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TOPIC: Re:lifter inspectons
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Questcap (User)
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
I'm not willing to pay $14.95 for 8 oz. By the gallon, it's not much more than $1 an oz. If they say don't use it with our wet clutches, then perhaps everyone should follow their advice. Back when I checked a good many years ago, they said it was compatible, and I've used it in my bikes since. I see no reason to stop now, since I've experienced no clutch slippage....
 
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
Questcap wrote:
I'm not willing to pay $14.95 for 8 oz. By the gallon, it's not much more than $1 an oz. If they say don't use it with our wet clutches, then perhaps everyone should follow their advice. Back when I checked a good many years ago, they said it was compatible, and I've used it in my bikes since. I see no reason to stop now, since I've experienced no clutch slippage....
Paying that price for the small one now because I'm not willing to pay for a gallon for a product I haven't tried yet. I never go with the big size right off the bat unless we're talking about cheeseburgers or beer.. in that case ALWAYS the large sizes. They say the same thing about some engine oils not working with wet clutches and yet many do fine. I've used Mobil 1 for years and although I did have some slippage prior to installing an EBC spring I don't think it was due to the oil.
 
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Last Edit: 2017/10/10 22:41 By ctkog.
 

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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?
 
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?


It wouldn't hurt to check it and it only takes a few minutes to do while you are already in there, but if it wasn't a problem before and you didn't mess with the adjuster screw you shouldn't need to do anything with it. The adjuster only synchronizes the opening of both valves it is not a lash adjustment like a solid lifter valve adjustment.
 
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Last Edit: 2017/10/11 19:30 By davej.
 
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?



The hydraulic valve-lifting mechanism maintains a valve clearance of zero so for the most part valve clearance adjustments aren't necessary on the r* (per the manual). But it's a real simple to check for zero backlash, and I would want to make sure I'm as close to zero backlash as possible so I don't have a noisy valve train.

After tightening down your rocker bolts, with the cylinder at TDC check the intake pushrod with your fingers. There should be no up and down movement. If you have no up and down movement move on to the exhaust and do the same check. If you have up and down movement adjust your rockers until the movement is gone. It's better to know that the rocker is making slight contact with BOTH intake valve stems than to have slop and noise in your valve train IMO (same with the exhaust). I believe hydraulic lifters are meant to have some preload anyway so being sure you're contacting both stems is not going to hurt anything and give you a quieter running roadstar.
 
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Last Edit: 2017/10/11 20:20 By ctkog.
 

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#1023877
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
ctkog wrote:
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?



The hydraulic valve-lifting mechanism maintains a valve clearance of zero so for the most part valve clearance adjustments aren't necessary on the r* (per the manual). But it's a real simple to check for zero backlash, and I would want to make sure I'm as close to zero backlash as possible so I don't have a noisy valve train.

After tightening down your rocker bolts, with the cylinder at TDC check the intake pushrod with your fingers. There should be no up and down movement. If you have no up and down movement move on to the exhaust and do the same check. If you have up and down movement adjust your rockers until the movement is gone. It's better to know that the rocker is making slight contact with BOTH intake valve stems than to have slop and noise in your valve train IMO (same with the exhaust). I believe hydraulic lifters are meant to have some preload anyway so being sure you're contacting both stems is not going to hurt anything and give you a quieter running roadstar.



That is not at all the type of adjustment are bikes have. The adjuster on our bikes is a "synchronizing adjustment only". There is no pushrod up/down movement adjustment going on. It's obvious you have never had the valve cover off on a Roadstar to see what the adjustment is all about. The adjustment "ONLY" insures that both valves per cylinder (Intake and exhaust) open at the same time. Only 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve per cylinder has an adjustment screw. Our bikes have 4 valves per cylinder and 2 rocker assembly's per cylinder. That is why synchronization of the valves is needed and only 1 adjuster per rocker assembly.
 
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months, 1 Week ago  
ok engine running.

thanks for help
 
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months ago  
davej wrote:
ctkog wrote:
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?



The hydraulic valve-lifting mechanism maintains a valve clearance of zero so for the most part valve clearance adjustments aren't necessary on the r* (per the manual). But it's a real simple to check for zero backlash, and I would want to make sure I'm as close to zero backlash as possible so I don't have a noisy valve train.

After tightening down your rocker bolts, with the cylinder at TDC check the intake pushrod with your fingers. There should be no up and down movement. If you have no up and down movement move on to the exhaust and do the same check. If you have up and down movement adjust your rockers until the movement is gone. It's better to know that the rocker is making slight contact with BOTH intake valve stems than to have slop and noise in your valve train IMO (same with the exhaust). I believe hydraulic lifters are meant to have some preload anyway so being sure you're contacting both stems is not going to hurt anything and give you a quieter running roadstar.



That is not at all the type of adjustment are bikes have. The adjuster on our bikes is a "synchronizing adjustment only". There is no pushrod up/down movement adjustment going on. It's obvious you have never had the valve cover off on a Roadstar to see what the adjustment is all about. The adjustment "ONLY" insures that both valves per cylinder (Intake and exhaust) open at the same time. Only 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve per cylinder has an adjustment screw. Our bikes have 4 valves per cylinder and 2 rocker assembly's per cylinder. That is why synchronization of the valves is needed and only 1 adjuster per rocker assembly.


I have dave. There's a way to do it to where both are in contact. I've replaced my lifters before.

I'm not sure where I said there is more than 1 adjuster on each rocker. I can't find it.
 
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Last Edit: 2017/10/12 15:24 By ctkog.
 

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#1023896
texasscott1 (User)
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months ago  
I guess he was trying to figure out how adjusting the rockers would eliminate up and down movement in the pushrods. The only way that can be done on the Road Star is with adjustable pushrods. With the stock pushrods the preload is built in.
 
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My 99 Standard Test Mule
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#1023901
davej (User)
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Re:lifter inspectons 2 Months ago  
ctkog wrote:
davej wrote:
ctkog wrote:
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?



The hydraulic valve-lifting mechanism maintains a valve clearance of zero so for the most part valve clearance adjustments aren't necessary on the r* (per the manual). But it's a real simple to check for zero backlash, and I would want to make sure I'm as close to zero backlash as possible so I don't have a noisy valve train.

After tightening down your rocker bolts, with the cylinder at TDC check the intake pushrod with your fingers. There should be no up and down movement. If you have no up and down movement move on to the exhaust and do the same check. If you have up and down movement adjust your rockers until the movement is gone. It's better to know that the rocker is making slight contact with BOTH intake valve stems than to have slop and noise in your valve train IMO (same with the exhaust). I believe hydraulic lifters are meant to have some preload anyway so being sure you're contacting both stems is not going to hurt anything and give you a quieter running roadstar.



That is not at all the type of adjustment are bikes have. The adjuster on our bikes is a "synchronizing adjustment only". There is no pushrod up/down movement adjustment going on. It's obvious you have never had the valve cover off on a Roadstar to see what the adjustment is all about. The adjustment "ONLY" insures that both valves per cylinder (Intake and exhaust) open at the same time. Only 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve per cylinder has an adjustment screw. Our bikes have 4 valves per cylinder and 2 rocker assembly's per cylinder. That is why synchronization of the valves is needed and only 1 adjuster per rocker assembly.


I have dave. There's a way to do it to where both are in contact. I've replaced my lifters before.

I'm not sure where I said there is more than 1 adjuster on each rocker. I can't find it.


As I said synchronization "ONLY" That is when they are "Both in contact" as you are now calling it. There is no Up/Down pushrod adjustment. With the exception that Scott mentioned with adjustable pushrods. that is not the case in this situation. I have those on my bike due to a Big Bore kit and PR cams "I" installed. You never actually said there were 2 adjusters but you sure did try and make it seem as if there was an Up/down pushrod adjustment along with the adjuster on the other side of the rocker. Also the way you described the adjustment procedure is completely wrong also. Read the manual for the correct procedure.
 
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