This is something I don't understand... why go and use something not meant to handle half the load if the tapered bearings? Tapered bearing are meant to handle the load that the bikes put in them due to the tapered design and roller bearings... not ball bearings... by going to the ball bearings they will wear faster due to the way they being used in the neck... they are meant for constant rotation in a up/down manner... tapered are meant for the pressure of the side to side movement, in which that's what our steering necks give... just thought I would throw that out there...

theGRINDER wrote:
This is something I don't understand... why go and use something not meant to handle half the load if the tapered bearings? Tapered bearing are meant to handle the load that the bikes put in them due to the tapered design and roller bearings... not ball bearings... by going to the ball bearings they will wear faster due to the way they being used in the neck... they are meant for constant rotation in a up/down manner... tapered are meant for the pressure of the side to side movement, in which that's what our steering necks give... just thought I would throw that out there...
That does make sense Tony

I Totally agree with TheGrinder. I did my steering bearings shortly after getting the bike and used stock Yamaha bearings with Green Marine waterproof grease. A real pain getting the lower race out and old bearings off the lower tree, but not too hard reassembling.

Ball bearings will divot shortly after installation in a steering head. I've seen it lots of times in other bikes (Yes, I was a certified Honda & HD wrench). Why anyone would want to go backwards like that makes no sense - my 2 cents.

OEM bearings are tapered roller bearings also. All Balls are popular because they carry most if not all the bearings you'd ever need. They're prices & service are good

So, how do you know if you have a bearing going bad, or the neck nut getting loose??

Put your bike up on a stand. Grab the forks at the front wheel axle and try to move it "fore and aft". If there is any play at all you need to either tighten the bearings or replace them.
To tighten them leave the bike on the stand. Remove the handle bars. Loosen the allen head bolts holding the tree cover. Remove the big nut in the center of the cover, and carefully remove the cover. You'll see the 2 nuts used to hole the tripple tree on. Remove the "lock nut". Tighten the bottom nut to the specified torque.....OR tighten the nut till the forks don't "fall" to either side from any position, but don't get it too tight. There is controvery about the top "jamb nut". Mama Yama says reinstall the rubber washer then put the jamb nut on so the grooves align with the lower nut. Some of the guys on here say leave the rubber washer out and "jamb" the jamb nut tight on the lock nut. Either way the grooves must be lined up to get the "keeper" back on properly.
If, after tightening them, you feel any "rough" spots it's time for replacement.
If the movement is smooth then put the cover back on. Tighten the big nut in the center to 92 ft-lbs. Tighten pinch bolts (hex head bolts). Reinstall handlebars and go for a ride.

I'm sure if I missed something someone will chime in.

get the front tire off the ground( lift) Watch the sweep(turning side/side) of the front fork. Does it bang into the steering head stops ? Carefully grab the bottoms of the forks. Have someone steady the bike if possible. Do the forks move forward/back ? If you have either of these symtoms, the bearings will probably need to be changed. Also, while the fork is off the ground, do you feel any bumps/ racheting when you turn the fork side to side ? This means the bearing races are pitted

Mine would clunk if I tapped the front brake when going slow,the lower bearing was toast,was rusted and cage fell apart the race was also heavily pitted. Used a set of All Balls bearings they are still tapered bearings not actual ball bearings I believe there was some confusion on that in post

Cool, thanks guys, I'm putting her on the lift tomorrow, and will check it then!!

my roadie had that dreaded decel wobble - rather frightening the first time it happened - which caused me to pull the stem and check. Bearing races were worn and had detents in them. New bearings, new grease, lots of torque, and voila, problem solved.