I'm going to have the cash to spend shortly, so I want to have a clear outline of what I'm going to get instead of jumping in without a plan. Obviously, I've got to have a methodical approach to make sure I get the most for my money and never need to go back and replace anything I end up unhappy with.

Goals: Very pronounced power gain from idle to redline. I don't want a peaky engine and I don't want too much bottom end grunt that peters out at half throttle. It has to maintain stock reliability and it has to run on 87 octane pump gas. I'm presently taking potential gains versus cost as my primary determining factor when it comes to which parts I'm planning on using. I'd like to stay within a $2500 budget, but that sure doesn't mean I want to spend every penny of $2500.

The parts I plan on replacing with the best prices I could find:

Ignition: Dyna 3k @ 5500 RPM Limiter [$210]

Pistons: PR 110ci (1810cc) 10:1 @ 10:1 Compression [$845]

Cams: Speedstars are cheaper, but PR claims off idle power. The price difference is significant... ($521-885) Hopefully I can score some online under retail. These are ridiculously expensive.

Valve Springs: PR units [$225]

31 Tooth Final Drive Gear [$170]

Head Work: Undecided on oversized valves. Don't know if I want head work at all. Not sure it's necessary. It's my understanding that oversized valves make for a peaky engine. I want plenty of power from idle out with a relatively flat torque curve. I'm weighing options from buying complete Speedstar heads to buying used heads on eBay and sending them for porting. What's the general consensus on this?

Carburetor: 45mm Mikuni [$250ish for an HD carb]

Manifold: I'm going to port the stocker myself. [$0]

Exhaust: I think they're V&H Longshots. I won't be changing them. [$0]

Clutch: Speedstar Stage IV [$0 (already installed)]

Oil pump: Speedstar Stage IV [$0 (already installed)]

There's a high flow petcock on the PCS Roadie performance page. They claim the stock petcock is barely sufficient to run the stock engine. Is there any truth to this at all or are they just trying to get $82 for a steel valve?

No head work with the most inexpensive parts: $2251
Shipping would eat up the rest of my self imposed budget. I'm pretty new to this particular bike, so input about anything I've said at all is very welcome. Thanks for reading.

I doubt you'll be able to run 87 at that compression.

You want a smart reply? Find out a 'package' that works and go with it. When you try to mix and match performance parts from everywhere in an untried package, the results are often disappointing.

Another smart suggestion, and please forgive me for seeming arrogant, but save more and buy a built motor from a proven formula... don't try to build it yourself from parts and ideas from several sources... you'll be sorting it out forever, if ever.

I know what I'm talking about from SCCA sports car racing days of almost 30 years ago. That experience applies here.

If you've already read somewhere, and know of someone whose made this specific package of after market products work well together then my advice would be go with that to the "T".

Yeah, I've got to admit, I forget how twitchy V twins are when it comes to tuning. It doesn't take much to screw them up. I guess I could go with the total Speedstar package, since I'm already a couple of parts into it, but I really had my heart set on those 1810cc's.

CruzN, check out this link. http://somender-singh.com/content/view/7/31/
No cost, can't hurt and may be the best single mod that you do. I don't have first hand experience with it myself but I will on the next engine that have apart.