I know all too well about overloading at stator. My buddies with the 1999 - 2003 Ultras all had their generator systems melt down while on our annual road trips. The damn things literally burned up the stators and took out the volt reg and battery around the 30,000 mile mark. One trip to the Outer Banks left us at a dealer in Ocean City Md for 5 hours costing him $1,000 bill. Seems those were prone to overload with the spots on, radio on and cruise on. So with that said, I don't want to go thru that with especially hard to get and non stocked parts for our Road Stars not to mention the flack for my "import" bike. I won't even get into the dealer issue. In that regards the harley guys have it good as those higher output parts are stocked and techs ready to do the job to those stranded on a bike trip. I hope Evan has me on the list for the 2001 upgrade system.....

esport_evan wrote:
Hi guys,
a quick update.

The ESG752 listed on the Phat Performance site is not the current version.
I believe they have it listed from the previous inventory we had of ESG752's that were built incorrectly. We don't currently sell that part at all.

You guys will still be the first to know when I have them available.
We're probably still looking at a couple months before having them in stock here.
We've had some delays and priorities change with other parts that have caused the RoadStar stators to take longer than I planned to finish production.

As far as the Harley stators being more powerful, this is mainly due to size limitations.
The Harley stator is roughly 135mm diameter, and 32mm tall. The Roadstar stator is about 105mm diameter by 19mm tall. You can just get more turns of larger gauge wire on a Harley stator than you can on the Roadstar! We're getting as close as we can, but you're basically limited by flywheel and sidecase size.

Hope you guys are already having a great New Years!
Back to work!
-Evan

ev, we could have rewrapped our own nice and pretty by now.

same # of turns with a larger guage wire? better grade of wire? and have you concidered a better magnet material & armature housing for the magnet?

couldnt you use a better magnet material like a rod and pott up in plastic rows of them and bond that into the armature cup?

what is the side clearance between the inside of that part and the edge of the stator? is their any room for a donut magnet? can it be lathed to accomodate a ring bonded inside?

i bet you could make that part half as light and twice as strong by using alternate materials.

what about 3 sets of magnets that look like a curved channel & fit right over the stator that attach with some countersunk screws and some shims to get accurate alignment.

havent you engineered the balls off of what is possible to do, i wish i had the facilities.....

i'm ready to mount a 10AHr lawnmower alternator to run off of the belt drive at this point, and i'm sure kuryakn would make a pretty (ailbet pricy) cover to hide it behind mounted to the swing arm. might need a 4:1 gear reduction too.

might even be able to mount it with a rubber gearwheel and drive it off of the open side of the pulley, with an adjustable slide mount to the swingarm tubes. (and again kurykn can make a nice side cover for hiding it)...

18v @ 10AHr would do some nice heated gloves and toe warmers...

2ringstar wrote:
There is a place called RM Stators that has some dimensions but I have not actually measured one.

OUTSIDE DIAMETER: 103.36MM INSIDE DIAMETER: 41.80MM WIDTH OF THE STACK: 30.71MM LENGHT OF WIRING HARNESS: 40 INCHES RED: BLACK: 3X 1-4 OHMS YELLOW: ORANGE: GREEN: ALWAYS +- 20%

No idea what the output is though..

I wait patiently for the electro-sport part to come out. When the weather breaks will not be able to use my spot lights or play the radio due to the piss poor factory charging system.

now what YOU COULD DO if you dont mind the required maintenance, is (if you) have room in the ferring is to mount some batteries.
their are 5AHr sub c cells and 11 of them (NiMH) make a 13.2V pack. add a diode so they arn't drained by anything but the radio AND the added .7V the diod needs to conduct brings the # to 13.8 so it would be an even match for the regulator's output? or close enough. closer than a 4 cell 14.8V LiPO battery.

we use the sub c size for racing RC toys. a HU (radio head unit) with 4x50W @ 13V on full blast i estimate would need ~ 14 Ampers to run for 1Hr.

i just priced out 12AHr D cells w/3 4cell holders, ~$160 shipped, little pricey for me, i would try and mount 2 sealed gell batteries such as from a UPS or emergency lighting replacement, or even strip the parts out of one or 2 of those cheap $45 battery jump boxes commonly found at auto parts stores.

Erbman02 wrote:
Big Bear wrote:


Plenty of guys are running light bars on stock charging systems (1600 R*) , don't know anyone personally with a radio on one. Adding a light bar will not prevent your bike from being rideable , even with the old system , just be careful not to overload it with too many goodies. BB

Yep, you're right as far as only a light bar, the system can handle it. but when I added the fairing with radio, that went right out the door. My voltage took an additional 1 to 1.5v drop with radio and lights on, had no choice but to up-grade to the newer system. As of now, I only see a 3/4v drop with both on, so I'm still over 13v. One day I would like to put an ammeter in-line to see how each item pulls current.

you have any other V meter? get a cheap one. you make a shunt from some 6Ga wire and some 4p finish nails (or some version thereof), put one throught he wire a half inch from the end, and the other where you read an even quarter or tenth of an ohm.

now you wire this IN SERIES with the load, ie the radio, and with the radio on you measure the voltage across the shunt, and divide that by the value in ohms of the shunt, this is the AHr your pulling through the shunt. (AHr x V gives you the Watts, if that is a better value for you to concider).

The Gardener wrote:

now what YOU COULD DO if you dont mind the required maintenance, is (if you) have room in the ferring is to mount some batteries.


I always wondered about this approach...extra batteries. What is the weight like and how are they recharged? I wonder if this requires an external charge after they exhaust of if they could also rely on the bikes battery. Mounting in the saddlebag comes to mind.

Thanks.

The Gardener wrote:
esport_evan wrote:
Hi guys,
a quick update.

The ESG752 listed on the Phat Performance site is not the current version.
I believe they have it listed from the previous inventory we had of ESG752's that were built incorrectly. We don't currently sell that part at all.

You guys will still be the first to know when I have them available.
We're probably still looking at a couple months before having them in stock here.
We've had some delays and priorities change with other parts that have caused the RoadStar stators to take longer than I planned to finish production.

As far as the Harley stators being more powerful, this is mainly due to size limitations.
The Harley stator is roughly 135mm diameter, and 32mm tall. The Roadstar stator is about 105mm diameter by 19mm tall. You can just get more turns of larger gauge wire on a Harley stator than you can on the Roadstar! We're getting as close as we can, but you're basically limited by flywheel and sidecase size.

Hope you guys are already having a great New Years!
Back to work!
-Evan

ev, we could have rewrapped our own nice and pretty by now.

same # of turns with a larger guage wire? better grade of wire? and have you concidered a better magnet material & armature housing for the magnet?

couldnt you use a better magnet material like a rod and pott up in plastic rows of them and bond that into the armature cup?

what is the side clearance between the inside of that part and the edge of the stator? is their any room for a donut magnet? can it be lathed to accomodate a ring bonded inside?

i bet you could make that part half as light and twice as strong by using alternate materials.

what about 3 sets of magnets that look like a curved channel & fit right over the stator that attach with some countersunk screws and some shims to get accurate alignment.

havent you engineered the balls off of what is possible to do, i wish i had the facilities.....

i'm ready to mount a 10AHr lawnmower alternator to run off of the belt drive at this point, and i'm sure kuryakn would make a pretty (ailbet pricy) cover to hide it behind mounted to the swing arm. might need a 4:1 gear reduction too.

might even be able to mount it with a rubber gearwheel and drive it off of the open side of the pulley, with an adjustable slide mount to the swingarm tubes. (and again kurykn can make a nice side cover for hiding it)...

18v @ 10AHr would do some nice heated gloves and toe warmers...

Hey Gardener,

Thanks for the ideas.
If you'd prefer to wrap your own, please be my guest!
I'm trying to have parts available for you guys as soon as possible, but we're a small company with hundreds of part numbers, and at times other parts that are already backordered take priority over new parts.

You can't wrap the R* stator with same # of turns of larger wire, we're already maxed out with the largest gauge we can use and still physically fit the stator easily in the sidecase.
If we went up a gauge with the same # of turns, the part literally wouldn't fit, it would rub the flywheel.

An upgraded flywheel is certainly a possibility, but that is not really a focus of ours.
We do some flywheels for specific applications, but are not planning on doing so in this case.
I do not have a R* flywheel at the moment to mount and measure the clearance between stator and magnet surface, although the air gap should be roughly 2-3mm.

There is no doubt in my mind that the part could be lighter and stronger than OEM by using alternate materials, but we focus mainly on stator improvements here, not flywheel engineering.

I would love to engineer the balls off of this part (well said!! ) but I am a one-man R&D Department, with hundreds of other parts to look after and improve, not to mention develop new parts. This prevents me from going too in depth on this part.
Since I have a good tested, working, higher output part which is a legitimate improvement to the Roadstar charging system, I have to leave it at that for now.

All that being said, I understand you guys' frustration and need for a solid charging solution on these bikes, and I intend to provide it.
Like always, I'll be on here posting the second I have these parts in stock!!

Take care guys,

Evan

Hi Evan,
I'm at that point of maintenance on my 07 Midnight Silverado, where I'm going to put it on the left, do some e value adjustment, clutch conversion (Barrett), and while I've got it all on the lift and apart....hopefully a Electrosports Stator/Rectifier combo package change out. Last word from you was three (3) months ago. Are you Electrosports even close for the 2010 calendar year? What say you?

You have the 07 model. Electrosports stator is not going to give you any more then what you have. You would be wasting your money! IMHO!

ya someone needs to invent a larger flywheel/case cover for us and sell it cheap