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TOPIC: Re:Phase 7
#484087
Spydr (User)
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
gfolkert wrote:
saab9k wrote:
1 x 2 x 3 blocks. I have 6 of them

I used to be a Mold Maker.

I have about (mumble) of them... a lot, I made them all as an apprentice.
10 sets of parallels.
I also got to make 2", 4", 6", 12" and a few other specialty right angle blocks during my work.
4 matched 12" machinists vices with matched radius pivots for using wring-able gauge block.
I got to make my radius gauges, my indicator bases and a few other things.

Among other things.


Is this a secret machinist code thing?
 
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#484098
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
Spydr wrote:
gfolkert wrote:
saab9k wrote:
1 x 2 x 3 blocks. I have 6 of them

I used to be a Mold Maker.

I have about (mumble) of them... a lot, I made them all as an apprentice.
10 sets of parallels.
I also got to make 2", 4", 6", 12" and a few other specialty right angle blocks during my work.
4 matched 12" machinists vices with matched radius pivots for using wring-able gauge block.
I got to make my radius gauges, my indicator bases and a few other things.

Among other things.


Is this a secret machinist code thing?


Not particularly. A 1" by 2" by 3" block are a default and forever used part of anyone in the Machining industry. Machine operators have them and keep a fairly nice set to work on their machines they operate. Usually these are very accurately hardened and ground to within 1/2 ten-thousandth of an inch (At least mine were back in the 90s, probably off now with seasoning/relaxation of the metals)

A set of Parallels is a couple pieces of steel that are hardened and then ground down to be a matched set... to ensure things sitting flat or parallel to the mounted surface or machine deck. My sets of parallels are usually sets of 4. Though my 12x2 set is a pair. Usually parallels are also ground with within a 1/2 ten thousandth of each other.

Right Angle blocks are used to hold pieces of metal at right angles to the deck/machine table to allow machining of an opposing end, and do it squarely (90 degrees exactly)... these are really rather forced to be exactly 90 degree and 90 degrees two ways to allow usage in holding with a fence or flipping.

Machinist vices in matched sets, that are made exactly the same and ground the same and hardened in the same process and then finished assembled and re-ground... with a built in matching 12" sine plate... are very useful. Especially with LONG pieces that have to be held at the same angle over those lengths. These are near invaluable.

Radius gauges are just that... to help you get a radius (like a 1/4" radius) correctly machines or ground. My set goes from 1/16" (1/8" hole) to 2" radius (or a 4" hole).

I built many indicator bases for Dial indicators (some long travel 4" some .1", some bases held by a machine's "chuck" others camped onto a machine to make sure a table it tracking right or to ensure you only go a specified distance... or for aligning a piece of metal/wood/plastic/modelling putty properly.

I also made various X-blocks (quad sided/sized V-Blocks ground to match the others) and other useful tools, like a full drill set "drill index" from a 80 gauge through 1", a couple of pin-vises, tap handles, die handles, thin scribes, etc... that many people just buy now a day.
 
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#484104
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
Booster wrote:
I just dropped the ball and spent a left nut on a Truck-Light Phase 7, Oh Lord please let me see the light.
Congrats! I almost pulled the trigger for the 239.00 ebay'er yesterday too but want to figure out the trim ring given the length of the light. With what I have seen online I like the P7 more than the P6.

I thought the stock ring would work because of how far the light sits back but looks like an extended ring may be needed. Keep us posted!
 
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#484120
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
Booster wrote:
I just dropped the ball and spent a left nut on a Truck-Light Phase 7, Oh Lord please let me see the light.
Looks nice. Since the lens are made of polycarbonate, I'd be interested in knowing how long before they turn yellow and opaque. That's one of the downsides to those lens and a good example are car lens. With age they all turn yellow. I think I'd rather stick with the glass headlights so when a rock hits them and shatters, I get my eye blinded.
 
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
There not suppose to yellow but only time will tell, I'm running a Cibie E-Code now and it's pretty good but there is some light loss directly down in front.

The block thing went over my head, does it have any thing to do with lights?
 
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Last Edit: 2012/04/27 09:07 By Booster.
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#484202
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
deadlion wrote:
Booster wrote:
I just dropped the ball and spent a left nut on a Truck-Light Phase 7, Oh Lord please let me see the light.
Congrats! I almost pulled the trigger for the 239.00 ebay'er yesterday too but want to figure out the trim ring given the length of the light. With what I have seen online I like the P7 more than the P6.

I thought the stock ring would work because of how far the light sits back but looks like an extended ring may be needed. Keep us posted!


SORTA shows how much it sticks out



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#484221
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
That ain't to bad (light with a chubby), I'm thinking I'll take my spot lights off cause I like the clean look better.
 
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
slothy wrote:
deadlion wrote:
Booster wrote:
I just dropped the ball and spent a left nut on a Truck-Light Phase 7, Oh Lord please let me see the light.
Congrats! I almost pulled the trigger for the 239.00 ebay'er yesterday too but want to figure out the trim ring given the length of the light. With what I have seen online I like the P7 more than the P6.

I thought the stock ring would work because of how far the light sits back but looks like an extended ring may be needed. Keep us posted!


SORTA shows how much it sticks out

Thx Slothy. Not as bad as I thought. I recall Ultrastar posting pics of a another ring he put on from another Yamaha bike that bolted right up. It seemed to be more extended that the R* ring.
 
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#484227
deadlion (User)
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
Booster wrote:
That ain't to bad (light with a chubby), I'm thinking I'll take my spot lights off cause I like the clean look better.
Agree, not bad. I'm also considering losing the light bar if I go with the P7 LED, mostly for looks though just like you said. Or, I'd go with some of the small LED bullet spots.

I figured I'd just wait until the bar breaks and just never replace it.
 
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#484231
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Re:Phase 7 1 Year, 1 Month ago  
deadlion wrote:
slothy wrote:
deadlion wrote:
Booster wrote:
I just dropped the ball and spent a left nut on a Truck-Light Phase 7, Oh Lord please let me see the light.
Congrats! I almost pulled the trigger for the 239.00 ebay'er yesterday too but want to figure out the trim ring given the length of the light. With what I have seen online I like the P7 more than the P6.

I thought the stock ring would work because of how far the light sits back but looks like an extended ring may be needed. Keep us posted!


SORTA shows how much it sticks out

Thx Slothy. Not as bad as I thought. I recall Ultrastar posting pics of a another ring he put on from another Yamaha bike that bolted right up. It seemed to be more extended that the R* ring.


i have a royal star tour deluxe ring on mine. it sticks out more and is angle cut as well
 
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