This is a strange one,i installed new Max Air batter cables from starter to starter solenoid,from solenoid to poss on battery,neg cable to neg battery and ground to oil tank in stock location,and lastly plugged in the grnd connector on new new max air neg/grnd cable too.

Then nothing ,now power anywhere.

This is on an 06 silverado.

* checked both fuses on starter solenoid and both test good & look ok too.

* Rechecked all connections on new batt cables & are clean & tight.

* Checked continuity on each new max air cable from end to end and all chk out ok.

* Took the white colored center elec plug off the starter solenoid to ensure there was no corrosion and non found,all wires in connector look fine and are tights,reconnected the connector.

* Took the old long battery cable that ran from starter relay to starter and used that to jump the new max air cabels both on poss and new batt terminals,nothing now power.

* I checked all plugs/wires close to where i was working to ensure i didn't accidentially loosen somehting up and unplug a connector or pull a wire out of a connection and all was ok.

* I also cheched to ensure each connector was actually making contact post tightening it.

* Checked batt & its hot too.


Could the starter relay be so fragile that just removong the stock batt cables and reinstalling the new ones damaged it internally so no consinuity anymore?

Anyone have a quick elec test i could do to verify if the starter solenoid is ok along with any other suggestions of thing to look for?

This is very strange because the install went fine with no issues at all and i didn't touch anything but the batt cables and have verified all ne batt cables are ok with continuity on both ends of all 3 new calbes and jumped each new cable with the ld stock known good long starter cable and nothing,the bike isdead now!!!!

Scott

Scott
You didn't accidently loose power to the small wire that powers the relay from the ignition or start button? Other than that all you can do is start checking for 12v. Starting at the battery and move to the relay on battery side should be Batt voltage. If power there check for 12v on the starter side of the relay with ign on and start button pushed. If 12v relay is good. you should be able to hear or feel the relay activate.

davej wrote:
Scott
You didn't accidently loose power to the small wire that powers the relay from the ignition or start button? Other than that all you can do is start checking for 12v. Starting at the battery and move to the relay on battery side should be Batt voltage. If power there check for 12v on the starter side of the relay with ign on and start button pushed. If 12v relay is good. you should be able to hear or feel the relay activate.

Hi Dave,thanks for the reply & info.

Well,i didnt do anything but replce the 3 batt cables in the biek and its all dead,no power anywhere.

I checked all the connections at the stater solenoid and all wires/plugs are intact and tight.

again,i also jumped all new batt cables in case 1 was open even though continuity chk'd ok but still no power.

I got power when i ran jumper from poss batt term to fat red power wire that enters center right of main white connection in solenoid,then everything power up fine,i wonde if putting trq to bolts when tightenng the new batt cables to solenoid damages it causing an open /no elec contact inside?

I didnt throw all i have at it when tightening the batt cables and didt hear any crack noise like it cracked but the solenoid was the only thing i really had to touch and or move at all other then batt cables themselves when installing the new max air lrg capacity batt cables.

I think it may be the starter relay/solenoid because its the only componant i touched on the bike and when i ran 12v from pos bat post to that 1 red hot wires in the white plug everything fired up just fine.

I didn't touch anything to do with the ign sw,ign cut off sw,etc to have loosended anything or borken any of those wires inside insualtion etc.

Just very strange ,i only replacred te batt cables and lghtly touched/moved starter solenoid to remove old bat cables and install ne batt cables and shat it,all i did.

Bike is an 06 silverado with 7k miles and hasnt had any mechanical/elec issues until swapping out the batt cables.

Do you or anyone else have anymore ideas or know how to test the starter solenoid it self?

I checked yami factory srvc man but didnt find a direct area/part that specifically shows how to test starter solenoid,found a lot of other stuff but not how to test starter solneoid unless in missed the tress among the forest/LOL!!!!!!

Scott

I have'nt looked at the relay. Does it have a jam nut holding the stud tight in the relay or is the stud moulded into the relay? If it has a jam nut, make sure the jam nut is tight. If the stud moved at all when you tighten it you may have a new relay in your future. When you say you didn't here anything crack that tells me you have been there done that . I think we all have if we ever had a ford. The ing wires I was referring to are the small wires on the relay. also check the fuses on the relay.

davej wrote:
I have'nt looked at the relay. Does it have a jam nut holding the stud tight in the relay or is the stud moulded into the relay? If it has a jam nut, make sure the jam nut is tight. If the stud moved at all when you tighten it you may have a new relay in your future. When you say you didn't here anything crack that tells me you have been there done that . I think we all have if we ever had a ford. The ing wires I was referring to are the small wires on the relay.

The batt cables hook to solenoid using small screws that thread into brass studs with no jam nut holding the stud/s into the solenoid & niether of them seemd to loosen up.

Yup,i checked the 2 small wires entering the lrg white plug in the starter solenoid and they dont seem to be loose and or broken internally or pulled/streched etc,metal spades on the ends of thse small wires are tight etc ,all seems ok.

So since i had to move that solenoid and throw some trq on it to get screws loose then to also tighten the new batt cables to it i bet something let loose inside even tough i didn't give it all the trq i had and wasnt using a 1'2 " drive rachet either/LOL!!!!!!!

If i cant find info on how to test or nobody knows how to do just that on the R* i may take a chance and buy a new starter solenoid because thats the only componant that was touched at all .

It just about has to be that dang solenoid that took a dump when either breakin the very tight original screws loose to get old batt cables off or maybe when i installed the batt cables.

Scott

Well if you have input voltage to the relay every place it is needed including the signal voltage to activate the relay. And you have no voltage coming out. That is the test. And your correct the relay would be the problem.

davej wrote:
Well if you have input voltage to the relay every place it is needed including the signal voltage to activate the relay. And you have no voltage coming out. That is the test. And your correct the relay would be the problem.

It sure seems that way so i am going to see how much my local Yami STEELER wants for the realy,online it $36.40, but i bet the local STEELER is approx $55-60.

Thanks for the help,when i locate a new starter relay i will post the result.

Scott

HI guys,installed the new starter relay and all is back to normal,got full power and bike fires right up.

BTW,it spins over considerably faster with the larger capacity maxair battery cables then it ever did with the stock skinny battery cables,they are well worth the $.

Next upgrade to elec system will be moving up to a more powerfull 310 CCA battery when current stock 270 CCA battery gets tired.

Then if the starter ever get's tired i will then move up to the higher trq warrior type starter sold by Thnderfire.

I will at the same time install the higher amp starter relay also from the warror that's required to handle the higher amps the the warrior starter requires to work up to it's full potential.

Scott