I don,t know what you guy,s are smokin? I,ve been running 5w 30 empire oil bought at any convenience store for 200,000 miles don,t even smoke.

bowhunter4265 wrote:
SCOTT YOU ARE PREACHING TO THE WRONG CHOIR..........................
I CLEARLY POINTED OUT THAT IT SHOULD BE WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE.
that would be a mc oil

whatever he decides to use.

Yes you did state there were issues with fric mods & wet clutches in bikes when using pass car oils which i did't question at all & you got you feather ruffled over absoultely nothing. If that got you all riled up you need to chill out,geesh/LOL!!!!!

What i said was you overlooked/kinda got it backwords in the sence that it was a much more imortant issue that the pass car oils didn't have the proper zddp lvls and the damage that could cause vs fric mods and maybe cutch slippage someday that wasnt near as detrimental & that was the point.

I was poining out the firction mods dont do any real damage persay mehcanically but low zddp can over time/miles in a lrg air cooled ft cam'd v twin that get's plenty hot cuase premature wear of FT cam/lifters sending damaging metal particles thru the motor wich is the more detramateal effect tha could he had with running pass car/truck oils then the friction mods ,that was the point.

Low zddp lvl's in most pass car/truck oils can do more damage intrenally to FT cams/lifters etc vs fic mods maybe causing the clutch to slip somday that's easily repairable vs lifters/cams going bad due to lack of zddp reqired for safe FT cam operation sending metal contam thruout the motors entire oiling system if that happens which isnt good when running pass car/truck oils which needed to be pointed out whith you statement about the only real bad thing with pass car oil was fric mods when the low zddp was a way wosre issues then fric mods could ever be.

I just want the right info going out here when it comes to this oil subject and theres nothing wrong with pointing out that firc mode arent the only issue with pass car oils like you stated (which wisn't the case) and that the low zddp issues with pass car oils is much more of an issue that can damage the motor then fric mods could ever do.

Just my $02 from researching oils & doing oil testing for team chevelle over past 3-4 yrs which also included contacting mult oil engineers & oil chemists at oil mfg's & oil additive engineers & mfg's for info on zddp lvls in thier oils & additives and how it affects ft cam'd motors in car & bikes. That was along with what i was fiding in the field working on FT cam'd motors too.

I have also been wrenching /rebuidling muscle car and bike motors inc installing many perf Ft cams over the yrs for almost 40yrs now & counting . So i have plenty of 1st hand exp with hands on too along with the oil testing /research work i did for all of the 55k plus members in Team chevelle which has tought me alot about the oil industry and in particular thats been going on with pass car/truck/bike oils over past 5 yrs or so too. I have always been interested in motor oils over the life thus far and have kept up on them all my life even as a teenager when had first trailbike then motorcycle & car & didnt just take notice of whats going on with motor oils for team chevelle. But that did take me to a better lvl of understatnding of whats going on these days with respect to oils in general then your avg guy would have . I am just trying to share the oil info i have to help my fellow RCS members take better car of their R* motors ,not to try to make me look any certain way or that i may knw more then your avg guy about motor oil,i could car less about that ,its not like that at all for me.

I only speak it or post it here if i know it's true from 1st hand experience like when i get the info from the horse's mouth being the oil mfg's/oil engineers/oil chemists & also from many oil samples i sent out for lab testing to see what true zddp lvls etc were in the oils & thats it. I am not just speculating or just forming an opinion. I work from real oil test data i got and from info i also got from the experts(oil engineers/oil chemists) in the oil & oil additive buisness and some from my almost 40yrs dealing with FT cam'd car & bike motors too,thats it,NO BS!

Scott

Scott I am only not trying to get all tech about oil that has been argue for years and I don't need someone like you getting all tech concerned about the oil again...
I use a good oil if you can read maybe you need to stay off this forum or keep your comments to a min.. have a nice day and you can take your ZDDP and put it in your ???
I really don't care as long as my bike goes and rides.. I don't think I got riled up yet.. except about your comments that I might have been a little light on choosing an oil for this gentleman. Maybe you can do his oil changes for him too.
Have a nice day I am sure to get a warning or block about this but good

I have been reading this as you guys argue oil, and the thing is over the years I have learned the best thing to do is what the manufacurer recomends... or a better oil if approved. And I will take ADVANTAGE of some elses exp. in any matter. I am 65 years old, and the day I stop learning something is the day my wife says." Well the SOB IS FINALLY GONE!!" Take advantage of the more experienced folks and be a little more humble in your mistakes, we all make them...

Agpilot,thanks,me being almost 55yr old being a little younger then you have just learned something from you'r words of wisdom.

I am just trying to help all my fellow RSC members see the diff bewteen todays pass car and bike oils so they can make MUCH better choices in the future on what oil to run . But unfortunately many seem to be very resistant to change and or hearing whats really going on with oils mfg'd today ,cbut it an't hurt to try which is what i am doing.

BTW,this is by no means anything for me like look at what i know,i am simply trying to get the latest info out there on the oils so all of you guys can make best oil choices to protect the lrg 1700 air cooled v-twins in the R* that run hotter thenyou avg water cooled bike mfg'd these days.

I only went into all the detail on what my background was and what i was doing with oil testing/research etc so he would know i wasnt just an armchair quarterback puking BS out here i knew nothing about which wasnt the case. Am i at the lvl of an oil engineer,no. But am i more on board then your avg bike or muscle car owner when it comes to whats going on with many of todays motor oils esp when it comes to FT cam protection /zddp etc ,yes i am but i dont consider myself an expert either. And what i have learned is from doing countless hr's over past 5 yrs or so of oil research in general/phone with oil engineers-chemists/researching oil websites/sending oil out for lab testing zddp lvls etc & repoting data results to team chevelle mebers/reading & disecting oil tests reports from mult engineering firms/legwork in general/etc which is how i got a better understanding of whats going with todays oils then your avg guy would have,thats it plain & simple,take it or leave it.

Scott

Too bad we can't make a zink additive so we can just add the needed item to our favorite oil. It seems that is what is missing, right?

There is,here are a few ZDDP oil additives:

* CAM SHIELD-AVAIL FROM THEIR WEBSITE

* ZDDPLUS-AVAIL FROM THIER WEBSITE AND FROM EASTWOOD AUTO ONLINE TOOL SUPPLIER.

* HI " Z " AVAIL ONLNE @ MOTORHEAD OIL

In a pich you can also run oil additIves used for FT cam/lifter breakin that are added to crankcase oil like for ex:

* GM EOS -AVAIL FROM SUMMIT/MORE $ FROM GM DEALER

* LUCAS TB ZINC BREAKIN LUBE -AVAIL FROM SUMMIT AND SOME STORES LOCALLY

* CRANE SUPERLUBE BREAKIN CONCENTRATE -AVAIL FROM SUMMIT & CRANE

But by the time you spend that additonal $ for these additives you may as well buy the bike oil with proper zddp lvls already in it along with no fric mods that many oils of all di grades are running these days too.


scott

http://www.eastwood.com/zddp-plus-oil-additive-4-fl-oz.html

wonder how well that works?

ricksstar,boy you dont like to give much detail when posting/LOL!!!!!

Anyway,just curious why you'd run very thin 5w-30 oil in a large air cooled v-twin R* motor thats setup new from factory with clearances to run rec 20-40 or 20-50 oil rec by Yamhaha and thas also known to run hotter then your avg water cooled bike motor ?

Also wondering you'r reff to 200k miles is in fact that the 200k miles was put on your R* motor konwn to run 5-30 all of its 200k mile life from new to 200km miles without ever having any oil related issues like using oil and or lifter/cam replacement or is that reff to a pass car motor that you ran up too 200k with 5-30 oil?

If it you ran 5-30 oil in your r* from day one up too 200k miles with no isseus at all thats amazing ,maybe you live in Alaska?/LOL!!!!!!!

Scott

Bump to see if (ricksstar )responds to my questions,i am very crusious about his R* possibly going 200k miles espcially what he makes look as though was done using 5w-30 oil.

Or maybe if he's just pulling our chain which i would not be surprised is the case.

Scott