I've found a local guy who is going to be doing the install of the emulator for me. I'm mechanically inclined but I don't have the confidence to play with something when I've only got two wheels. I figured it was more work than it seemed. He said he's done a few, and that's a few more than me, so... the $250-$300 sounds worth it to me.

Maybe I'll go with 7. The 10 sounds too firm for my tastes and the 5 seems like it wouldn't be enough. I'll call Race Tech to confirm.

Thank you all, as always!

I just put gold emulators in my forks. (still have to finish putting the rest of the bike together)It's not very hard at all. What surprised me is how much you open up (drill out) the damping tubes. I used 10w before w/ the small OEM holes, I'm going w/ the recommended 10w with the new set-up. I'll report back in a few days after the 1st ride. Just looking at it, I really believe it should make a BIG difference

250-300 is not bad for that job. I quoted 240 (4 hours) on the last one I did and got screwed cuzf all the crap the guy had hanging off the front of his bike. Had to take all that off and get it reinstalled again. Should have been another hour and a half for his stuff.

I didn't know that you had to put holes that are that much larger in the rod. So, I guess the 10wt will be what I go with. How'd it work out for you, Ironman?

losergamer04 wrote:
I didn't know that you had to put holes that are that much larger in the rod. So, I guess the 10wt will be what I go with. How'd it work out for you, Ironman?

the point of drilling the dampener rods with larger and more holes is to completly dissable the dampener rod so it does nothing. the emulator that you are puting in will now do 100% of the dampening

The Emulator has periphrial holes that allow low volume flow, which essentially allows the first part of your compression and rebound control be accomplished by the springs. Once the volume of oil that a bump tries to displace through these holes increases to a certain point (part of why viscosity is so important with emulators) The resistance to flow builds back pressure in the lower part of the leg, which is metered through the central valve of the emulator at a rising rate, so it continues to control rate of compression, and should prevent bottoming as well. Nose dive under braking is dramatically improved with Straight rate springs and cartridge emulators. Have never run emulators with progressive rate springs, so can't speak to that. My front and rear are straight rate on my SV with Race Tech springs and front emulators, and a 99GSXR750 rear Showa shock "re-purposed" onto it. The guys at race tech even helped with getting that shock right, including suggestions for fluid viscosity and nitrogen pre-charge.

losergamer04 wrote:
I didn't know that you had to put holes that are that much larger in the rod. So, I guess the 10wt will be what I go with. How'd it work out for you, Ironman?
works been too crazy (not complaining) Hope to finish the bike this weekend & take maiden ride. Will report back. Side note; I put a #465 in my buddies roadliner. It came w/ the stock 900lbs spring. All I can say is "WOW". I used to think his forks were so much better than mine. Now w/ the new shock, his forks suck ?