I'll try to be as descriptive as possible on how I did this. I took pics but I'm working with a dial-up connection and don't think I can get them posted.
First, the materials I used and approx. prices are...
1 3ft piece of 1/2"-20 fine threaded rod @ about $9.50
3 1/2"-20 thread nuts @ about $0.30 ea
4 1/2"-20 thread jam nuts @ about $0.50 ea
4 std right hand 1/2" female heim joints @ $5.99 ea
part #175-0205 from Speedway Motors (speedwaymotors.com)
2 1/2"-20 ny-lock locking nuts
1 1/2" machine bushing (small dia. washer)

A list of tools...
17mm wrenches and socket with extensions
3/4" wrenches and socket (deepwell) w/extensions
grinder/sander
cut-off wheel/hacksaw
1/2" drill
machinist's file and emery cloth
dial calipers or machinist's scale or a real good eye with a
tape measure

My first step was to cut the threaded rod to the needed length. After measuring the thread depth of the heim joints, I decided the best length was 9". This will make the dogbones about the same length as stock with them threaded all the way together. I put two 1/2" nuts on the rod spaced far enough apart to clamp them in the bench vise, so that the vise wouldn't damage the threads. The third nut is jammed against one of these nuts at the point where you're going to cut. I used a hand held grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the rod and polish the end flush with the nut. Remove the rod from the vise and run the two nuts near the cut down onto the rod to expose the cut end. Using a grinder or sanding disc GENTLY chamfer and deburr the sharp end of the rod. Now when you turn the nuts off the fresh cut end, they'll clean the threads at the cut so that the rod will easily thread into the heim joint. Assemble a jam nut and heim joint on each end and BINGO, you have an adjustable dogbone. I measured mine and made sure they were set to the stock length and shot the threads with a little black paint. I figured it would protect from corrosion and give a good reference line to measure from when I lenghten them.

Now, beware, these don't just simply bolt in. Yamaha used M12 metric bolts to hold the shock assembly together, and these dogbones have 1/2" holes and are wider than the stock dogbones. I found I could not just swap to a std 1/2" bolt as it wouldn't fit through the bushing sleeves in the stock assembly. I fixed this by using a little shim stock wrapped around the stock bolt (I used a strip of aluminum from a beer can) to take up the clearance between the heim joint and the bolt shank. I also needed a longer bolt for the front (because the adj bones are wider than stock) and an M12 bolt that long has to be ordered from the local fastener people. Call me impatient, I wanna ride. Here's what I did...

I took the longest of the stock bolts (the one from the front) and moved it to the rear, shimming it with 1/2" washers to get the length right. WARNING! MAKE SURE YOU CLEAR THE FRAME, IT'S A CLOSE FIT. I found it better to shim from the nut side, not the bolt head side. I would recommend puting the bolt in from the left side, so that the bolt head is on the belt side of the bike. Don't forget the aluminum shim stock in the heim ends. That's it for the back of the assembly.

Now, like I said, the right length bolt for the front wouldn't be in for four days and I wanted to ride. I used another piece of the threaded rod at the proper lenght to replace the front bolt, plus enough for a locking nut on each end. BEFORE I cut it too length, I chucked it into a 1/2" drill (a lathe or drill press would make this easier), and with a helper spun the rod while firmly holding the drill down to the bench. Using a file and emery cloth, turn the threaded rod down untill it just slides through the stock bushing. It doesn't take much, only about 0.010" to 0.020". The final fit was close enough that I didn't bother with the aluminum shim stock on this end. The stock bushing that goes through the front of the shock needs shortend to make room for the heim ends. Pull it out and cut it to 3.600". (about 3 and 9/16) Oil it up and slide it back into the shock, being carefull not to lose the o-rings inside the shock end. Now thread one of the locking nuts a little ways onto the rod. Before assembling, grind two notches on the nut, one on each side, to sit into the locking tabs on the left side of the frame. Slide the rod/nut through the left side frame, the heim joints and the shock bushing, and then the right side of the frame. Put the 1/2" machine bushing and other locking nut on the right side. I also shot the rod/nut on each side with a little satin black paint.

My first adjustment was 3/8" longer than stock...dangit man it was LOW. I began to doubt my measurements, it looked like more than the 1 1/2" I expected it to lower it. I weigh about 235 lbs and when I test rode it, I bottomed at the end of the drive and scraped the pipes on a right hand turn (yeah, I was tryin). I went back, pulled the rod/nut assembly from the front, dropped the front of the dogbones down and shortened them by 3 full turns. This gave me about 3/16" longer than stock and it rides right where I want it. I still have the stock spring so I increased the spring adjustment to the stiffest setting in the manual. Now the bike sits about an inch low at rest, more when I sit on it, and the floorboards are the first thing to drag when I lean. I'm very satisfied with the stance and handling this gave me and it cost me less than $50.

Nicely Done Mry75!!

I would welcome you to send the pics to me on a cd if you want to. Let me know, if that works I will pm my address to you.

Gram

Yeah man, cool, pm me your address and I'll drop them in the mail. I'll warn you tho, I'm not much of a photographer. Some of the pics are blurry.

PM sent.

Hey, Gram, I jus wondered if you ever got those pics I sent ya.

Yep, I did. Thanks for sending them.

Hoping to get this into our tech tips in the next week or so. It takes a couple of hours to get a tech tip formatted and ready.

Thanks Mry75, its going to be a great addition

Gram

That's cool man. I finally did get the proper bolt in for the front but have'nt bothered to change it yet. It's still riding great, I love it. I was doing some two-up riding with a girl I know and the pipes did scrape a little bit if I wasn't carefull, but on smooth roads it wasn't as bad as I feared it would be. (She's a 5' 11" readhead... I had armrests and ear warmers! LOL!)

Hello I'm new to all of this but have been on this site several times to add accessories to my Road Star. I'm looking forward to this tech tip as I'm anxious to try it.

JUST WONDERING IF WE ARE GOING TO SEE THE PICS FOR THIS.
I AM VERY INTERESTED.

Did this ever make it to tech tips?