I have 2 wire LEDs to swap out my front turn signals. The LEDs are 2 wire. Anyone know which two of the three stock lines I should use?

Black wire is ground, dark green and brown are the turn signals.

using a 2 wire, you can only get either running lights or turn signals. You cannot get both.

Erbman02 wrote:
using a 2 wire, you can only get either running lights or turn signals. You cannot get both.

I hate to disagree with you Erbman, but I just replaced my stock turn signal with two wire led strips. They stay on all the time and blink like normal. I did have to put in a pair of load equalizers though.

Don't be surprised if they burn out tho. In stock there are 3 wires going to the running/turn signals. 2 individual circuits. you are cross connecting the circuits.

The blue wire always has 12v once the key is in the on position, this keeps one filament of the lamp always on, the 2nd filament gets a on/off of 12v thru the turn signal relay. But you have both wires connected to the LED hot wire. Since the 12v is going to keep the LED strip on, then the voltage coming in thru the turn signal relay is causing a shutdown of the LED's. You cannot over voltage LED to get them to be brighter, they will POP

If they're like the ones I just took off because of the crappy ground problem (ended up just going back to amber 1157s for now), when I checked them with a battery charger I got the following results:

Negative cable clamped to housing, positive cable to either of the two contacts on the bottom of the housing - bright amber glow.

Negative cable clamped to housing, positive cable covering both of the contacts on the bottom of the housing - light is off.

It appears that as long only one contact has juice going to it, the LEDs are on full power. When both contacts have juice, it's off.

So when running down the road, the LEDs are on full, when you hit the signal it blinks from full on to off and back on again.

I've been wondering if there was something built into the bulb housing that worked some kind of magic or if I cut the bulb housing out and wired it directly in it would still work.





BD

Big Dawg wrote:
If they're like the ones I just took off because of the crappy ground problem (ended up just going back to amber 1157s for now), when I checked them with a battery charger I got the following results:

Negative cable clamped to housing, positive cable to either of the two contacts on the bottom of the housing - bright amber glow.

Negative cable clamped to housing, positive cable covering both of the contacts on the bottom of the housing - light is off.

It appears that as long only one contact has juice going to it, the LEDs are on full power. When both contacts have juice, it's off.

So when running down the road, the LEDs are on full, when you hit the signal it blinks from full on to off and back on again.

I've been wondering if there was something built into the bulb housing that worked some kind of magic or if I cut the bulb housing out and wired it directly in it would still work.





BD

Sounds like that's how they're made. You should be OK with hard wiring them just don't remove any PC board that may inside the bulb housing. Take the bulb housing off carefully to determine which wire goes where.