Well, it's official, I don't know what the heck I'm doing.

Or I should say, I could probably get this done and feel confident about it if I had directions for a novice and some really decent photos.
Got the covers and gaskets all off just fine. Instructions talk about removing the rocker cover spacer plate (the plate below the covers) and ended up scratching my head for a while until I opened up Clymer's and found out that the '04 and up doesn't have one.
Jacked up the back of the bike and rotated the wheel as suggested here to bring the 1st piston to the top of the stroke and hit the proverbial wall. The things I need to see and really get to are still a smidgeon below the top of the head, just enough I can't get a visual on where the valve stem meets the rocker arm. I tried inserting several of the smallest feller gauges up in there (from 0.015 to 0.030) and, of course, none of them slide through.
So go the other route, right? I'll be pickled if I can see how to get my dial gauge on the tip of the rocker finger, even from the suggested locations for attaching my magnetic base.
So where am I? I cleaned up the parts and put it all back together. Have a scheduled ride this weekend, so I had to have it up and running. I'll tackle this again sometime in the future, hopefully with better, clearer instructions (for a later model)and maybe photos for how to set up the dial gauge with magnetic mount. And maybe a buddy with more experience.
I'm a pretty good wrench usually, and follow directions well. But I guess with no prior valve experience on a bike, I just couldn't fill in the blanks. Coils are wrapped anyway, and the bike fired right up. Also learned more about the bike in the process and a trick for getting a couple of the cover bolts back in.