarily getting less oil at idle while also being heated up more then normal and thats where have bike oil with the proper ZDDP for FT cams and air cooled motor is extreemly important to get the most yrs of problem free srvc.

The zddp sets up a temporary protective boundry layer between excessily heated up parts like lifter to cam lobe interface & rest of valvetrain parts,piston rings to cyl walls,wristpins to small end on conecting rods & where they seat in pistons,rod & main bearings etc protecting them from scuffing/gailing/scratching /premature wear in that situation and thats where pass car/truck oil with low zddp lvl's can cause premature wear for ft cam'd /air cooled motors.

I edited my post so check the edit.
Scott
 
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