KevTec wrote:
I had only put the battery on the charger last nite. It is the same kind of 'gel' charger
that the shop uses. charger indicates good battery and full charge, but definitely is not a
'strong' turnover of the bike. cables are indeed tight and clean, just put battery back in this morning.
=================

Its an 08 bike with original 4 yr + old battery,id bet battery is getting tired.

If thats the case when you replace it make sure to get the upgraded/more powerfull 310CCA version of same battery,stock R* battery is 270cca.

Heres a link to what the dealer/sealer told me was a high perf AGM maint free 310cca battery for super price of 49.90 /63.85 inc S&H ,hard to beat that price for an AGM hi perf maint free 310cca battery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YTX20HL-BS-Motorcycle-Scooter-ATV-PowerSports-Battery-/280776805815?hash=item415f9a0db7&item=280776805815&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

The battery includes acid pack to activate yourself,just remove vacuum seal on battery & insert acid pack into filler holes of battery to fill it with acid(its pre-measured for each cell so no worry of overfilling spillig acid),install permanat battery cap-s,charge per mfg's ins,and your good to go.

The feedback from many others that bought his bike batteries is very good,nothing negative at all on the batteries.

Some peoples feedback said they were a litte hesitant to buy the ytx20hl-bs because it was less then half price of yami dealers or local auto stros 310cca battery but were glad they did because the battery worked out great.

Heres the next best deal i found on a factory activated ready to use Deka AGM Maint Freee 310cc battery for $77.95 inc S&H,just drop it in,hook up the 2 battery calbes,install the seat,and your off to the races!/LOL!!! .

Iv'e been running a Deka AGM main free factory activated battery in my 06 R* since 2009 with no problems thus far. It always spins it over very well,even started NP in 35 deg temp with 20-50 oil that was too heavy for that temp i dont noramlly ride in.

Here's the link to it.

http://www.tristatebattery.com/product_info.php?products_id=981

Locally @ the autostore/small bike shop/Yami dealer inc tax & core-disposal fee of old battery you will be paying anywehere from $115-140 for the more powerfull upgraded hi perf AGM main free 310cca battery so the above batteries are a good deal for sure if you can wait 3-4 days to get them saving you approx $51-76 depending on where you buy it locally.

Scott

It may be too late for this battery but here are few more things anyway. The maximum charge rate for our battery is 9 amps for 1 hour so careful with the car charger. The Gel type charger you mentioned peaks at a lower voltage and charges at a lower voltage than what is required for our AGM battery. And once the open circuit voltage gets below 12.0 volts the battery will start sulfating. The Yuasa 1.5 amp battery charger/maintainer can help some with the sulfation and might just possibly save the battery.

wow, thanks a bunch for all that battery info, I will definitely investigate.

Just tried with the charged battery, turns over much faster, but does not start.

KevTec wrote:
wow, thanks a bunch for all that battery info, I will definitely investigate.

Just tried with the charged battery, turns over much faster, but does not start.
make sure the gas is turned on

greenpus wrote:

make sure the gas is turned on

That's one thing we don't have to worry about on the FI models...

ok, heres a question, found fuel dripping from the blue connector that connects below the gas tank.
can't seem to get that thing solidly connected to the tank. Can someone tell me the procedure I need
to do to get that thing (I imagine it is the fuel supply line) connected to its metal piece that is part of the tank?

KevTec wrote:
ok, heres a question, found fuel dripping from the blue connector that connects below the gas tank.
can't seem to get that thing solidly connected to the tank. Can someone tell me the procedure I need
to do to get that thing (I imagine it is the fuel supply line) connected to its metal piece that is part of the tank?

Kev:

That's a pressurized system, so if there's leakage, that's not good.

Squeeze the blue connector from both sides and slide it on until it snaps. You really have to compress it with your fingers to get it over the rim of tube.


Rich

let me confirm something, the blue connector is supposed to go in the innermost tube, right? the one with
the 'lip' at the end of the tube?

ok, got it now guys! problem was I had the blue connector on the wrong tube below the tank, stupid I know but that was it, thanks much for all your help

KevTec wrote:
ok, got it now guys! problem was I had the blue connector on the wrong tube below the tank, stupid I know but that was it, thanks much for all your help
so the gas was turned off