I had a thread going in the Jetting section but I thought I would meve the topic over here since it really doesn't have anything to do with jetting. Anyway, my 05 Roadstar has been sitting for 3 years while I was stationed in Japan. I'm back in the States now and trying to get her up and running again. Today I changed the plugs, oil and filled the tank with some Yamaha Fuel additive as well as sprayed the Carb throat whit a sh*t ton of B12. Bike runs great with the choke open but once it closes the bike starts spitting and sputtering. If I'm driving down the road it runs ok but once I come to a stop it dies. Have to open the choke to get it started again. Another problem I'm having is for some reason my choke will not stay open. I have to reach down and hold the knob out or it just goes back in. Any advise, help whatever is greatly appreciated!!

SoCo

I'm sure others with more knowlege will jump in but it sounds like your low speed jet is clogged. you might have too take the carb apart and clean it good. As for the choke,just behind the knob is a rubber bushing type of thingy( ) that you can turn to hold the choke knob out. I think turn right will tighten it up . But not too tight you want it to move easy. I know a long bunch of hot air but I'm not as eloquent with words like Some of the others.

Yep , that jet is basically a pin hole. If it is even partially clogged it does exactly what you are describing. Gotta clean that carb , plain and simple. Clean it , and your woes should be over.


I do have a question though , after sitting for three years , how does the inside of your tank look. No rust I hope. BB

Big Bear wrote:
Yep , that jet is basically a pin hole. If it is even partially clogged it does exactly what you are describing. Gotta clean that carb , plain and simple. Clean it , and your woes should be over.


I do have a question though , after sitting for three years , how does the inside of your tank look. No rust I hope. BB

There actually is a little rust in there. What can I do with that? I checked around the outside of the tank today when I had it off, it still seemed solid.

SoCoRoadie wrote:
Big Bear wrote:
Yep , that jet is basically a pin hole. If it is even partially clogged it does exactly what you are describing. Gotta clean that carb , plain and simple. Clean it , and your woes should be over.


I do have a question though , after sitting for three years , how does the inside of your tank look. No rust I hope. BB

There actually is a little rust in there. What can I do with that? I checked around the outside of the tank today when I had it off, it still seemed solid.


Try this;

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p3152&leafCatId=&mmyId=

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.jsp?searchString=kreem&store=&resultType=subCategories&x=6&y=7

I've never used it myself, but from what I've heard it works pretty good and the product has been around a long time. Whatever you use though, you definitely need to clean the tank and get rid of any rust, otherwise you'll continue to have problems.

Good Luck!!
In The Wind,
Aaron

Did you drain the carb while the bike was stored? If not, you're going to have to pull it and give it a thorough cleaning. If there was gas in the tank over that time, you'll want to drain it and put fresh in as well. Once gas goes bad, no additive is going to bring it back...supposed to treat it before you let it sit with a product like Stabil.

As for the rust in the tank, if you go with that kit (or any similar reline/seal kit), be sure to do a few things first...

1. Remove everything from the tank, including the petcock, fuel level sensor, etc.

2. Get a 2-3 feet length of chain from the local hardware (small enough in diameter to get into the tank through the fill hole), put it in the tank and roll the tank around in your hands. This will help remove any loose rust particles in the tank before you reline/seal it. You don't want to violently shake the tank with the chain in it as you could risk denting it from the inside out. Flush the tank real well with water afterward, let it air out a day or two, then apply the reline/seal kit per the instructions.

Be careful with that B12 carb cleaner. I'm using the Mikuni 42hsr carb, had an issue which I thought was some tarnish, used so much of the B12 that is caused one of the o-rings to swell, which caused the slide to freeze. And for this carb, only 1 place in the US to get them from. There are some tricks to reduce the swelling of o-rings, but it got too swollen to reduce it's size. I will never use that product again

You have already got good advice on why your bike dies. Your second issues was the choke will not stay out. Just beyond the choke (handle) is a ring. Turn the ring to tighten/loosen the choke friction until it is snug, but not too tight.

Couple things to be aware of when using Kreem liner......that stuff will ruin paint....plain and simple. So use caution when using all three stages , but particularly stage 1 (acid ) and stage 3 (the liner). Both are guaranteed to make a good thing go wrong if they are exposed to the paint.

Second , when it come to removing the rust (if there is flaky rust , it must be removed first) I like using BBs. Yep BB gun ammo. Been using them for years , less hard on the tank , just time consuming to get them all out.

But get rid of the rust , and clean that carb , and you should be good to go. BB

Thanks everyone for all the great info.

Is there a step by step article about removing the carb anywhere out there?