My passing lights (yami sealed beams, running adjure h3 lamps) were working. I took my bike into my dealer for some work. It comes out of the shop and one of the lights is lose. I complain as I don't have the right no tools on the road. They supposedly tightened it up. I rode home and before I go home it had given in and collapsed completely. How fun.

Anyway, I reassembled it and loctite'd it and it was working. I rode it about 20 more miles and somewhere along the way one of the lamps stops working; the right one (the one without the switch, which is the same as the one that collapsed). So I'm thinking a bad bulb (so I get adjure to send me a new h3-35w bulb). No luck. So its not the bulb. Apparently also, I lost the retainer ring that holds that switch on.

What could be the problem?

Nope, Factory lamps use a "semi-circle" spade connector to make the connection behind the lamp (inside the housing...) the factory folks like to "clip" the spade clip onto the screw post and ship it out... Works great for a couple of hundred miles... then (in my case...) the right lamp starts "winking" at eveyone...
The ring for the switch is another thing... I eliminated mine after I tried to find a replacement... (I went as far as going to all the electronics places and auto shops to find the nut... (I ran it for nearly 6K miles before I cut it out and "direct wired" them...

A test light is a great thing to have here...

check first for power going to the right lamp ...when yer lamps are on...

if no power it could be the switch..

if there is power then make sure yer ground wire hasnt come lose on the right lamp

If the left lamp works then the switch is OK, and you have either a loose or broken connection, it could be either the hot wire or the ground.

Clifford

my lights did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad bulb. It "looked" ok filiment intact but, would only work sometimes I was pissed cause it was only about 1000 miles old replaced it and no more problems. Also check ALL your wiring I had a wire that was connected but when I pulled lightly on it it came apart.

Steven

I've checked the wiring in both cans. Bad switch? Unless its shorting out along the wire or something like that. I bought a test light. No power to that side. I'm willing to rewire it without the stupid switch. I've got a free slot to one of my kuryakyn accessory switches, I was thinking of rewiring to that switch so I can turn it on/off while riding without having to reach over the windshield. 10AMP fuse should be strong enough, right. Can't remember the formula for figuring out power. 35w*2=70/12v=5.83amp so that should be good right? Anyway, any suggestions to cover up the hole where the switch is?

it is so small after passing a double wire thru ..pretty much fills the hole any way...I did the same thing but passed the wiring to my aux switch thru the hole unless you plan on doing it different

I have this switch:

http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=3540

I haven't looked at it, but the wire that goes back is the one from the switch, so I'll probably repurpose this wire by splicing both live wires to it and extend the wire back to under my seat. I like having all the connections in one place. This way I don't have to mess with the light bar itself and trying to fish wires. I don't want to feed a wire out of that little hole where the switch was. Question, that wire is fused, and yet my switch is fused, that won't be a problem will it?

no..double fusing wont cause any problems...

Wired it this way as I described and it works good. The only dang problem is I forget to turn the spots off occasionally. I do like your idea Pops, my switch is a bit out of the way as while riding I need to move my left hand above the master cylinder, your idea is more accessible.