Man was I ever wrong in thinking I could just go ahead and wing it on my first brake bleeding. I'm feeling real stupid since I've never done this before. Here's my stupid questions.
- Do you leave the master cylinder open while you pump the brake handle?
- What exactly is the procedure anyway? I took the cover off, the white plastice thing and the black boot. I assume you just pour brake fluid into the cylinder.

I opened the bleed screw and started pumping away at the brake lever. I see brake fluid dripping down the clear tube but not flowing. I'm sure I'm screwing this up and wasting my time but I've heard that it's not "easy". Am I on the right track or making a fool of myself?

There are a few different ways to do this, but the way I do it is... Fill the brake reservoir with fluid and put the cap back on so you don't make a mess. Put the 8MM wrench on the brake bleeder, but don't loosen it. Pump the brake lever a few times and hold it, while holding it break open the bleeder. You should get a good stream of fluid (or air if it has air in it). Close the bleeder and then release the brake. You shouldn't have the bleeder open with the brake lever released b/c that will suck air back into the line. The front brake can try your patience when bleeding, but stay with it and you will be fine. Check the reservoir periodically so you don't run all the fluid out - then you will have to start all over. Good Luck!

Mitchell:

We're all laughing, but we'll get you through this...

1. Did you replace the brake lines? If so, you'll have to get the air out of them before you bleed at the calipers.

With the cover off:
Tap the upper line and slightly pull the lever (probably 100 times). You'll see bubbles come up through the reservoir.
Once you start getting some pressure built up, go to step two.

2. If you're just bleeding some Winter air out of your brakes, you're on the right track.
With the cover off:
Pump a few times, hold down the lever firm and loosen the bleeder a little until the pressure releases. Tighten the bleeder screw, and repeat.

Some say you can pull the brake lever and tie it over night. Never really worked for me, though.

If you're doing this with the cover on, check it once in a while as to not run it dry. If you do, you've just put back the air into the lines...


Rich

I read Curt's rock back and forth method also. I knew I was doing something wrong. I had the bleed screw and master cylinder open pumpig the brakes. Talk about burning hours and getting nowhere. Let me give this a try again.

It's okay to laugh. I'm laughing at myself in between the cursing. Just changing cables to stainless.

Do the bleeding with the cover on. Once you start to get just a little lever pressure sit on the bike hold the lever down and rock the bike back and forth with the lever held down. release the lever and repeat the rocking you will find that the lever gets harder each time you do that. You can bleed a time or two more but repeat the rock step and you will find you have a hard lever in no time. I replaced my lines and tis method works great I think the rocking causes the air bubbles to rise to the top because of the back pressure in the line.

I'm all set to go tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Curt wrote:
release the lever and repeat the rocking you will find that the lever gets harder each time you do that. repeat the rock step and you will find you have a hard lever in no time. tis method works great .

Curt
you must have an ultimate seat.

Another way. buy a clear hose that squeezes over the bleeder. It's common stuff. Need about 2 feet of it. Hook hose to bleeder, I use a qt size white bottle (Old oil bottle.) Clip the hose to inside the bottle with a clamp so it flows freely but holds the hose in the container and at or near the bottom. Now I take a turkey baster or a syringe and take all the fluid out of the Master and put that dirty stuff in container. you need the fluid to cover the end of the hose to keep it from sucking into the hose. Now. Using DOT 4 Fluid slightly crack the bled to where it leaks. You will see it flow through the hose. Now fill the master and pump away re filling the master as needed. Each time you pump old fluid flows into the container but it will not suck any air because of the fluid at the end of the hose and it won't suck up dirty fluid either. If you have a good hose you will soon see clear clean fluid . Your bled, now tighten the bled and fill Master reservoir to the proper level and test your breaks, You are done. No hassle way (You will also want to bleed the other caliper, it will not take much more fluid.) Cover your tank as brake fluid eats paint. Secure your bars so they don't get moved with the lid off the reservoir and spill any fluid.

I didn't see it specifically mentioned , but brake fluid loves to ruin paint , so if you spill any on the bike , take a minute and clean it up. BB

Big Bear wrote:
I didn't see it specifically mentioned , but brake fluid loves to ruin paint , so if you spill any on the bike , take a minute and clean it up. BB
I mentioned it, right above you.... But I know no one reads my posts. Nearly my last line. Good reminder though, I have some in a windshield washer tank and the outlet squirts to the rear for close following vehicles, powers off a switch on the handle bar! For tailgaters. Just kidding.