When it came time for me to replace the fork oil in my 06 Roadie I sought guidance from the RSC and there was no compelte guide to replacing the fork oil. There are several ways to accomplish this task, and I will outline the way I did it successfully. During this process is a good time to replace brake pads and clean calipers if needed, and to clean repack and retorque the steering head bearings. Sorry I did not take pictures so I will hopefully describe the steps well enough to not need them. This is a very simple job with only very basic skills and tools required.

Tools needed:
12mm socket and end wrench
22mm, 24mm (15/16" works)27mm socket (1 1/4" works a little loose)
5mm, 6mm hex key wrench
Materials:
2 quarts fork oil (acutally you will need 1 quart and 5.4oz, 18.7 oz per fork 554cc)

Place the bike on a solid stand that can easily lift the front wheel off the ground. I use the Sears Red lift.

1. Prepare a place to put the windshield, fender, and wheel when removed. I like to put big towels down on the floor for this purpose out of the way.
2. Remove the windshield if you have one, 2, 12mm bolts each side and set aside.
3. Cover the Gas Tank with a heavy cloth, I use a fender skirt, as this is where the top clamp and handlebars will be placed later.
4. Remove both front brake calipers 2, 12mm bolts on each. Tie them back out of the way. I tie them to the crash bar with some coated wire.
5. Losen the pinch bolt 6mm on the lower right fork leg below the axle
6. Allow the lift to lower the front tire to light contact with the ground to take the weight off the axle.
7. With a 22mm wrench or socket remove the axle. Clean the axle and recoat with a light coating of grease and set aside for reassembly.
8. Gently lift the bike to provide clearance to remove the front wheel and set it aside.
9. Remove the front fender 6mm hex bolts 2 each side, and set it aside on the towels you put out earlier for this purpose.
10. While the fork tubes are secured in the clamp loosen the fork tube caps JUST LOOSEN them so you can easily remove them later when the fork tube is out of the clamp. It is easier to loosen the cap while it is retained in the top clamp than later when you have to hold the fork tube in one hand and loosen the cap with the other.
11. Loosen the upper pinch bolts 5mm hex 2 each side
12. Remove the cap nut on the top clamp 27mm (1 1/4" works a little loose) There is a chrome washer under the cap nut that you need to take off and set aside as it will roll away when you lift the top clamp and can go a long way!!!
13. From the front of the bike grab the handle bars, and gently rock back and forth to loosen the top clamp. The first time I did this I had to really loosen the pinch bolts and place very larg screw driver in the slot and expand the gap a little. Careful this is soft alumium and you can leave an impression in the top clamp with the screw driver.
14. Once the top clamp begins to move be careful as there is a tight clearance around the metering assembly (speedometer housing). Once off carefully lay the top clamp and handlebars back on the padded tank. Note how the cables are routed so you will be able to reroute them the same way.
15. Now you can remove the upper tins to expose the lower pinch bolts.
16. Get a large oil drain pan and place it so you have room to work with the fork around it.
17. One side at a time, loosen the lower pinch bolt 5mm hex. Make sure you are holding the fork tube in hand as when the pinch bolt is loosened the fork tube will slide out.
18. Remove the fork tube from the lower clamp.
19. CAREFULLY remove the top cap on the fork tube. Hold the fork tube in one hand and with a 24mm socket (15/16" in you hand loosen the cap. It is under spring pressure so you will need to press down on the cap to keep the spring pressure off the threads especially as you reach the last threads so the spring pressure does not damage these fine aluminum threads.
20. Once the cap is removed pour the contents of the fork into the oil drain pan. This can get messy if you just dump it as the spring will come out with the oil and splash every where. No I did not learn that the hard way at least this time! Note how the spring is inserted. I do not know if there is a top or bottom, but I wanted to make sure it went back the way it came out. Pump the fork tube into the fork leg several times to get as much of that icky nasty worn out old oil out. Mine was reddish black.
21. Fully extend the fork tube and hold it in one hand. I used a measured cylinder to pour 18.7 ounces (554cc) of Belray 5WT oil into the fork leg. I probably would and will go to 7wt next time, but that is up to you. Some go up to 10wt if for a firmer ride.
22. I pumped the fork leg a couple of time gently to get the oil circulated and then replaced the spring.
23. Now for the somewhat tricky part of this process. I held the fork tube in one hand and then with the 24mm socket alone with the top cap in it I pressed down on the spring to compress it and carefully began to thread the top cap. Take your time from others I have heard these fine aluminum threads are easy to strip. Once the threads start hand tighten the top cap.
24. Put the fork leg back in place as close as possible to the height it was before you removed it. You can get it close by the marks left on the fork tube at the lower clamp. Unless you carefully clean your fork tube like I did
25. Repeat the oil replacement on the other fork and replace in the lower clamp. Do not over tighten the lower clamp yet as the next step is to align the fork tubes.
26. With the lower clamp snugged tighten the top caps on the fork legs.
27. Replace the top clamp with the 27mm cap nut. You will remove it again so don't worry about the tins just yet. Now align the top of the fork tubes flush with the top surface of the top clamp. When both sides are the same tighten the lower pinch bolts securely 14 ft. lb. torque
28. Remove the top clamp again and reinsert the tins and replace. Tighten the cap nut 27mm 17 ft. lb. Don't forget the chrome washer you set aside earlier.
29. Tighten the upper pinch bolts 5mm 14 ft. lb.
30. Replace the front fender 6mm 2 each side
31. Roll the front tire into place and insert the axle, and tighten the 22mm axle into place and secure with the pinch bolt 6mm on the lower right fork leg.
32. Replace the brake calipers 12mm bolts 2 each side.
33. Now is a good time to pump the brake lever to get the pads in contact with the rotors.
34. Replace the windshield.
35. Lower you scoot off the lift and take her out for a smooth ride.

Overall the first time will take up to a couple of hours, the next time I can do it in under an hour and still have time to clean all those hard to reach places as I go.

Good luck, and let me know if I missed anything. Next time I will take pictures and add them to the tech article.