Ironman,

You said you just snugged-up your top steering nut. I think I need to do mine as well as the bike's getting a bit squirrely over ruts.

So you jack it up, remove the top tree cover to get to it, is there any concern over the weight of the front wheel & forks, torquing the lower clamps out of alignment? Should I jack it up just enough to lightly touch the ground with the front wheel?

Would just like a little guidance before I do this.

Thanks.

Read thru this thread my man. I'm pretty sure Ironman chimed in here a time or two. I think this is when he did it. Read all comments, and you should be ready to hit it and get it good the first shot.

http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_fireboard/Itemid,187/func,view/catid,58/id,503909/

Rabboni wrote:
Ironman,

You said you just snugged-up your top steering nut. I think I need to do mine as well as the bike's getting a bit squirrely over ruts.

So you jack it up, remove the top tree cover to get to it, is there any concern over the weight of the front wheel & forks, torquing the lower clamps out of alignment? Should I jack it up just enough to lightly touch the ground with the front wheel?

Would just like a little guidance before I do this.

Thanks.
Here's what I learned. Had no luck doing it the way it says in the manual. I talked w/ a Yamaha mechanic I trust & others.
(1) raise the bike until the front tire is BARELY off the groumd
(2) remove handle bars, windshield etc. Note: I use an engine hoist to hold the handle bars.
(3) remove the nut on the steering head shaft
(4)remove upper triple clamp
Now we're into the good stuff I tighten the lower nut until the fork assy will just barely turn. I'm using a spanner I got from the dealer. I take my time & constantly check how much pre-load this on the bearing(s)When the fork assy will turn, but almost stay at any angle I position it in, Im done. Next, after a VERY close/careful examination of the rubber washer that goes in between the 2 nuts, I throw it away I lock tite the upper jam nut & tighten/align as required. Install the alignment washer (washer w/ tangs) & reassemble the forks. I've done it on mine & my friends Roadies enough, it only takes about 15-20 min. Since I've started doing it this way, I've had no further issues w/ any front ends.

Iron man, have you noticed the steering lock does not work if you toss the rubber and double nut the stem? I did mine that way too, just putting it out there. I didn't ever use it myself, but another Roadie rider told me that after we had the adjustment discussion. He's right! The bolt in the lock housing don't line up with the hole no more!
I don't care. My steering stays adjusted!

jd750ace wrote:
Iron man, have you noticed the steering lock does not work if you toss the rubber and double nut the stem? I did mine that way too, just putting it out there. I didn't ever use it myself, but another Roadie rider told me that after we had the adjustment discussion. He's right! The bolt in the lock housing don't line up with the hole no more!
I don't care. My steering stays adjusted!
sometimes they align, sometimes they don't. That's why I use the lock tite I've also used a drift/punch if it was close

greyphart wrote:
DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE NUTS! Good and snug is the way to go. No play should be the rule of thumb.

GP

Why wouldn't you use a torque wrench?



I use torque wrenches on virtually every part of my bike, even the plastic parts. How else do you know what torque you're tightening to?

Did you mean IMPACT wrench?



BIG difference.

Thank you Gentlemen. I only have a spanner wrench for my AR-15... hey, I wonder if that would work!

I'm just going by feeling for the adjustment. I did the off the ground fall to side test and it bounces off the stop so I'm thinking just a little snug-up with a screw driver tap. Biggest issue will be tightening the top nut down on the lower nut.

BubbaKahuna wrote:
greyphart wrote:
DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE NUTS! Good and snug is the way to go. No play should be the rule of thumb.

GP

Why wouldn't you use a torque wrench?



I use torque wrenches on virtually every part of my bike, even the plastic parts. How else do you know what torque you're tightening to?

Did you mean IMPACT wrench?



BIG difference.
I use a torque wrench when & where it's needed. I've tried using it on the steering head nuts & wasn't satisfied w/ the results. After talking w/ the Yamaha mechanic I trust & respect, and some HD mechanics, this is how they do it. So far, I've had no problems doing it this way

Me too Ironman. The thread I referenced above has my thoughts, and how I was taught by old timers, and it never fails to yield the results you want. It is described slighly different, but Ironman's tightening technique takes the bearing preload to a precise point for that particular bike, with those thread conditions and bearings, on that day, and that is more accurate than a torque wrench. Your bearings should have enough preload so that the bars will travel smooth and slow from center to either stop. I do mine til I can stop the bar at any point in the steering arc, and it will stay there, but does not feel like it has to "break away" from the stopped position once I start to move it again. It's been handed down from old men to me, and I'll continue to pass it on, beacuse it just flat-out works.

jd750ace wrote:
Me too Ironman. The thread I referenced above has my thoughts, and how I was taught by old timers, and it never fails to yield the results you want. It is described slighly different, but Ironman's tightening technique takes the bearing preload to a precise point for that particular bike, with those thread conditions and bearings, on that day, and that is more accurate than a torque wrench. Your bearings should have enough preload so that the bars will travel smooth and slow from center to either stop. I do mine til I can stop the bar at any point in the steering arc, and it will stay there, but does not feel like it has to "break away" from the stopped position once I start to move it again. It's been handed down from old men to me, and I'll continue to pass it on, beacuse it just flat-out works.
ditto, as a machine builder/repairman, welder, fabricator, blacksmith, I one thing I've learned over the years, you can't teach feel. You've got it, or you don't