Clifford wrote:
I have never heard of using a dial indicator for adjusting valve clearance. It is normally done with a feeler gage. We have one rocker that operates two valves, that is why the adjustment. The "primary" valve is taken care of by the hydralics while the "secondary" valve has the adjustment.

Maybe the correct term should be "valve synchronization". From Mr. Tidy's article, the idea is to use the dial gauge to confirm that both each pair of valves begin opening at exactly the same. Essentially the idea is to set valve lash at exactly zero. If you're really good at adjusting the slack out by feel, you might not need to use the dial indicator.

Ray did you bleed the lifter down before you adjusted them? The guy that owns Metric Tech said just follow the manual and bleed the lifters down by pressing on the rocker arm and do it just like you did. I did mine that way and it is fine. He builds racing bikes and does a ton R* work so I trust him.

Just a thought ere,you said you installed hiperf heads.

well a few things come to mind here that can increase valvetrain noise are as follows:

* If heads have higher spring rates then stock heads did which is very likely that can cuase the valve to hit the seats harder which will increase valvetrain noise.

* If you installed a higher perf cam with more gressive lobe design that also increases vlavetrain noise even with hyd lifters.

* Another issue could be the bleed rate of the replcement automotive lifters could be slightly faster or the machining quality be lower causing same issue with respect the plunger and lifter bore tollerance causing them to e noisier too.

Or if your new high perf heads do have stiffer springs that can cuase the stock perf automtive hyd lifters to bleed down a little faster/more then they should too addition to valvetrain noise too even if still runnking the stock cams.

* Are you running a lighter oil like 10w-40 or 15-40 vs 20-50 and if yes try some heavier 20-50 or race oil in 25-50 or 20-60 grade to see if that helps some if all other things like valve adj etc are checked again and are ok.

I have been working on and building SBC/BBC street perf motors for over 38yrs and often run into issue with increased valvtrain noise from hi perf hyd flat tappet cams bothering the car owners after those hi perf cams with more agressive lobe designs are installed,its just part of the drill with perf cams having agreesive lobe design allown vlaves to seat faster & harder esp with the higher sping rates required with those cams too.

Scott

I left the stock cams untouched. The springs are Nemesis and sturdier than the stock which may mean some noise.

They are better after two tries, but still not satisfactory. When the engine warms up good, the noise is louder. I'm considering doing the adjustment when it's hot.

The problem I'm having now is getting the dial gauge in position to adjust the valves. It's just awkward and there's just no room.

I used a steel rule from a carpenter's square (12" long) and magnets to hold it to the valve fingers like a diving board with the dial gauge on the outboard end. I may have to get a small pair of needle nose vice grips to clamp the rule onto the fingers. Those magnets were a pain.

Curt, how did he say to bleed down the lifters? I used the method in the Clymer's Service Manual, which says to turn the engine to align the teeth on the cam gear with the crank gear for each valve opening. I could probably do better if I just removed the valve covers and watched the push rods rise.

I want to tell you that the HC pistons are a great add-on. I had to change the settings on my Dyna 3000. The whole "mood" of the scoot is different, from the feel to the exhaust. She really has a noticeable power increase and takes off!!

Now I have to adjust the drive belt more (skip, skip) and install my Baron's clutch spring set (slip, slip).

EDIT: Can't wait to get her quiet and take her to get Dyno tested and carb adjustment!!

Just a quick two cents, when I had the competition valve spring installed on the CHICKEN the noise went up a tad, I do believe that the extra push causes some of that noise, also using that viscosity oil will add a little extra noise.

I adjusted my valves twice using the hand tightening method and it was fine. The couple of thousandths you might be off tightening the stay nut isn't going to hurt anything.

Its not going to the moon.

Ride it a few thousand miles and see if it tones down a little and you might adjust to the noise.

H