Storing here until we have time to convert to an article.
Response to a member of another forum. Question was about how to install the MaxMix
PMS screw..
There is a tank hold down bolt in the rear, just under the nose of the seat. It is 10mm on both sides (nut and bolt) and runs horizontally under the very back of the tank. Remove that bolt.
Then you need to disconnect the gas level sensor. It is a green plug that juts out just below the nose of the seat.
Then remove the dash. Three 5mm bolts hold it in place. Two on the front facing portion, one on the very back. You have two options here to get it out of your way, most folks lay a towel over their bars, leave the wiring connected, and invert the dash over the top of the towel. I prefer to disconnect the two wiring connectors and remove it altogether. One of the two plugs is a real bit$% to get apart. It has what looks like a press tab holding it together, but it is in fact something that needs to be pushed up with something like a very small screwdriver.
After removing (or moving) the dash, disconnect your fuel line going into the petcock. It is held on by a "squeeze" style hose clamp, so not a big deal to remove. Make sure you turn your petcock to off, and I like to run the engine that way for a minute or so to help evacuate the end of the fuel line. Have a towel or rag handy in case it drips a little.
With the dash removed (or moved out of the way), the rear tank bolt removed, the gas line disconnected (and petcock turned to off), and the gas sensor plug unplugged, you are ready to remove the tank.
The tank has two receiving cups on the front that are "c" shaped and face forward. They go onto two rubber capped "stubs" that face out from the frame on both sides, roughly below the speedo. I like to grab the front of the tank, just behind the key tower, and the rear of the tank where the seat nose normally is. You will have to coax it backward by alternatly moving the rear from side to side while pulling back lightly on the front. Be careful here, when the receiver cups clear the frame stubs the tank is going to want to drop onto the heads. If you want to cover your bases put a couple of small towels over the top of the front head on each side.
Now you have your tank off, next step is to remove your air cleaner. The stock air cleaner is held on by three 5mm alan head bolts. Two that go into the jugs, and one on the bottom. IT is also held onto the
carb by a hose clamp high and just behind the air cleaner. It is a very soft and relatively large phillips head screw in the hose clamp. If it is real tight, be sure you have the right size phillips so you don't strip it.
After loosening the hose clamp to the carb, and the three 5mm alan head bolts, pull the air kit forward. You will see two hoses attached the back on the lower left side. One is relatively small - goes to the
AIS, and can usually be removed by just pulling on it. The other is larger and goes to your crankvent, and is secured by a clamping "squeeze style" hose clamp. Have a pair of plyers handy to remove the clamp and it will come right off.
Now you can remove the air kit.
Next you will need to do a couple of things to prepare for removing the carb. The choke on the left side of the bike will need to be disconnected from its bracket. It is held on by the REAR nut on the backside of the bracket. The one on the front is a tension nut (DON"T LOOSEN THIS ONE). The rear nut is a 17mm plastic nut. Loosen that all the way up until it can be slid off the threads and onto the cable.
Next, look for and disconnect the
TPS plug. It is usually attached to the frame with a zip tie just above the fuel pump assy. It is a triangle shaped plug and has three connectors in it. Disconnect that plug and cut the zip tie if you need to to free the bottom part of the wire that goes toward the carb.
Next disconnect the fuel line at the carb (this part goes better if you ran the bike out of gas before starting all this). The fuel line comes in on the lower left side of the carb as you are facing it. It is held in place with a "squeeze" style hose clamp.
Next loosen the throttle cables. They are held in place on a bracket to the upper right side of the carb. The nuts on top are 10mm. Loosen the top nuts enough that the lines can be wriggled out of the bracket (don't need to remove them yet, just getting them ready).
Next, you will need to loosen the hose clamp on the front of the manifold. It is a very soft phillips (if you have an 04 or earlier) so be careful loosening it. It clamps the end of the manifold onto the back of the carb throat. Its a real soft screw, again, so be careful that your screwdriver fits it. If your bike is an 05, this clamp nut will be a 3mm (I think, might be 4mm) alan head instead of a phillips.
Last thing before getting ready to pull the carb forward, reach underneath the carb and you will see two electrical connectors on the back left (bottom) side of the carb. They are both slide on connectors (one is a spade, the other a pin). These are your carb heater. Disconnect them both by pulling them down from the carb. Needle nose will come in handy here. They have plastic see through boots that make them slippery to hang onto.
Now you have the carb and all essential parts loosened up, so it is time to pull the carb forward. When you do, depending on year and California model or not, there may be another vacuum hose attached to either the bottom right facing back, and or the left side just above the throat facing left. Keep track of and remove these hoses.
With the carb slightely pulled forward, wriggle the throttle cables out of their bracket, and remove from the throttle plate the "nubbed" ends of the cables. If the cables are out the bracket they will literally slide to the right. You will see what I am talking about when you are looking at it.
Next, continuing to pull the carb forward, you will see the gas line that you disconnected going back into the gap between the jugs. It has to two tabs on it that are attached to the metal part of the line and design to be squeezed onto the TPS wire to hold it in place. Reach into the gap between the jugs with a very large flat blade screwdriver and insert it inbetween these tabs and the line. They are realtively soft and can be bent out by turning the screwdriver in the gap. This will loosen up the TPS line and allow you to free it from the gas line.
With the carb slightly forward, top more than the bottom, have a buddy go to the other side of the bike and pull the choke knob free from its bracket. You have to pull it left away from the bike until the narrowest part of the cable can slide through the open slot in the bracket. With the cab mounted, it is hard to get to the skinniest part of this line without pulling on the choke line. DON't do that. It will stretch the choke line out. Wait until you have the carb free and can manuver it enough not to have to stretch the line.
Have your buddy feed the choke cable back through the jugs to you.
Next have your buddy find the TPS line and feed it down through and around the manifold until it can also be pulled free.
Now you are ready to take the carb completely out. Be careful and try not to tip it over until you have it outside somewhere. There is alwasy some gas left in it even if you run it completely out of gas.
Then,,,, Follow the instructions on the clinic in our article on rejetting the carb. You can largely ignore most of it if you are only going to install the MaxMix screw. But the pictures there are great and it is very easy to understand.
Sorry for no pics. Maybe someone will chime in here and provide some to top this all off.
Also might get some more tips and or someone who has a better way to do part of this.
GRAM
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