Well I've got a leaking seal that I'm finally getting around to working. I've read thru the tech article on change fork oil, but I would like to know what do I absolutely need to do the job.
Right now I'm looking at 2 oil seals, 2 dust seals, 2 qts 15w belray, and two progressive springs.
Anything else?

You will want to have an impact wrench and an allen driver for the damper rod bolt. I can't remember if it is an 8 or 10MM allen. I made a long one by cutting down one of my kajillion "L" wrenches, and just put it in the appropriate socket. Seal driver to put the seal into place. I make mine with a piece of pvc that barely fits over the fork tube. You can use a long piece that comes over the top of the tube, and push it that way, or use a smaller piece and make a 2 X 4 push board to drive the PVC and the seal. You need to make sure you feel the seal pop down into place, or it will leak.

For measuring the fork oil height, I use a wire coat hanger. You can put a "flag" of tape at the height you want. Remember to remove the tubes and drain them well. Pump them up and down several times to help evacuate the bottom of the tube. Some folks put a little ATF in the tube after the fluid is drained, and use it as a flushing agent to clean the bottom out prior to removing the damping rod and piston. When going back together, put about half the fluid in each tube and pump them 3-4 inches several times until you don't feel any air going thru the bottom end. I usually let them stand like that for about 5 minutes and repeat prior to topping out to measured height on the oil.

Hope it goes well.

Thanks. Actually I was speaking more of replacement parts needed, but I'll take all the help I can get.

There's a copper crush washer on the damper rod bolt. Some people change them, but I've never had one leak after being re-used.

Personally, after doing a set myself, I took the next set to a shop.

Reason is, you need a good fork seal driver to get them to seat properly. I think the shop charged $90.00 for both sides if I brought them in.


Rich

You may want to consider 10wt oil instead of the 15wt.

I've never had a problem with the PVC on driving seals. Just me maybe. I agree with the 10W. I only see 15W reccomended by Race Tech when using straight rate springs and emulators.

jd750ace wrote:
I've never had a problem with the PVC on driving seals. Just me maybe. I agree with the 10W. I only see 15W reccomended by Race Tech when using straight rate springs and emulators.

The OP stated he was going with Progressive, no mention of emulators.

15w was just a guess. I can go 10w no prob. Local dealer wanted 150 per fork plus parts.