Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I don't want BlkcherryBomb to mess himself up. If you are going to take the carb completely off the bike. As in take it to the work bench, you should trace the wires back on the TPS and disconnect the plugs. Not take it off the carb? When I took my carb off I just took the PMS plug out with the TPS still connected.

Musky wrote:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I don't want BlkcherryBomb to mess himself up. If you are going to take the carb completely off the bike. As in take it to the work bench, you should trace the wires back on the TPS and disconnect the plugs. Not take it off the carb? When I took my carb off I just took the PMS plug out with the TPS still connected.

That's correct ..... and the article by Mr. Tidy on rejetting http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/60/96/ has a caution in big blue letters at the begining of the article.

Doc

Those are the directions I printed out. And he sure does make it clear in big blue letters. I do have experience on this because I figured I didn't have to look at the pics until I was ready to drill the hole in the brass plug. I didn't know that was the TPS and figured he forgot to mention this one piece. I had the Torx driver in hand. The only thing that stopped me was the post in the middle of the screw. That's when I decided to look at the directions again and after looking at the pictures I realized I was messing with the thing he said not to mess with. I just don't want anyone to make the same mistake I almost made. Or I can see someone figuring &quot;Hey why should I stay crouched here by the bike when I can take this off and go to the work bench&quot;. So I thought I would bring up the right way to do it.<br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2006/07/07 20:04

The rejetting your carb tech is some of the best written I seen.I copied all the tech sheets and then planed my attack. I`d even goes as far and call them vegasdave proof. And Doc buy the way have still left my carg settings alone(OK MAYBE I DID EXPERIMENT WITH THE PMS ALITTLE)but after my trip to {Thunder on The Mountain}in Brianhead ,UT.7-14 thru 7-15 am thinking of going to a DJ180 to get a little more MPG Later Guys

vegasdave wrote:
TAnd Doc buy the way have still left my carg settings alone(OK MAYBE I DID EXPERIMENT WITH THE PMS ALITTLE)but after my trip to {Thunder on The Mountain}in Brianhead ,UT.7-14 thru 7-15 am thinking of going to a DJ180 to get a little more MPG Later Guys

If your main is bigger than 180, then going down to a DJ180 will certainly help. If the 180 passes the WOT test then your laughing.

However, don't overlook the needle clip position as at cuising speed the needle is the primary fuel regulator.

The PMS is important and I as soon as I'm through this tankful I hope to have some numbers comparing the effect of PMS positon on mileage plus some other observations.

Going to Portland next week so hopefully I can get out and ride before I leave.

Doc

I planned my attack too!! It just wasn't the right plan I do think those directions are lacking because they don't tell you how to disconnect the TPS. (At least that I saw) Yes, I know it says not to but lets have a show of hands from everyone who has not ignored directions. Anyone who hasn't went ahead and connected part A to latch B and then went to screw on brackett D1 only to find out you can't because you were supposed to attach D1 but not tighten before you connected latch B? And I believe there was a mention of working at a bench. That would require disconnecting the TPS would it not? Clearly a violation of the Big blue rules and no info given on how to do it correctly. So did I mess up? Yup! Not the first time, won't be the last. I'm just trying to keep someone from doing the same.

Musky wrote:
I planned my attack too!! It just wasn't the right plan I do think those directions are lacking because they don't tell you how to disconnect the TPS. (At least that I saw) Yes, I know it says not to but lets have a show of hands from everyone who has not ignored directions. Anyone who hasn't went ahead and connected part A to latch B and then went to screw on brackett D1 only to find out you can't because you were supposed to attach D1 but not tighten before you connected latch B? And I believe there was a mention of working at a bench. That would require disconnecting the TPS would it not? Clearly a violation of the Big blue rules and no info given on how to do it correctly. So did I mess up? Yup! Not the first time, won't be the last. I'm just trying to keep someone from doing the same.

You don`t disconnect the TPS from the Carb Musky you just unplug it from the bike leaving it attached to your carb.

Well........I managed to get the carb apart and successfully remove the pilot jet. Everything looked fine. Cleaned it and also did the same on the main jet just to be sure. Got it put back together and went for a quick ride......Ran great.....until I got home. It took about 30 seconds to idle down from about 1200 RPM to 900, then it loaded up with fuel and choked itself dead. I had fuel coming out of the bottom of the airbox. Is the float stuck? How do I fix this one? It's driving me batty

Yes, it could be a bit of dirt in the needle seat which is keeping the needle from closing off the fuel.

Take it apart again This time clean out all the orifices. While you have it on the bench, check the float level. The 04-06 float level should be even with the float bowl mating surface.

I know it can be frustrating but be persistent and you'll eventually nail it.

Doc

Thank you Doc. I'm headed back out to the garage for round 2 right now.