The spirit(s) of the season helped me write this holiday jingle. I'm sharing it becuase none of you know me from Adam

Happy, happy holidays,
riding o'er town.
A gent pulls beside,
and revs his new ride,

...now suck my exhaust, HOG!








cripes, I put this in the wrong category, guys. Should be in General or Misc.

sorry <br><br>Post edited by: sjh55, at: 2006/12/20 20:50

DocShadow wrote:
What carb model is stock in a Roadstar 1700 (2006)

Mikuni BSR40

What jets are stock?

Mikuni 182.5 main, #35 pilot

What size screws are used in the float bowl? (these are destroyed when changing jets the first time and I plan to replace with socket head type)

Have to look that one up

Is Kuryakan jet size/numbering nomenclature the same as the stock jet manufacturer?

Yes, they both use Mikuni jets

Too bad Gram doesn't come on often as he has a lot of experience with analyzers.

The ported manifold will make some difference in that it provides a better distribution of air between the two cylinders. However, in the end the front and back will run lean/rich due to the different air flow over the cylinders (the back is more sheltered).

Your main is most likely too big. I'd start with a 172.5 and work down from there. A 170 or 167.5 seems to be where most end up with aftermarket intake and exhaust modifications.

DocPost edited by: DocShadow, at: 2006/12/20 13:16

Thanks for the info, Doc. I was thinking the main was too large and will probably change that tomorrow and run another 0x test after adjusting it to idle smoothly and test driving. I'm sure it will have a big effect. It runs great now, being so rich as has been mentioned here about Roadstars, so I'm not too worried about that while I'm riding tonight. It's a little sluggish from 1/8-1/2 throttle, but it picks up nicely from there to 70mph. That's on track for how rich it is with main jet 182.5. Can't wait to feel it's potential when it's finely tuned.

I apologize to all you northerns that can't ride right now for bringing up how beautiful the weather is here. The weather here has been fantastic, however, and I know you'd be out there if you could!

Have a good and safe night,
Steve
(Or skillet as my brother calls me. Can't wait to get up there and see him in the bluegrass state next week, but I'll be couch bound too, I'm afraid.
Torn down is the slowest color.<br><br>Post edited by: sjh55, at: 2006/12/20 20:51

&quot;It's a little sluggish from 1/8-1/2 throttle, but it picks up nicely from there to 70mph&quot;

Well Sillet that's 'cause you're to lean on the needle. You need to be at least on the 3rd groove from the top.

Doc

Thanks Doc. I was avoiding changing needle settings until I got the main right, but you're probably right on the clip position. With it idling so rich it's hard to tell what's what, at least for me. I do take the fact that you and other here have experience and the repeatedly consistent final settings that have been posted speak volumes for what works in the real world.

What's still a little confusing to me as a relative novice to carb tuning (I just bought my drag car this past year and although I've read alot on the subject of jetting/tuning I haven't had it on the track yet) is the fact that if you're off by alot with one or more of the carb circuits they can have a large effect if not overwhelm other circuits during the initial stages of tuning/testing. That's what I've found anyway. I tend to look at things as being more complicated than they need to be most of the time anyway.

However, this time I'm taking yours and others advice and short-cutting right to the sized recommended here. Right now I've got the carb off and I'm looking for the comparison chart between DynaJet markings/sizes and stock make to see what is actually 170 in DynaJet. I'll go ahead and change the needle to the third clip from the top of the needle too and take a test drive and analyzer readings. I plan to post the reading when I get it tuned so others might benefit from the comparison between jet/needles adjustments and resulting air/fuel mix. I got my Dyna 3000 today and might try that this afternoon too

I also have a laser temp gun and thought it might be useful to make a spreadsheet when I get back from my trip north listing temps across the engine/oil filter/transfer case/exhaust once I reach my final carb settings too. Maybe I've just got too much time on my hands for my own good?

Thanks again for the advice.
Skillet

Here's the link to the jet chart comparison for DynoJet and Mikuni once again:
http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/61/96/

Looks like a DynoJet 180 will fall between your recommended Mikuni sizes of 170 and 165. After checking, that size is not in their kit. Also, the head size of their jets is so small it almost fits inside the stock main's sleeve, so I'm going with a Kuryakan 175 instead and send the DynoJet kit back. I think I read that Barons had a better jet kit?<br><br>Post edited by: sjh55, at: 2006/12/21 14:21

You are correct .... the circuits bleed over and if you're rich on one it will affect the other, especially and overly large main.

The Baron's kit is not better as far as jets as they use standard Mikuni jets. It appears that the Baron's needle may be a bit better but I think the viewpoint may be subjective.

The KuryAkyn has Mikuni jets. Make sure you to stick with one brand.

Gotta go. Talk later.

Doc