HA once again a dealer inserts his size 11's (shoes that is) firmly into their mouth.

ALL spin on type oil filters have a bypass valve and a back flow valve.

The bypass valve is there in the event the filter gets clogged the valve opens and the oil still gets to the valuable parts in the middle of your engine. The differences between filter models is in the pressure that the bypass kicks in based on the target vehicle and its designed oil pressure. This is something you may want to check on to make sure your favorite brand/model of filter meets the Roadie spec, I could look it up but I am too lazy today.

The backflow valve comes into play so the oil cannot flow back through the filter thereby washing all that nasty stuff in the filter back into the oil.

Like I said at the beginning, all spin on type filters have these features so it is not just a miracle of Yamaha engineering. Next thing they will be telling you they invented the Internet......

I belive my local Yamaha dealer has patented the new fangled synthetic oil he is now flogging, must be since he is charging $20 a quart.

2Sheds

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml

Great detail on a number of popular oil filters for our scoots. The Yamaha filter ranks near the bottom of the list for quality of materials used.

Millions in research that's a good one

Well I'm the type person I have to try out all the hype I hear. I've always just made the hour drive to my local yami dealer and gotten their stuff,,,today I rode 1/2 mile to the local WallyWorld and picked up some Mobil 1 VTwin 20/50 and a Fram MOTORCYCLE filter not a car filter. I just got it changed, so I havn't ridden it yet, I will put a few miles on it tomorrow!....btw, I like the smell of the Mobil 1 better than the dino!....and as for the filter concerns I never could read that japaneese writing on the yami filter!!!!! The Fram filter is made in Canada and has english writing!!! So for you Canadians, I just boosted your economy!!!!!!!!

you know when I was at Star Days this year, I sat in on the maintenance seminar they had hosted by yami. I heard pretty much the same thing from yami reps that the oil filter and their oil are special similar to the deal your dealer was telling you. I didn't buy the bag of dodo they were selling either. It was an interesting seminar though.

A question....Is the by-pass valve in the filter; or is it in the filter mounting?

The reason I ask is that some engine manufacturer's (most I think) have the by-pass valve in the filter mounting - attached to the engine; whereas others require the by-pass valve to be inserted into the spin-on filter.

I think I've just answered my own question. See link below:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html


Look down to section 'Filter Bypass and Anti-Drain Back Valves'. There's a diagram that shows a typical example. I'm not sure about the Yami filter, haven't had the need to open one up but next chance I get I will.

My two cents worth of insight. I have worked at dealerships on and off for about seven years, I have raced motocross locally and nationally for eighteen years, my brother owned a Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki dealership for several years in central Indiana. 60% of a dealerships profits come from the parts dept., a Honda dealership makes an average of $300.00 on new unit sales, thats from 50cc to goldwings. Not all stealerships are out to screw you. They are losing out huge to online sales. I am not defending what some dork told you about oil, or filters, he is dead wrong. My Roadstar is my first cruiser, I run Mobil 1 superclean 5000 and Fram filters. I do know for a fact that Yamaha factory racing bikes, motocross and roadracing, do run Yamalube oils. I once saw Jeff Stanton's mechanic (multi-time national motocross and supercross champion) at Red Bud in Buchanon, Mich put Yamalube R premix in his factory Honda race bike! I live in Indianapolis, and have a very good friend that was VP of Cheever Racing (Indycars) and he swears that 99% of all Indycars regadless of their sponsors run Mobil 1 oils. Oh ya, and I work on my own Bikes!

Yamalube R premix is pretty good 2-stroke oil. I used to run it in my Suzuki RM125 and RM250 back in the 1980's. Very good results....clean burn and good lube.

So, Yamalube is a good line of lubricants. However, if you think about what the R* is, it's so unlike most other Yamaha products, it seems like a special oil might be appropriate.

Having said that, I threw some dino oil in at 1800 miles because I feared that going synthetic at 600 was too early....maybe the bike wasn't breaking in. So with 2400 on her I'm going to Mobil 1 and we'll see.

I hope it quiets down a bit, but I love it either way.

Filter: I'm using the Wally SuperTech for now. When I settle down on all the oil changing and start running a synthetic oil out a bit longer, say, 5000 miles, I think I'll go for a premium filter like K&N.

Thoughts?

The reason for not running synthetic oils during break in is because newer metric bikes have nikasil plated cylinders, as opposed to a steel sleeve. Your cylinders are nikasil plated aluminum which have many advantages over steel sleeves. Your pistons and cylinders heat up and expand at the same rate which allows for tighter piston to wall clearances, steel takes much longer to expand. The Nikasil plating reduces friction greatly over steel, synthetic oils can prolong the piston and rings ability to seat. Synthetic oils can cause clutch slippage over time, but primarily in racing applications. During normal road riding your clutch is engaged 99% of the time. New Honda motocross bikes actually have separate oil compartments for the engine and transmission (clutch) so that you can run synthetic in the engine, and dino in the tranny. Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki do not.

Gidday...mxrider920...good info mate, thanks for chiming in.