Shoshin---"not that's it's happened to me!!!!" of course not--it was a friend--but yea--I agree with all here--a complete oil change (motor and transfer case)should take about 30-45 minutes--unless you decide to sit back and admire this great piece of machinery--that could add on about 30 minutes---then go RIDE!!!!!!! VROOM VROOM!!!!

DocShadow wrote:
The transfer case is just that .... there area two gears connected by a chain ... that's it. The oil in the transfer case baths the bottom part of the chain.

The tranfer case tranfers the rotational energy from the transmission to the front pulley through the chain.

The transmision does the shifting and is connected to the tranfer case by a shaft. The oil in the transmission is not shared with the oil transfer case.

DocNicely put there Doc. Man there is always something to learn here no matter what your skill level. Lone*Road*

I went out and did mine after reading the forum posts. Started the drain, went in and had breakfast, came back out and put the plugs back in and filled her up. I have V & H longshots on a 2000 RS and did not have to pull them off. The drain plug was easy and the check level was as well with a short allen wrench. The Fill plug came out fine with a long flat bladed screwdriver.

MS1700 wrote:
DocShadow wrote:There are no meshing gears in the transfer case ... let me repeat .... gear on right side connected to gear on left side by a chain ... just like a one speed bicycle.Doc

I got ya Doc, you can see right into the T case and I can see how it works i did take a look at the service Man. But what I am saying is maybe the resistance is less with better lube and it allows the speed to match the gear better, like 'Floating the gears" on a truck.

Just try to figure why it shifts easier and quieter with new lube. Becauseit don't make sense.

your answer is; the slack in the chain drive causes the clunky shift.
chain drives, especially the way we beat on them are prone to stretch. the drive also runs the engine's oil pump assy.

The Gardener wrote:
MS1700 wrote:
DocShadow wrote:There are no meshing gears in the transfer case ... let me repeat .... gear on right side connected to gear on left side by a chain ... just like a one speed bicycle.Doc

I got ya Doc, you can see right into the T case and I can see how it works i did take a look at the service Man. But what I am saying is maybe the resistance is less with better lube and it allows the speed to match the gear better, like 'Floating the gears" on a truck.

Just try to figure why it shifts easier and quieter with new lube. Becauseit don't make sense.

your answer is; the slack in the chain drive causes the clunky shift.
chain drives, especially the way we beat on them are prone to stretch. the drive also runs the engine's oil pump assy.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the oil pump was driven off of the clutch pack on the left side, not off the transfer gear/chain on the right?

Oil pump for the transfer case is an isolated unit and not part of the engine.
GL-4 requirement would be valid if the transfer case had white metal bushings that could be corroded by older versions of GL-5 fluids, but to the best of my knowledge it does not. Some quality fluid manufacturers, including Amsoil, have stated their GL-5 is non-corrosive, but for peace of mind Amsoil offers a full synthetic 75-90 gear lube with a GL-4 rating. I have a feeling that Yamaha is being proprietory in specifying their GL-4 - it's all they've ever supplied. I haven't seen any on a dealer's shelf for years.

Shoshin, do a search for the service manual, I'd post it for ya but it's against company policy..

MS1700 wrote:
Ok I am not the brainiac How to guy, But I do like to see pics and gather tips. here is my how to on the Transfer case oil change I did on a 07 102 Yours will be similar.

Tools you will need, 1/2 drive ratchet, extension, 13mm short socket, I used a large washer covered by some paper so as not to scratch chrome when turning Fill Plug.... and who the hell knows what Allen wrench that is for the Check Hole?

This is how much Transfer Case Oil you will need. right from OM. Any Questions? 1 US Qt. will get you two changes.

This is spec on Oil right from the OM any debates? Plenty in a search to read.

In debates, It was determined Not all GL 5 can meet GL 4 Spec. So be careful what you use. Be sure it meets GL 4 Spec, This Lube does both and says so right on the container.

It also says good for Motorcycles, so, of all on shelf this was only one that said GL 4 and good for motorcycles, it was 2X's more expensive than Mobile One at $15.99 US dollars on 3/28/2009 At Auotozone.

This is what I landed on. Royal Purple, yes sir, nothing but the best for the Amsoil dealer!

First find out how bad a shape you are in now, Bike must be very level for a correct reading, on the kick stand won't get it, on a jack on a level surface will. Then remove this plug with proper size Allen wrench and some fluid should creep out. That means you were good. Large marked hole above check hole is fill hole.

this is Drain Plug hole right side of bike folks, just above brake line in SIDE of transfer case, not bottom. A 13mm socket will remove this.

This gives you a better shot at location.

Ahhhhh I wish I read here somewhere I should have had a crush washer handy for this job, but I missed it somehow so I had to re-use mine even though it is against my religion. (Whatever that is)

While the Warm oil is draining, remove the Fill hole plug with a large washer with some tape or paper over it so as not to scratch your Chrome.

Pic of three plugs you have cleaned and set aside where you will kick it into the drain at some point.

Ok now re install the drain plug after all fluid has drained out. Pay attention to the torque, it's not nearly what you you think it would be. I bet it would be easy to strip, so get your torque Wrench out I forgot to mention.

While we are on that subject the Check Hole requires even less torque! (but leave it out just yet.)

Now fill using the Gear Lube you choose with every ounce of your conscience. (Whatever your heart desires)
When it starts to come out the Check hole, your there! Now put check hole plug back in for now and give it another little bit of Gear Lube.

Now put the fill Plug back on and Run the bike a Bit in gear. I did mine on the jack, but I like to live on the edge, nothing that is almost as thrilling as a good ride than Sitting on your bike aimed at a steel door and running through the gears and watching the speedo top 80 and wonder what would happen if this thing falls off the jack right now! You may want to try it. Anyways, Spin it a bit and re check level through the check hole. Fluid should be at bottom of check hole with bike level side to side and front to back. (worry more about side to side)
Now take her for a 10 mile spin and re torque all the plugs to spec. I would not skip on this. And I would re check in 50 miles.

This is a 15 min Job, You should never pay to have this done. It's a 10th of a Wrench in difficulty.
I followed this procedure and it worked for me. I have a 2001 and drain hole bolt is 12mm not 13mm.
THanks!

Uh...stupid question. but I'll ask it.... Does the fill plug pop out or screw out because mine does neither.

EDIT
Question answered...I saw on another post where someone said to be careful not to cross-thread it, so I guess it screws out.

Problem I have is that on my 99' I have V&H Longshots and the plug is completely behind them. I tried a washer with vise grips from behind the pipes, but I only succeeded in bending up the washer and scratching up the plug(with the tape...ouch). I'm contemplating taking off the pipes completely...which is WAY more than I wanted to get into or know how to do correctly. I'm thinking I'm going to revisit this issue in the morning. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I know it ain't clean and pretty....but it's my everyday ride and I love it!

I wanted to send a pic...but it won't let me....thanks ahead for any replies.

As you've already found out, chrome scratches pretty easy ...I'm afraid you will have to bite the bullet and pull the pipes keep from scratching everything up....but that's not too big of deal since you only need to do it every 15-20k miles...