This is instructions to lube or service your clutch cable. Throttle cables can be lubed the same way.

First at the lever loosen the adjustment all the way. (No pic, I hope you know how to do this.)

Second I get a 2x2 wood board and I place one end on the clutch lever as shown here (Below) and the other end on my hip, I use my hip to press in the clutch and undo the cable at this end with my free hands. (It takes a little fanangling.) Some of you know other ways to do this. (me too) I do it this way for ease, speed and it leaves the clutch cable exactly as it was when I started.


OK, once you have removed the bottom end go back up and remove the top end. There is a slot you fanangle the cable to and it drops down. If it is a little hard to get the end of the cable out of the lever, you are overdue for this service. If it is dirty up in there. Your lucky your doing it now. Squirt it with some WD 40 to loosen it up.


Pictured below you see the lever end of the cable you have removed. There is a lead barrel and a cover on it that is plastic, this plastic pops off and you are going to do some serious cleaning and re lube this pivot point and then snap the plastic barrel back over the clean and lubricated Lead barrel end. In most cases this is at or near where your cable will break due to lack of lubrication. IF this pivot point becomes so dirty or corroded that it does not pivot when you pull your clutch lever, It will bend the cable back and forth until it snaps. There is never a good time for this to happen. If you see any wires in the cable that are frayed or are not smooth to the touch, you should order a new cable. I use WD 40 to clean and I use a Mountain bike style cable lube because it is wax based and repells dirt as it is used. I cannot pick your lube though. Your choice.


Another pic of Plastic barrel (removed) cover on the lever end.


Now get a red nozzle for a spray can and crimp one end with a pair of pliers until It will fit into the cable housing along side the cable as picture below. It will not fit without being pinched down. Blow through it to ensure you did not pinch it too much.

Below is how you clean, You just point the lever end of cable up towards the sky and squirt lube as you work the cable in and out. The clutch end on the cable should be pointed down at a rag in a can, or some type of recovery method to catch the WD 40 as it comes out the clutch end dirty. You will squirt and work until what comes out is clean and free of dirt. The cable should move very freely within the cable housing now. What a difference!


Once the cable is clean and moving freely it is time to introduce the lube of your choice. I use Lube that contains bees wax and graphite. I use the graphite lube first and follow up with the bees wax based Mountain Bike cable lube. It is for severe conditions, and will keep water and dirt out. PICTURED BELOW is the Nozzle incerted into the cable at the lever end. Now, to really force the lube through the cable you have to create a seal at this point. I use RESCUE TAPE, I have also used plummers puddy and even electric tape. Point is seal this end so the force of the spray is mainly into and through the cable housing. You are going to squirt until you see fresh lube, clean as new pouring out the clutch end into the can on the floor.

Pictured below I can see the lube I am using has passed through the cable and is coming out the clutch end the same color and it comes out of the can. This means all the dirt is removed and only clean lube is now in the cable. Work the cable back and forth in the housing and lube a little more.


This end of the cable must also be cleaned and lubed. Be sure of this and you are ready to put it all back together.


BEFORE you put that freshly lubed cable into that lever you MUST spray the dog doo out of that lever! Use WD 40 and hose it down and work it until it is perfectly clean! Now lube the pivot points of the lever with the cable lube and re-install the barrel back into the lever properly. Be sure it is all the way in and centered up and pivots nicely. Squirt in more lube and wipe excess off.


Now work on the clutch end, use the 2x2 and press the clutch end back in and fanangle the cable back into the slot and into the pivot point. Release the pressure and test the lever. It should feel way better now.


Now adjust the clutch at the lever using a nickle. (You should know how to do this already) tighten the jam nut down and re test. It should work very smooth and free of noise. Wipe any excess lube off your bike.

The cable in this picture has been maintained this way for 5 years and 50K miles in all weather conditions, snow, sleet, rain, ice, and summer. and it still works and looks like new. Not doing this at least once a year can lead to a cable failure. IMO almost all cable failure is due to impropper lubrication. The way you can bend a coat hanger back and forth until it breaks, Is the same thing that happens to a clutch or throttle cable. The lack of lube makes it bend instead of pivot and not much of that will lead to a break. It happens so slowly, you compensate for the extra effort without knowing.

Depending on how much you ride you can lube the pivot points occasionally with everything still installed to maintain good pivot point lubrication.

Now point you bike in a safe direction, start it and test the cable by going for a ride.

Add your tips, comments and the favorite lube you use to comments to give up more ideas and other way to do it. I just can't see buying a cable lube tool with this way works right now. Anytime, anywhere.

I use Break Free CLP in the cable sleeve, and Lubriplate #130AA on the pivots. I like the straw crimp idea. I'll have to try that. I usually tape the upper end to the windshield, and make a funnel with masking tape and funnel in the CLP.

Good write-up.

Good write up, Mike. I installed a new clutch cable and new throttle cables just this winter so I lubed the s___ out of them before installation.....that's the easiest way - do it wheen they're off the bike. your method sounds andd looks very similar to mine while they're installed. Gotta do it at least once a season to keep them in good shape. The only reason I changed mine this year is because I went to Stainless.....like the look.

Hope to seee you at the M&G in June.

Thanks bro....good suff. Ill be doing mine this weekend. That's one thing I tend to neglect.



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I just did mine but this is a better way 2 getr done-thanks-great write up and pics
ken

Thanks for the Kuto's The best thing about this way is really no waiting and they stay on the bike. It's quick and it's satisfying to see the dirty lube come out followed by the clean lube.

MS1700 wrote:
Thanks for the Kuto's The best thing about this way is really no waiting and they stay on the bike. It's quick and it's satisfying to see the dirty lube come out followed by the clean lube.



Is white lithium ok to use to lube cables?

Excellent post Mike. Thanks for the great ideas

hrdbrgn wrote:
MS1700 wrote:
Thanks for the Kuto's The best thing about this way is really no waiting and they stay on the bike. It's quick and it's satisfying to see the dirty lube come out followed by the clean lube.



Is white lithium ok to use to lube cables?

I'm not a big fan of white lithium grease in this application- I tried it and it became very thick and goopy. I use spray lube with teflon in it (can't remember the brand right offhand, but it's available at WalMart) and it doesn't seem to gum up as bad....
John Scribner

I use Dri-Slide. Used for bicycles and I hear some of the dirt bike riders swear by it. Anything that won't attract dirt. I think any kind of grease would pick up dirt and dust.