I've spent the last hour checking AFR monitors out, I like the K&N surface mount, you can get one off Amazon for 147.00 or an Edelbrock for 140.00.

It only comes with one o2 sensor, but one would give a good idea if the bike is going way too lean or not. These are just standard one wire o2's. They sell their extra o2 for about 80.00 bucks, but you should be able to buy one of these for about 25.00 and with two, you could switch them.

Of course a person could go to a garage and have them put the sniffer up the tail pipe for a lot less, but it would be handy to own since it would tell you of sudden changes.

I'm going to check some of the parts stores tomorrow to see if I can eyeball one. I think it would mount on a bike pretty easy.

I think one of these may be in my near future. Also when I get my factory manual it should tell how to enter diag mode and that will give a more accurate reading on engine temps plus a lot more information.

This is the gauge I run
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/images/MTXL_Blk_Blk.jpg

River wrote:
I was wrong apparently, the power commander eliminates the o2's.Some do and some don't. My unit is 50 state legal and utilizes the O2 sensors. My AIS is still connected, and yes the engine backfires and rumbles while decelerating. It also pops when I shift at lower rpms. Loud pipes save live right? So they know I'm coming or I'm beside them in traffic. I don't think removing the AIS will cause any damage to your engine. There is another sensor that I have never heard of any body disconnecting. There is an engine temperature sensor that is used to keep the engine drivable when cold. Even though the FI bikes don't have a mechanical choke there is a cold engine fuel enrichment function to the computer. I have converted several car engines to fuel injection and on the computer there is a "Choke" adjustment involved. The fuel injection systems I have used and will used as ofter as needed is the Holley Projection. Wonderfully simple and work great, just don't arc weld any thing on the car with them plugged in.

FYI- I just ordered the Innovative AFR gauge and plan on installing on my completely stock 2009 Roadstar. After I get it working and can run for a few weeks under various conditions and record my findings I then plan on adding my speedstar long drag pipes, BAK, and disco the AIS. I will note the AFR readings at each step and post my findings. I ordered two extra bungs and plan on moving the O2 sensor between pipes (both stock and the Speedstars) and recording each cylinders readings...

I'm open to additional suggestions to ensure I get correct readings. I'm hopeful to shed some light on the great "lean" debate with the various upgrades and AIS removal.

Rob

Rob
You are gonna love the AFR gauge. It is a cool addition to the bike . I find myself watching the #'s allot. It is a good tool and will tell you of a problem (like intake or exhaust leak) just by a change in the readings. But you having a FI bike that may not be an issue. Still a cool gauge to have.

Roadstar_Rob wrote:
FYI- I just ordered the Innovative AFR gauge and plan on installing on my completely stock 2009 Roadstar. After I get it working and can run for a few weeks under various conditions and record my findings I then plan on adding my speedstar long drag pipes, BAK, and disco the AIS. I will note the AFR readings at each step and post my findings. I ordered two extra bungs and plan on moving the O2 sensor between pipes (both stock and the Speedstars) and recording each cylinders readings...

I'm open to additional suggestions to ensure I get correct readings. I'm hopeful to shed some light on the great "lean" debate with the various upgrades and AIS removal.

Rob

That's fantastic Rob. I think that's going to answer a lot of questions for a lot of people once and for all (at least for the FI bikes)

Now this is what I'm talkin about. I've already mounted my iphone to use as a GPS. Using it to monitor A/F is perfect. Looks cool as well.

OT-2 WiFi Interface

Okay, I finally received the Yamaha Fuel Injection Systems book. One of the important tips is the air volume through the engine is calcualated not actually measured. "If any portion of the intake or exhaust system has some type of failure, not been maintained properly or has been modified or replaced with non-approved parts, all the calculations the ECU does for air volume could be totally incorrect. Therefore, the amount of fuel injected would also be wrong."

So, during Open Loop operation if more air is moving through the engine than is supposed to be for a certain throttle opening/engine speed the ECU won't know and continue on injecting the amount of fuel preprogrammed for the conditions. If more air is moving through then the mixture will be lean.

For the Yamaha FI bikes they use 3 different "maps" for Closed Loop operation. The Road Star falls in the group that only uses Closed Loop at steady throttle cruise (or at specific engine speeds, above an idle) Notice the O2 is ignored at idle.

The book came with a DVD. I'll see if things get more specific when I look at it.

Nice work Scott

I get that, but does that mean the wide band A/F monitor is giving a false reading when its a stand alone unit and not connected at all to the o2's that help control the FI?

That's why I put the monitor on, too find out what its actually doing.
Just going by the readings on the monitor mind you, the readings tell me that the ECM is injecting enough fuel. What it doesn't do is tell me what map the ECM is using or whether the computer is in closed or open loop of course.

What it does tell me unless I don't know how to read the monitor, which is pretty simple to do, in fact overly simple, is that at idle the mixture starts out at about 11.5, as the bike warms up it goes up to about 13.5 and stays there during idle. When you let off the throttle suddenly, there is a momentary spike to over 16, which is exactly what I expect with fuel injection.

When you get to cruise the reading is somewhere between 14 and 15. When you hit the throttle, the mixture richens and the monitor goes lower depending on how much gas you give it.

With the mods I have, it may be wrong, but so far it is within limits, in fact it is close to ideal.

What am I missing here Scott? I don't care what the book says, what I want to know is what the fuel system is actually doing?