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TOPIC: Re:Ceramic brake pads
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davej (User)
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Here is another article that shows the characteristics of ceramic pads see what it says about rotor wear. Can all these articles be wrong? The only place I can find anything negative about rotor wear and ceramic pads is on forums like this one. And the comments are coming from those who are only guessing and not based on any experience. And again I don't really care what anybody uses. But do some research before making negative comments with no basis.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Motorcycle-Brake-Pads
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
Here's an article that says metallic pads handle heat better than ceramics
Just my opinion but you can find all kinds of info on the Internet that contradicts each other.
My belief is, most info found on the Internet is a crock and unreliable at best
http://www.powerstop.com/content.wws?fname=ceramicmetallicpads.html
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
I thought the big question in this thread was weather or not ceramic pads caused premature or excessive rotor wear. Here is a snipet from your article.

In analyzing the test results, I found no correlation to make a general claim that ceramic pads are hard on rotors. In fact, it is clear that some metallic pads are more abrasive than some ceramic pads. The pads that were easiest on rotors were Akebono ceramic, Power Stop Z26 metallic and Performance Friction metallic.
Do metallic pads perform better than ceramic?
Under cold conditions, brake torque was not significantly different between ceramic and metallic pads. What I find interesting is what happens as temperature gets up to 1000 degrees. This is where metallic pads have the edge. Ceramic mu tends to drop at extreme conditions.
In summary, the general statement that all ceramic pads are hard on the rotor is false. There are advantages to ceramic pads in terms of uniform pedal pressure characteristics, low noise and low dust. Ceramic pads are a great street compound and can give better performance than some metallic pads. The advantage of metallic pads is improved high temperature performance. I recommend metallic pads for extreme performance such as hauling loads, track racing, towing trucks or traveling in mountains. Our Z36 series has super stopping power even at extreme temperatures. Power Stop offers Evolution ceramic with a nice compromise between pad bite and stability. Of all the products tested, Power Stop Evolution operates close to Akebono (the OE pad) in performance.

BTW
I'm not recommending any type of pad . I'm just saying do your own reserch and make your own decision on what you want to use. Personally as a retired mechanic, When I do brake jobs on my own vehicles I buy the mid priced pads from Autozone and I don't turn my rotors unless I have a pulsation in the pedal. And I had a brake lathe in my shop so it has always been free.
 
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Last Edit: 2010/09/26 10:44 By davej.
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
davej wrote:
I thought the big question in this thread was weather or not ceramic pads caused premature or excessive rotor wear.


No Dave, there was no question. If you go to my 1st post, all I gave was a place and brand of ceramic pads since someone I talked to on the phone from the forum had an interest, and I told them I would try to find the info again. And I did state that I never tried them nor did I know of anyone who had tried them on a bike.

Comments started to come on how they warped car rotors. I then posed some ques, about the materials used between car and bike rotors, pressure and something else, since I did not know the differences, and that I would only compare like to like, not an apple to a orange. I guess as of yet there is no one that has tried them on a bike, tho I did miss reading a couple of posts. I just did my rear brake today, but already had pads to go on, if I would have had to order, I certainly would have tried the ceramics. 75% of the time I run HH sintered, both front and rear, basically depended on what my Tampa dealer had in stock at the time, never had to order, my front rotors are stock with 121k miles on them, rear had been replaced when the dealer screwed up my rear caliper and destroyed my rotor, think that has about 70k
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
Erbman with that many miles on the original rotors have you miked them to see how thick they are? Front = 4.5mm or 0.18in rear 6.5mm or 0.26in.
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
davej wrote:

BTW and I don't turn my rotors unless I have a pulsation in the pedal. And I had a brake lathe in my shop so it has always been free.

That's interesting that you said that. That is the exact reason why I stopped paying to have my rotors and drums turned. I swear every time I paid to have a brake job done it always entailed turning the rotors and drums and I always ended up with brakes that pulsated afterward. The last paid brake job I had done was over 15 years ago and I let the dealership do it thinking they would know how to turn a rotor. Again I got my car back with pulsating brakes. At that point, I assumed no one knew how to repair brakes. I no longer turn the rotors or drums now and in 15 years have never had a pulsating brake on any of vehicles I've had since then.
 
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Last Edit: 2010/09/26 12:52 By greenpus.
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
Erb
I understand the intent of your first post. And the question did come afterwards. Thanks for The info that you posted. When it comes time for pads on mine I might just go with ceramic. And after just a little reserch of my own I know that there are different ceramic compounds to consider.
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
greenpus wrote:
davej wrote:

BTW and I don't turn my rotors unless I have a pulsation in the pedal. And I had a brake lathe in my shop so it has always been free.

That's interesting that you said that. That is the exact reason why I stopped paying to have my rotors and drums turned. I swear every time I paid to have a brake job done it always entailed turning the rotors and drums and I always ended up with brakes that pulsated afterward. The last paid brake job I had done was over 15 years ago and I let the dealership do it thinking they would know how to turn a rotor. Again I got my car back with pulsating brakes. At that point, I assumed no one knew how to repair brakes. I no longer turn the rotors or drums now and in 15 years have never had a pulsating brake on any of vehicles I've had since then.


Nowdays most automotive rotors are thin and don't disapate heat very well even when new. (especially if you buy the cheap ones) The total thickness may be the same,(as on a premium rotor) but when you compare the thickness of the steel sufaces and the width of the fins on the cheap one you will find that the fin width is wider and the surface thickness is thinner on the cheap one. Buy a rotor from a discount auto store and compare it to a Napa rotor that cost twice as much. look at these areas and you will see what I am talking about. If you ever turn the cheap rotor it will still be in spec due to the wider fins (spec only refers to total thickness) but the surface area will be to thin and it will warp.
 
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
I went with ceramic on my car this time. Have only been on for 2 months so can't say yet. Just changed the rear roady today. Went back to yamaha pads. EBC HH pads were eating my rotors bad & and noisier than stock pads.
 
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#311820
BadBikerBob (User)
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Re:Ceramic brake pads 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
I recently installed the Parts Unlimited ceremic (maybe called TruStop or something like that?) ceremic pads on my Roadie & I can attest that they're much quieter than O.E.M. No annoying squealing sounds like stock, less dust & it seems like they stop better. I use ceremic pads on all of my vehicle & love them. I haven't had any rotor wear/warpage problems on bike or cars thus far.
 
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