First let me start with a disclaimer. I am in no way responsible for you screwing up your ride, yourself or someone else by you making this modification. This is just what I did and it works ok for me. So don’t blame me if you are a D.A “and I don’t mean district attorney” because you trashed you carburetor or set yourself on fire with the soldering iron and the gas you did not empty from the carb.

The materials are easy to find. What you will need is:
Soldering iron,
Solder “I used silver solder because it is stiffer. It is available at your local hardwarestore”,
Sonic weld “a two part epoxy that comes in a stick form”,
Control rod set Stranded Cable type “get it at any hobbies shop. It is used for control cables on radio controlled aircraft. The one I used was a .063” galvanized steel cable. I would not go any smaller in size a little larger is ok”,
Scraps of metal to make a bracket,
Drill bits and drill.

First start by removing your carburetor. Also it’s a good idea to drain the gas from it. Now, Remove the PMS screw. Also take the spring and the o-ring off of the screw. The heat from the soldering iron won’t do them any good.
Tent the top of the PMS screw and also the end of the control cable with a little solder it will make it easier to put them together. Be careful soldering the PMS screw you don’t want to get solder flowing into the threads. I had to remove the top two threads on mine “no biggie”. Once you have them tented solder the cable to the top of the PMS screw. It will make things easier if you will drill a small hole in a piece of wood so you can stand the screw up. Try to get the cable as close to center and as vertical as possible.
You will notice that I made a small bracket that bolts on with one of the bowl screws. I do not think this is necessary but I did it to remove any lateral strain that may be on the cable at the PMS screw. DO NOT epoxy the nylon tube to this bracket. If you are the smallest bit off on the conection between the cable and the PMS screw it will make it very difficult to turn the cable when you have it all installed. If you use a bracket make the hole a little larger than the nylon tube to allow for this.
Now you can mount the adjuster end just about any where you want. I put mine between the back pushrod tubes and the cylinder. It is hidden and just about invisible when ever thing is done. It is also still easy to reach when you a sitting on the bike.
You will need to make another bracket to hold the nylon tube. Make a “dry fit” before putting the epoxy on the bracket and the nylon tube. It’s a good idea to put the epoxy on them with them in-place. I did it before cutting any of the tube or the cable to make sure I did not cut off too much. While the epoxy was hardening I used a marker to mark the location that I cut the nylon tube.
Once the epoxy is hard remove the carb and the bracket cut the nylon tube and the cable. I left the cable just long enough to stick out past the pushrod tube. You will see that I also used a small piece of fuel line to add some heat shielding to the nylon tube. I did not want it melting being that close to the cylinder. I soldered a small piece of the cable at a 90 deg angle to the end of the cable to make a little lever for the adjuster “ you can get a little more creative and solder whatever you want on the end” SOLDER IT ON LAST. If you don’t you will have a difficult time putting the piece of fuel line on over the nylon tube.<br><br>Post edited by: BamaStar, at: 2005/07/31 19:03

well piss on the pics i cant get it to let me up load them
<br><br>Post edited by: BamaStar, at: 2005/07/31 01:35

BamaStar,

Thanks for the tip. Good write-up.

Need pics

I'll get back to you soon.

Doc

If any one wants pics send me a pm with your email adress .. indicate if u have dialup or broadband

This is a great idea..

GRAM