Same thing happed to me 1 day before Star Days. Kept blowing 10 amp fuse. wire on running lights had wore through causing a short. Taped and replaced 10 amp fuse and no problem since then. Good luck hope I was of some help.

Well, I'm beginning to get frustrated...

Upon further examination today, the 10 amp fuse for the signal circuit was blown. And my conditions are exactly as rdunbar123 and bofish described:

1) Horn does not work
2) Turn signals do not work
3) Brake lights do not work
4) running lights and headlights DO work

Bike starts and runs fine...

To try and narrow down the "quadrant" of the problem I've systematically disconnected everything I've connected, one by one, and then tried a new fuse...POP.

Right now I have done the following to eliminate areas of the bike where grounding could occur:

1) Stebel horn is disconnected at the main relay - so horn is effectively "not there"
2) All connections in the headlight bucket that go to the passing bar are disconnected (all taps that came with Yami light bar) - so effectively the passing lamps and signals aren't there
3) I unplugged the connector to the rear taillight assembly - effectively no brake or turn lights

So basically that leaves me with the wiring between the headlight and the rear wheel, with the culprit somewhere in there. And it still pops that 10 amp and even 15 amp fuses (I ran out of 10s) as soon as I turn on the ignition.

I'm thinking it has to be in the fuse box/side cover mass o' wires itself, since that stuff got jostled around a bit when I installed the 4 gauge starter cable. Other than that, I'm at a loss...

One thing of note...while poking and prodding, I noticed that both black wires leading to the brake switch on the rear brake pedal had been pulled clean out of the switch and were just hanging there. I made sure they weren't touching each other while doing testing. That shouldn't make a difference, should it? And since I'm going to have to fix THAT, too, it looks like depressing the pedal raises a metal post that touches both wire contacts, completing the circuit and activating the light. Did I get that right? So theoretically it shouldn't matter which wire goes back on which switch connector, right?

Thanks in advance...HELP!!!

RK

You are correct in your thinking about the 2 black wires. The switch merely "interrupts" the circuit which consists of the black wires and probably a ground somewhere.

fastjohnny wrote:
You are correct in your thinking about the 2 black wires. The switch merely "interrupts" the circuit which consists of the black wires and probably a ground somewhere.

Thanks, FJ...I love it when I actually figure things out...and I'm right...

Now, back I go to hunt down to the elusive electrogremlims...


RK

That's it, I give up for the night...morning...whatever.

I checked the blinker switch since I changed the bars, All looked kosher inside, but just to make sure nothing was grounding out on the bars, I covered all the internal contacts with electrician's tape.

I soldered the rear brake switch wires back on...no luck there. I figure that can't have much to do with it

Pulled all the wires out of the taillight, cleaned up that bird's nest. And as long as I was there, I installed a Radiantz white LED license frame. And IT works fine since it's running off the headlight circuit.

I couldn't see any wire bundle I might have smashed when I jacked up the bike to adjust shock tension.

Only other thing I did was adjust PMS, and that dooesn't equire taking off anything but the air cleaner.

So, I'm at a standstill...for tonight.

HELP...

RK

Hey RK no luck I see.Take a volt meter or a test light after removing the blown fuse and connect the testing probe across the fuse terminal and turn on the ignition switch and test for voltage from the battery.Leave it attached and shake, move,errr disturb the wires leading away from the fuse terminals [away from the battery] every 6 inches or so and watch the testing device for either a voltage movement or the light to blink depending on which device you chose to find your short you may have to do this a few times is my experience good luck....Coug

Coug--

That sounds like a great idea--thank you! Now that I've had my 2 hours of sleep , one question...what should I set the meter on? As much as I hate to admit it, the volt-ohm meter is one thing I've never really used much, and I never seem to set the darn thing on the right settings.

I guess that goes to show that just because you own something doesn't mean you know how to operate it properly. Kinda like most car owners...

Thanks much--

RK

RK check your pms ....Coug

Cougar wrote:
RK check your pms ....Coug

PMS? For an electrical problem...you lost me... LAtely, that's not tough to do, though...

RK

Roadkill1962 wrote:
Cougar wrote:
RK check your pms ....Coug

PMS? For an electrical problem...you lost me... LAtely, that's not tough to do, though...

RK

Coug--

PMs...got it...never mind the previous post...

Thanks--

RK