So I am reading this post and have a question.

Am I going to get sticker shock when I ask my local Yami to dial in my carb with V&H Strait shots and BAK?

What do I ask them to do?

I'm thinking of tackling this job myself with the help of my RoadStar Clinicians.

Just want to know what to expect to fix it, if I screw it up.

I currently get 44 MPG with lots of MO River Bottom riding. Lots of curves, hills and long flats. Great time, but not optimal MPG testing ground. This is with stock pipes and no BAK.

I would say to take it on yourself. That is part of the fun. With the help of these guys you're going to do a better job that the dealer will. You won't mess anything up just; just take your time and think before you punch a hole in the diaphram just kidding, you'll be fine.

Definitely gonna give it a try. Pipes should be in soon.

Tstar 03 roadstar wrote:
So I am reading this post and have a question.

Am I going to get sticker shock when I ask my local Yami to dial in my carb with V&H Strait shots and BAK?

What do I ask them to do?

I'm thinking of tackling this job myself with the help of my RoadStar Clinicians.

Just want to know what to expect to fix it, if I screw it up.

I currently get 44 MPG with lots of MO River Bottom riding. Lots of curves, hills and long flats. Great time, but not optimal MPG testing ground. This is with stock pipes and no BAK.

With that kind of mileage and that type of rds, I would bet my last buck that if ya went on the super slab and held a steady throttle, you would get the 50mpg.

But, since you are going to do the pipes and BAK, you can still get there, any way:

Don't forget to remove the AIS, very important when using after market pipes. Also suggest to port the manifold, a good port job can yield an extra 3 to 5 ponies.
If you do port, lap the surface by using 800 grit sandpaper on a smooth surface, go in a figure 8 pattern till nice and shiny, new o-rings and use some of the Hymolar to seal. Very very important to get the screws in all the way down first by hand, make sure they do not bind 1 iota. then tighten 1/4 turn at a time criss-cross pattern. And do not over tighten.

Also suggest to not run the crankcase hose to the back of the BAK, run a hose down or to a small filter, and seal the hole on the BAK.

Thanks for the info Erbman. Looks like I have some more research to do.

Is there a thread about porting the manifold? Planned on removing the AIS.

Here is a link to the tech articles Porting manifold

Might want to look under the tech articles. Not sure if there is or isn't one. I had a friend do mine 6yrs ago, but no longer run a stock manifold.

Thanks again Erbman!! JerryR appreciate you locating the tech article. I love me some RoadStar Clinic. My wife is a little concerned. Her banker husband is turning into a gear head.

P.S. We can let this thread go back to MPG's. Thanks for letting me borrow the thread to get my much needed advice.

I've got a 2005 1700 Roadstar with COBRA pipes. I normally run on the highway average 75mph and I've been getting between 35-38MPG max. Anybody got any ideas to get this better IE filter, Carb adjust ect besides slowing the monster down
Thanks

Blacky wrote:
I've got a 2005 1700 Roadstar with COBRA pipes. I normally run on the highway average 75mph and I've been getting between 35-38MPG max. Anybody got any ideas to get this better IE filter, Carb adjust ect besides slowing the monster down
Thanks

That is about right with the speed your doing. Going slower around 65 will bring the mpg back up to 40-45. Anything over 75 and your mpg goes south.