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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo
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TOPIC: Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo
#978302
Ypsilon (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
Everything is hand made by myself except flanges for turbo. There are still some things to be finished better, but i'll just ride this summer Thanks for the reviews guys! My ride still feels a bit Mad Max compared to most of the bikes here, which are really clean and well painted and all
 
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#978307
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
MadMax or not, that is one badass machine. Would love to ride a Roadie that makes that kind of power. Well done sir
 
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#978321
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  

From Madera,Ca. Wow what a cool looking ride.Ken
 
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#978325
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
Ypsilon wrote:
Everything is hand made by myself except flanges for turbo. There are still some things to be finished better, but i'll just ride this summer Thanks for the reviews guys! My ride still feels a bit Mad Max compared to most of the bikes here, which are really clean and well painted and all Specific Details ! Please list Step By Step how this build happened and the equipment and parts used.
 
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#978326
BikerRon (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
Good Lord!

With that kind of power these guys would have to become my best, new friends.



Welcome to the Clinic.
 
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#978353
Questcap (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
First Q that's got to be asked is: How do you get that power to the ground, knowing what our clutches are like just trying to manage stock HP?!?!?
 
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#978357
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
Ok... The parts list on this steelbull is following and prices are in euros. I don't have much pictures from the project unfortunately. Iäll take closeup pictures from the bike.

Seat leon cupra r turbocharger - http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/model/seat/leon/bhp225/2003_na_4919.aspx =500e (new aftermarket. Pretty much any turbo is good unless it's way too big or small. And the shape of the turbo is also a big factor, so you can mount it in reasonable place. Internal wastegate is almost must if you don't want to do extra pipewelding. )
PLX wideband air/fuel ratio gauge=270e (narrowband doesn't do sh*t so don't try to save money on this)
High pressure fuelpump=150e (you need the pump to make AT LEAST 0,2 bar pressure OVER the amount of boost so that fuel can be fed into carb. Mine makes 5bar and the pressure regulator cuts the pressure to correct so don't be afraid)
1:1 boost referenced fuel pressure regulator = 50e (means it rises the fuel pressure in same volume as the boost goes higher)
Boost gauge = 50e (use liquid dampened since the engine pulse is massive, and otherwise all you see is a blur of the needle)
Barnett clutch set = 400e (prefer stiffer 99lb springs that you can by)
Oilcooler=100e (It's good to have it since it does affect the airflow a little bit and it never hurts to keep oil temp low)
42mm diameter RST pipe and curves for the exhaust manifold = 40e
3" RST Pipe and curves for the exhaust = 80e
50mm RST pipe and curves for the plenum and piping from the turbo = 40e
Airfilter=30e
Custom Intercooler = 240e (it's not a must since the boost is pretty low, but I already had it so I used it. It's the pressure that makes the air hot, so if you have 1000hp with 0,2bar boost you DON'T need an intercooler.)
Turbosmart Boost-t boost controller=100e (a must have since you need to be able to set the boost exactly where you want it. And this makes the boost rise really fast)
Tons of time, welding, small tubing and nerves = 0e

Ok so that's the must have parts list without small bolts and washers etc... The first, important and also most time consuming part is to plan how to do the piping without blocking every coddamn place you need to enter for maintenance or burning your leg to hell. Lucky for us the Roadie is as simple as the politicans here in Finland. So you need to make some sort of jig for the turbo to be set in place it's going to be, while you cut and weld the piping. Remember that RST steel bends ALOT while welded so you may need to force bend the manifold a bit after it's complete. A jig is great, but also difficult to make accurately so I forced mine in a workbench until it went in nicely. Also using a very short flexible exhaust joint is possible. In the pictures you can see that you can get pretty much everywhere you need on the side of the engine, and you can get to the carb just by removing 3 bolts and by lifting the tank. Also disconnect the battery if you weld anything in place so you don't fu*k up the voltage regulator as i did

I don't know how to tell clearly how to do the welding or finding the place for the turbo. It's up to you, but the turbo needs to be horizontal and above the place you want the oil to return. This I did by drilling a hole on the side cover as you can see in the pics, and by placing a...thing (can't remember it in english) where to connect the oil return line. This needs to be same diameter or bigger as the oil return hole on the bottom of the turbo body. I took the turbo oil pressure side from the very start of the oil lines that go to the top end of engine. You just need a double length banjo and ALWAYS change the copperwashers to new ones if you remove them. From that connection it goes to the oilcooler if you have it, and from the oilcooler to the top end of the turbo. My turbo also has coolant liquid connections but you don't need those so block them or leave them as they are.

So let's assume you have the exhaust manifold and the turbo sitting in place, and everything is just fine and dandy (he said with thick southern accent...) Then you need a plenum (airbox connected to carb). There is no correct size or shape for it, since all it does in a single carb setup is that it evens the pulses of the engine from hitting back. But some say 1-1,5 times engine size is good. In bikes with more carbs, it also distributes air evenly for every carb. Why this is important in single carb setup is that you have a pitot tube in the charge pipe between turbo and plenum. It connects to the float chamber overflow hole. This creates pressure in the float chamber when boost builds, and takes care of enrichment when boost starts to rise. The pulses could affect the pressurising.
You need one connection on side of the plenum for the fuel pressure regulator. At the moment I have two and the other goes to the connection at the top of the carb, under the diephram. This is what causes my leanspot when boost starts to rise and needs to be fixed the following way. Block the connection at the top of the carb and DRILL a 3-4mm diameter hole from the area under the diaphram to the mouth of the carb. Then the pressure is realistic under the diaphram. Now that it's connected to the plenum, there is a pressure difference and the slide doesn't rise fast enough at low rpm.
The carb mouth has two stock airholes. One for the idle and one for the main jet. You need to block the one going for the main jet. Otherwise the float chamber pressure pushes fuel and pressure through that hole. Don't worry, it doesn't affect anything else on this setup.

The fuel lines are very simple. Just always use equal size tubing as the connections. Tank->fuelpump->filter->fuel pressure regulator. Regulator then continues to float chamber, plenum and to the top of the tank (fuel return line) in seperate connections.
Only changes needed is to weld a fuel return connection on top of the fuel tank (same size as the connection in the fuel pressure regulator) and remove the filters inside the tank end of the petcock. You can also change the petcock into a model that uses the reserve line as a return line, but i really wanted to keep that feature. Just remove the filters from the petcock that are inside the tank. It affects the fuel pumps ability to draw fuel. Instead you put a filter between pump and regulator.
My carb had been dry for weeks so the seals needed to be changed. It flooded before changing the seals. I also used the original fuelpump wiring connector. Cut the wires near the old pump and attach to the new fuelpump with wire connectors.
The pitot tube that pressurises float chamber is a bit tricky. It needs to be about 4mm in inside diameter, facing the turbo, in the middle of the cold pipe and at correct distance from the turbo and plenum. Too close to the plenum, creates lean mixture and takes a larger mainjet. Too close to turbo creates a rich mixture and takes a smaller jet. Neither end is good. 20% change to smaller or bigger in mainjet size is ok. Good spot for the pitot can mean stock jetting. I drilled my mainjet 0.25mm bigger. Take your time on finding the right distance, it really pays off.
There are some good webpages to learn about pitot tubing. I'll link some of them.

Then there are some tubing to be made. between following items.
boost gauge---intake manifold (between cylinders there is a place for it. It needs to be AFTER the carb, not before)
turbo compressor housing---wastegate (weld a place for it in the compressor housing or drill a hole and make a connection with threads. right after the turbo is also ok but the furter you go, the more the boost might spike and thats not good. Also the boost controller is installed between turbo compressor and wastegate)

Well thats some i came up with Sounds wprse than it is, but have at least somebody to help you if your not good with mechanics. I propably forgot alot of small things but that gives you a picture I hope. Ask if something comes to mind
 
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#978358
Ypsilon (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
The barnett clutch setup with stiffest (99b) springs is way enough for this amount. Also as you can see from the dynochart, the power and torque don't come so suddenly as you might think. When I fix the leanspot, the stock 134Nm should come at 1500-1750rpm rising all the way to the maximum of 180Nm. And I really don't take clutchbomb accelerations. Thats what brakes places if something does. If you take off 1st gear with this straight, it desn't burn rubber since it weights 15million tons and is really long bike. But it is a mistake to use half throttle from stock when it's wet, or when turning even a little bit on dry with full throttle. The shift from 1st to 2nd was pretty slippery even on dry long curve
 
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#978360
Ypsilon (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
https://vimeo.com/174225608 Theres the sound when driving in town. The phone was in my pocket. Well see is the sound too big or do I need a muffler for the inspection. And yes, I'll take it off right after
 
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#978363
Orthogonal (User)
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Re:Roadstar 1600cc Turbo 1 Year, 3 Months ago  
really cool. mad max for sure. did you recover the seat in leather? looks like it.
what type of paint on the tank? how did you apply it and what did you do to the spot where tank badge was?
 
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