Rubber Duck wrote:
Nice job Shamrock,bags definatly look better lowered.For those who removed the belt guard to keep from hittin it aren't you worried you will now hit the belt and cause damage.I lowered my bags also and hit the guard.Since I kept hitting w/ them lowered I put the leather bags back on because I dont like the looks of the bags not lowered

Thanks man! I think it would be hard to hit it with the bags on. You would almost have to try to hit it. I ran my old softail with no guard for years and it did not have bags. Never had a problem.

Rubber Duck wrote:
Nice job Shamrock,bags definatly look better lowered.For those who removed the belt guard to keep from hittin it aren't you worried you will now hit the belt and cause damage.I lowered my bags also and hit the guard.Since I kept hitting w/ them lowered I put the leather bags back on because I dont like the looks of the bags not lowered

It depends on what bracket you used to lower but the guard sits higher and further out. So depending on your bracket it could likely clear the rear pulley on deep compression and would likely also clear the belt and not cause damage.

Excellent! Great timing as well!
RE: Belt guard clearance...
If you were to raise and support the bike properly as if you were doing the "flip-n-grind" lowering technique, you could disconnect the linkage and manually lift the rear suspension and check your clearances with the belt guard on AND off.
I've just finished the mock up of my rack mount for the new trunk, so, now that I've seen your mod, I may have to redo to rack mount and lower it about 1.5". Nice mod and easy. Not sure what you paid for the 4 U-bolts but I would suspect that a piece of flat bar stock would be cheaper and the cutting and drilling is minimal. Before you run out and buy 1/2" conduit, stop by a construction site and ask for some scrap or flag down an electrician at the gas station.
One question, where in the building supply did you find that collar? I see that it is a 3/4" coupling, might be able to use a standard steel 3/4" EMT coupling, screw or compression type. Just be sure to shoot some clear coat on it or paint it black.

BSwift wrote:
Excellent! Great timing as well!
RE: Belt guard clearance...
If you were to raise and support the bike properly as if you were doing the "flip-n-grind" lowering technique, you could disconnect the linkage and manually lift the rear suspension and check your clearances with the belt guard on AND off.
I've just finished the mock up of my rack mount for the new trunk, so, now that I've seen your mod, I may have to redo to rack mount and lower it about 1.5". Nice mod and easy. Not sure what you paid for the 4 U-bolts but I would suspect that a piece of flat bar stock would be cheaper and the cutting and drilling is minimal. Before you run out and buy 1/2" conduit, stop by a construction site and ask for some scrap or flag down an electrician at the gas station.
One question, where in the building supply did you find that collar? I see that it is a 3/4" coupling, might be able to use a standard steel 3/4" EMT coupling, screw or compression type. Just be sure to shoot some clear coat on it or paint it black.

The U-bolts were a dollar and change a piece and the smallest piece of straight iron was $5.00 so it worked out about the same, BUT the straight iron would be stronger and therefore I am going that route anyway. The small 4 foot section of conduit was only a couple dollars. The most expensive thing were the collars. They were just under $6.00 each and were in the pipe/plumbing section in the same rack as the normal hose clamps. I only paid about $22.00 for everything so it is definitely a cheap mod. I did already have a pipe cutter and some of the bolts though. The only other expense will be the chrome fasteners and spacers, so the whole job should still be under $50. I am fairly certain the belt guard is going to have to be removed unless spacers are installed, which personally I would rather remove the guard because you really can't see it with bags anyway and the bags look much nicer the closer to the fender they are IMO. As far as the saddlebag bracket contacting the belt with the guard off - that won't happen with this set-up. The guard sits off the pulley a good 1/4 inch or more and the bracket is just barely touching the guard with a heavy push on the rear suspension. Good luck with your install!

I just got to measuring the exhaust side and I can't get the full three inches with the Cobra pipes. I think I can safely get 2 inches and I might shift them to the rear to maintain the contour of the rear fender. I just really like your mod. Inexpensive and easy. Good job!

I just looked at your sig pic and you have 2-1 cobra now that may be a problem getting the 3in

My mistake

A little late but, nice job shamrock! I've got a new project.

OK I got them installed to my satisfaction. I upgraded the upper mounts with some 1" flat steel that I bent to bring the bags out slightly. I also decided to not use the U-bolt on the left side. I used 1" spacers on both sides and used the same 1" steel from the upper mounts to make a "top" for them. Now both sides appear to be the same, but upon close look you will see that the left side bracket is turned 90 degrees from the right side bracket. They are VERY sturdy now. I haven't taken the test ride yet, but when given a good push on the rear suspension nothing even comes close to making contact (I did remove the belt guard though). I still need to remove everything for paint but here are a few pictures...

Right side mount...



Left side mount...





Upper mounts...







Rear view...



I will get some full view pics when I get everything painted.

Mr_Sharmrock,
Did you shift the position of the mount rearward any or just down?